Why not measure to determine the precise width of your cranks as installed? If you still have the old crank, measure that one, too.
Do your pedals require spacers to fit flush to the Zed (or your old unit)?
I guess it goes without saying that you didn't change crank length...? The Zed has a few user-configurable lengths, so it's not a given that yours is set to the length you prefer. That could create the impression of a wider Q if set incorrectly.
I do not use any spacers on the pedal-axels on my previous Rotor cranks. I have now tired to move the cleats on mye shoes a little bit so the shoes now are positioned more close to the cranks. Feels more alike now. It would just be nice to know the accurate difference between to two cranksets.
Since the cranks are presumably optimized for a LOOK frame, I'd not be surprised if their Q factor was a little less than an aftermarket crank that has to be able to work with a wide variety of frames.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
bikerjulio wrote:With a crank lining up with the seat tube, measure from the center of the seat tube to the outside edge of the crank. Tape measure or steel rule. Multiply the result by 2.
Splitting hairs here, but this assumes that the cranks are symmetrical which may not be the case.
Check each side individually and add the measurements together.
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