I hope the picture is clear enough.
Of course, it is easier to just run down to the LBS and get a new set. But my fixes are based on having to do this stuff on the road for athletes and we don't always have extras of things on hand or we run out of them.
Hope it helps.
It seems like the nub in question is actually recessed below the surface of the cleat that would come in contact with the ground during walking.
I use the "cafe covers" if I am going to walk on anything that isn't flat ; maybe that has helped.
But I also note that the circlip has an inward curve there that would shear off that nub if the inward rotation adjustment screw (the front one in your photo) does not stop it prior to touching the nub. I have my inward rotation limited a little so the circlip does not even come close to the nub.
Speedplay recommends that you not back the adjustment screws out more than flush with the plastic, which is the way I have my outer rotation screw adjusted (maximum float in that direction) That allows the circlip to just barely touch the other nub at the rear of the cleat. My rear nub is not sheared off either, but the rear nub is a little wider and stronger.
Next time, when setting up the cleats, try making sure the front (inward rotation) adjustment screw is inserted at least far enough so that the bump in the circlip just barely touches the nub in question, but does not put any shearing force on it.
On the other hand, maybe that nub doesn't make any difference either way, as others have reported. In which case, just don't worry about it. I can't help but feel squeemish about plastic parts shearing off though.
In fact, check out this photo from the Competitive Cyclist web review of the cleats: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/image ... dplay1.jpg
It is clearly missing on theirs also.
Parlee Z5 XL (6055g/13.32lbs) Trek Madone 5.9 (7052-7500g)Jonesman Columbus Spirit (8680g)
Chase your dreams - it's only impossible until it's done
Ozrider wrote:Get yourself some Keep On Kovers, they save your Speedplay cleats from wear and tear. The new Z version lasts a lot longer. They have kept my cleats looking nearly new after a season of crit racing.
I also use them since the begining. They should come by default with the zero pedals.
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