anyone use jagwire elite link?
Moderator: robbosmans
I got a full set for my AR1.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118212&start=630#p1058412
I was initially worried about having enough length to complete the build. The rear, chainstay-mounted brake requires a fully-housed run of brake cable inside the frame, which is much more length than the typical two segments of housing from handlebar to frame stop, and from frame stop to rear brake. Turns out the kits come with a fair bit of extra segments, so I had enough for the whole thing. I'm not sure that would be true if I were doing just the brake lines though, since I probably borrowed from the shifter set to make it happen.
Aside from build-specific length issues, it's pretty easy stuff to work with. I didn't try any crazy tight bends, but I can see how it could handle them better than traditional housing. Shift and brake feel leaves nothing to be desired. I don't really notice cable performance when I'm using the bike, which is a good thing; I'd only notice if something were going wrong.
If I'm reading my records correctly, the weight of everything in the packages (brake+shifter) was 225g. A bit under the 118g + 115g weight I've seen quoted elsewhere. I'd estimate I left ~25-50g unused for my build. With traditional rear brake run, that would be an extra ~20g or so saved.
The kit came with two inline barrel adjusters (this style). I used these for the shifter cables, but I'm not satisfied with how well they work. They are pretty stiff and it's difficult/impossible to make adjustments on them while riding. Sram cable pull ratios being what they are, I don't really have to worry about that, but it's still irritating. I cannibalized another inline barrel adjuster (this style) for the rear brake cable, since the direct mount brake has no barrel adjuster. I had to do a little hack by crimping a housing ferrule and wedging it in to the end of the barrel adjuster to keep it from rotating freely around the housing, but I am much happier with how that barrel adjuster works. Not nearly as much friction, so it's easy to twist it with two fingers while riding.
Pay attention to segment diameter when comparing to traditional housing and other brands of links-style housing. The Jagwire is a hair over 5mm at its widest, and that goes for both brake and shifter housing (of course). So be sure that you won't have to put the 5mm housing into a space designed for 4mm shifter housing or something.
Overall, I like the system very much and will probably buy new sets for my other bikes as they come due for a recabling. If you want, it would be easy to take the whole system apart, flush the plastic liner with soap and water, then reinstall everything with some pre-lubed cable and get a like-new system without buying any additional housing ever again.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118212&start=630#p1058412
I was initially worried about having enough length to complete the build. The rear, chainstay-mounted brake requires a fully-housed run of brake cable inside the frame, which is much more length than the typical two segments of housing from handlebar to frame stop, and from frame stop to rear brake. Turns out the kits come with a fair bit of extra segments, so I had enough for the whole thing. I'm not sure that would be true if I were doing just the brake lines though, since I probably borrowed from the shifter set to make it happen.
Aside from build-specific length issues, it's pretty easy stuff to work with. I didn't try any crazy tight bends, but I can see how it could handle them better than traditional housing. Shift and brake feel leaves nothing to be desired. I don't really notice cable performance when I'm using the bike, which is a good thing; I'd only notice if something were going wrong.
If I'm reading my records correctly, the weight of everything in the packages (brake+shifter) was 225g. A bit under the 118g + 115g weight I've seen quoted elsewhere. I'd estimate I left ~25-50g unused for my build. With traditional rear brake run, that would be an extra ~20g or so saved.
The kit came with two inline barrel adjusters (this style). I used these for the shifter cables, but I'm not satisfied with how well they work. They are pretty stiff and it's difficult/impossible to make adjustments on them while riding. Sram cable pull ratios being what they are, I don't really have to worry about that, but it's still irritating. I cannibalized another inline barrel adjuster (this style) for the rear brake cable, since the direct mount brake has no barrel adjuster. I had to do a little hack by crimping a housing ferrule and wedging it in to the end of the barrel adjuster to keep it from rotating freely around the housing, but I am much happier with how that barrel adjuster works. Not nearly as much friction, so it's easy to twist it with two fingers while riding.
