Campagnolo discs?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Guinea
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:18 pm

by Guinea

I'm toying with the idea of a winter commuter build. I have a 33 mile daily commute so don't want to ride an old clunker, but neither do I want to run Super Record on gritted roads.

One option I've been thinking about is a disc brake equipped bike. There are lots of shimano and SRAM options, but I've failed when searching for Campagnolo compatible solutions. As my other two bikes and 10 wheels are campag, I don't want to change groupsets.

I know Campagnolo are working on disc brakes, but they aren't going to be ready for a couple of years, so is there a tried and tested solution using other mechanical discs with 11 speed shifters?

solarider
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:08 pm

by solarider

I am using Avid BB7 SL with Super Record EPS on my cross bike very successfully.

bikewithnoname
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: UK

by bikewithnoname

Any generic cable operated disk will work, obviously sram/shimano ones are "designed" for thier lever pull ratio, but with a disk brake you don't actually need much of a cable pull to operate successfully.

And no Campag don't make them, but Avid and Hayes do, also I think Tektro, TRP and Ashima might have some.
"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities." Oscar Wilde

Pegoretti Responsorium, Parlee Z5i, Donhou Commuter, 1946 MacLeans Featherweight L'Eroica!, 2x MTB 'dales

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ianSWBB
Shop Wrench
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by ianSWBB

As stated above, Avid BB7 will work with Campag Shifters - best value for money vs performance option at the moment!

Geoff
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Location: Canada

by Geoff

+1. I run Campagnolo for my MTB and use the Avid BB7's. Works great.

XCProMD
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 10:25 am
Location: Cantabria

by XCProMD

Campagnolo with TRP Hy-Rd here and loving it.

Guinea
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:18 pm

by Guinea

Good stuff, I'm glad it's doable and there are happy customers.

In terms of wheels, what rear hubs are worth looking at?

solarider
Posts: 492
Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:08 pm

by solarider

I am running Chris King R45 disc hubs with Campagnolo free hub, but DT are also worth considering.

Also of note is that with DT you could do a centre lock/Campagnolo combination, which although unusual might give a best of all worlds solution as (IMHO) centre lock has the edge on 6 bolt in terms of weight, stiffness and ease of use, and centre lock Shimano rotors will work with other brakes.

Guinea
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:18 pm

by Guinea

Just to resurrect this thread.

I went with Chris King hubs and TRP HY/RD callipers.

It's not proving to be a great combination. There is far to much lever throw when set up to spec. It means that even when the brake lever is pulled hard against the bar I'm still looking for more power.

Has anyone got any tips on either set up, or a set of callipers that will stop me having to pull the lever right to the bar?

manninen
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:02 am

by manninen

^i had hy/rd, i bled and did everything i could. didn´t got free movement away. best was 160mm->203mm disc change but now running R785 shimanos. hy/rd 2/5

i really wish campagnolo makes eps hydraulic levers, i like campa ergonomics

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Miller
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

Guinea wrote:Just to resurrect this thread.

I went with Chris King hubs and TRP HY/RD callipers.

It's not proving to be a great combination. There is far to much lever throw when set up to spec. It means that even when the brake lever is pulled hard against the bar I'm still looking for more power.

Has anyone got any tips on either set up, or a set of callipers that will stop me having to pull the lever right to the bar?


I have Campag ergos with HY/DRs and have them working quite well. Yes there is a cable pull issue but I have found a workaround. With these brakes you have to clamp the inner cable with the little brake swingarm locked in position. The trick is that when you do this, have the brake release button on the ergo lever set to the brake-open position. When you have clamped the brake inner at the brake, release the brake swingarm then reset the ergo button to brake-closed. This partially pulls in the disc brake pads but not enough to cause rubbing on the disc. Now you should have enough brake power to not have to squeeze the levers to the bar.

The other aspect I have found is that the brakes are sensitive to the housing compressibility. I started with generic housing then upgraded it to Goodridge which is quite heavy duty. This really improved the braking.

There's more about this on p2 of the build thread I did for the disc bike.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=119840&start=15

bombertodd
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by bombertodd

I would also try compressionless brake housing if you haven't. It might be enough to make the brakes work.

Jagwire makes compressionless housing. Not sure who else makes it.
http://jagwire.com/products/v/road_pro

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ferrarista
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Location: Canada

by ferrarista

Campy are developing hydraulic brakes combined with EPS right now. Maybe its out next year if everything goes well.
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Guinea
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Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:18 pm

by Guinea

Thanks for the replies folks.

Miller, I'm going to try the method you suggested. However, in practice, I think your method is still slightly dodgy as the cable won't release fully on every pull. I can't think why TRP stipulate this should happen though, so I hope it's OK. If that makes enough of an improvement then I'll maybe try the housing too.

Otherwise, I may put the chorus groupset on my spare bike to replace the 10sp on it and go with Shimano R785/Di2. Unless of course anyone knows another disc calliper that has no throw?

mattr
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Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

Guinea wrote:However, in practice, I think your method is still slightly dodgy as the cable won't release fully on every pull. I can't think why TRP stipulate this should happen though, so I hope it's OK.
Its to reset/refill/top up the hydraulic circuit.
It allows for wear of the pads and heating of the fluid. Not having the piston go back past the port on the actuation side of the unit will lead to (eventually) the brake losing all power.

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