I’m hoping that the collective knowledge of the forum can help me sort out an issue I’m having with a rear hub and dropouts.
So as the title says I’m having a problem with my rear hub slipping in my rear dropouts when cycling, here are the details
I have no reason to think there's anything wrong with the frame or hubs so I'm a little mystified.
- Frame: 2014 Colnago C59, have had for less than 6 months. Slipping has always occurred but I assumed it was a skewers/hub issue.
- Hub: now a brand new Chris King R45, previously had a Tune Mag 170, had the same issue with both. (for completeness the rim is a 28 hole ambrosia excellite and the spokes were Sapim Super CX Rays with the Tune hub, and now Sapim CX Rays with the Chris King hub)
- Skewers: were originally a pair of carbonsports lightweight skewers. I thought these were the issue as they are very light weight, I changed these to a set of Enve Titanium Skewers.
- Issue often occurs when I’m moving off and accelerating or when going up a hill. It’s noticeable as the rim jams against the brake pad and I can feel the resistance.
- The quick release is as tight as I can close it, and more than I believe should be required.
- I’m 72kg and 6ft
- I’ve cleaned the dropouts to remove any dirt or oil.
- Attached is a picture of the dropout which I’m having a problem with.
Does anyone have any thoughts on what could be the cause or what I can eliminate or try next?
Thanks for your help!
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- Shop Owner
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It's a case of the wheel permanently moving in the dropouts and not the rim
just flexing and hitting the brake pads. So yes it's still against the pads when I stop.
Sounds like the next step is to get a rear Campagnolo skewer and give that a try.
The Enve skewers must work for a lot of people so still curious as to why my setup needs so much extra force...
Campag, shimano and other internal cam skewers just slowly degrade over their lifetime, and are easily refreshed with a blast of oil. As an added bonus, lifetime is long enough that you are unlikely to still have them when they eventually die. I've still got a set of xt's in almost daily use from the late 90s. The shaft is corroded to buggery, the nut looks like it's been through a mincer, the handles been ground down on the road a few times. Still works perfectly. Smooth action, lots of end load. I even bodged a headset press out of it a couple of years ago when I was in a hurry........ My expensive titanium skewers of the same vintage (with a brass bush) lasted a season.
Second thing, and I know it sounds contradictory, is that you have more marking on the inside than I would have expected. King rear hubs in particular have pretty aggressive teeth to dig into the stay end or hangar, but if you have clamped the hub so that it causes any grooving or unevenness in the clamping surface, no hub will hold well. This is a very common problem with track stay ends on carbon and alloy frames, where riders have a big hex track nut and can apply far more pressure than one could ever accomplish with a quick release, but it does happen on road hubs as well. I'd like to see an absolutely even pattern of sharp clamp marks on the inside, but I see instead some wear on the forward lip of the dropout and hardly any on the rearward side. Additionally, you just might put a pair of frame alignment tools on the rear end to make sure that stay end is truly parallel to the other one -- unlikely that it's off but this could explain what is happening as well, plus why it's marking like it is.
"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen
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