Pay attention to segment diameter when comparing to traditional housing and other brands of links-style housing. The Jagwire is a hair over 5mm at its widest, and that goes for both brake and shifter housing (of course). So be sure that you won't have to put the 5mm housing into a space designed for 4mm shifter housing or something.
Overall, I like the system very much and will probably buy new sets for my other bikes as they come due for a recabling. If you want, it would be easy to take the whole system apart, flush the plastic liner with soap and water, then reinstall everything with some pre-lubed cable and get a like-new system without buying any additional housing ever again.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
They provide a short length of traditional housing for under the bar tape, 2x250mm for the shifters, 2x200mm for the brakes. Barrel adjusters are completely optional. They can easily fit between the traditional housing and the rest of the links (different included ferrules go on the front end of the links section depending on if you include the adjuster or not). One could theoretically put an adjuster somewhere in the middle of a links section, but it would require some hacking and scrounging up spare parts that weren't included in the set. Setting up barrel adjusters at the frame downtube stops on a bike with more traditional routing would be pretty easy.
But yes, if you want to connect the links section directly to the traditional section coming out of the bar tape, that's easily done. If I had a rear brake with an integrated barrel adjuster, and I weren't worried about rear derailleur adjustment after a wheel change in a race, I would have done the install without any adjusters.
But yes, if you want to connect the links section directly to the traditional section coming out of the bar tape, that's easily done. If I had a rear brake with an integrated barrel adjuster, and I weren't worried about rear derailleur adjustment after a wheel change in a race, I would have done the install without any adjusters.
I have the cable set as well and have been very happy with it. Both form and function. I personally think it's one of the best looking kits out there. What Krackor said is pretty much spot on. My BMC has external cabling. When I finished that bike I still had enough liner and links leftover to do the shifting on my Caad8. I think I still have a good amount of the liner left for replacement. For me, shifting has improved and feels best it ever did. Traditional housing I used in the past was fine but the action on this system just feels lighter to me. Highly recommend the Jagwire links
Why do they use a bit of conventional cabling instead of the segments under the bar tape?
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
MNX1024 wrote:Looking to recable two bikes, anyone know how the weights compare to Powercordz Swift and Alligator ilink, specifically brakes?
fairwheel has the weights on this link
http://fairwheelbikes.com/power-cordz-s ... -5927.html
Fairwheelbikes have the weight for all the other link housings beside the Jaguar. Originally going to get the swift, but god knows when they'll have it back in stock, so it's either the Jaguar or ilinks with power cords for me. But, not really a fan of the ilink look, but will go with it if it's lighter.
I know, I have a set for one of my bike already. Just that they're out of stock everywhere, and the new bike I've bought nearly a month ago have been sitting there. Still haven't rode it yet because of missing parts, the housing is one of them...... Not sure I want to wait till god knows when they'll be in stock. If the Jaguar have a similar weight, don't mind getting that and use powercordz cable.
-
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
- Location: France
Hello,
Somebody already tried to put directly links under the bar tape ? Is there a problem if I do it ?
I would like to switch to Elite Link for my mechanical disc brake and even the compressionless housing from Jagwire feel little bit spongy.
Thanks
Somebody already tried to put directly links under the bar tape ? Is there a problem if I do it ?
I would like to switch to Elite Link for my mechanical disc brake and even the compressionless housing from Jagwire feel little bit spongy.
Thanks
jeanjacques wrote:Hello,
Somebody already tried to put directly links under the bar tape ? Is there a problem if I do it ?
I would like to switch to Elite Link for my mechanical disc brake and even the compressionless housing from Jagwire feel little bit spongy.
Thanks
i made a thread about it the other day - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=148264
no problems for me with running the links under the tape.
-
- Posts: 378
- Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
- Location: France
Perfect, thank you very much ! The other good news it's I can buy the MTB version, little bit cheaper and more length (just less liner but it's very cheap on ebay).
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com