The sram one may be hard to turn while riding but at least it stays in place.
BTW if you have adjusters that you suspect are moving you can mark them with a sharpie to see. On some you can disassemble and stretch the spring out a little. That can help for a while but the spring will sack again and lose tension.
Eric i too noticed the barrell would unwind itself so once I have set the correct tension I use araldite (epoxy glue) - just one glob to hold it in place. The advantage of this over superglue is it can be easily removed with pliers and is too viscous to flow into the gap between the inner and outer piece of the barrel adjuster. I still wish frames used downtube mounted cable adjusters, inline adjusters are a step backwards.
http://www.jensonusa.com/!i8TK-N3WT4lo! ... yvWqTw_wcB
I doubt you'll find a better functioning one, there's just so much tension on the cable that you can only adjust it when on the small ring.
If the adjuster can be turned under the cable tension needed for the big ring, it won't stay adjusted with the lower tension on the small one,
http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/ ... l-adjuster
http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Inline-Ad ... DB8M9UQDG5
My test is -if you can't turn it with a wet full-finger glove on the numb hand -it is not worth a hoot.
Here is my favorite: http://fairwheelbikes.com/alligator-bar ... -4829.html
Here's the ones I was referring to -
CHA035 & BSA036 are light not too chunky unlike the BSA044.
The spring is quite strong in them but the belt and braces approach is to put a little low strength Loctite on the threads.
It can still be adjusted but stops it loosening on its own.
The SRAM opening are too small for me to use the ferrules that came with the Aican Bunguras, so I run it without, but the housing is smaller than the openings, and the adjuster is not getting a good grip on the housing, so the entire thing turns. I have to measure the ferrules but I know the Aican housing is 3.8mm.
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