Weight Weenies

I have a set of Hutchinson RT1 carbon tubeless wheels (mfg by Corima) with a shimano 10 speed cassette body.




I converted to 11speed Di2 & still want to use these wheels. I contacted Corima & they don’t offer an 11 speed cassette body for these hubs.

With access to a machine shop I was able to convert them, here’s how

Notes of interest……….

10 speed cassette body has a taller (deeper) spline on the inner 8 cogs.




The 11 speed cassette has uniform (short) splines & only fits over the shorter splines. It physically would not fit regardless of the width of the addition of the 11th cog.

The first step was to even out the splines on the cassette body. Since it’s aluminum it’s fairly straight forward to turn it on a lathe. Now the 11 speed cogs fit all the way onto the cassette body.

Next I measured the distance from the cassette lock ring to the axle lock nut to gauge the distance needed to clear the dropout. I used a Shimano WH-9000 C24 TL to gauge all the necessary measurements

Here’s the tricky part...... once done the cassette is no longer compatible with any other wheel set.

I machined the flange on the cassette spider of the last (biggest) cog to sit further on to the cassette body. This allows all 11 cogs to fit.



There was ample clearance with the spokes & no interference with the hub. I can’t say if this will work on all hubs out there.

I now have an 11 speed carbon tubeless wheel set.

I can swap between wheels & (other than brake pad change) it doesn’t require any derailleur adjustment.

Nice work!

Could have just gotten a Campy 11 freehub though and ran a Campy 11 cassette.

But nice work none the less!

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nice job. lots of work, but i understand your desire to keep your wheelset. I'm in the same boat, but i contacted Reynolds for my DV3K's, and they confirmed that they do make an 11-speed freehub for 2011 and later DV3k's, Assaults, Attacks and Strikes. Best of all, no redish is required for the wheel to work.

You could use that cassette on a real 11sp hub by adding spacers.

How much did you take off the back of the cassette?

eric wrote:You could use that cassette on a real 11sp hub by adding spacers.

How much did you take off the back of the cassette?

True, I machined off approximately 1mm from the back of the spider.

With my old 7900 10 speed cassette I added a 1mm spacer to this hub so I could swap between wheels without trimming the rear derailleur.

So you are correct I could just add a spacer & use them on 11 speed hubs.

btompkins0112 wrote:Nice work!

Could have just gotten a Campy 11 freehub though and ran a Campy 11 cassette.

But nice work none the less!

In 2009 Corima only offered Campy 10 or Shimano/Sram 10 speed cassette body for these hubs. The current generation Corima hubs are 11 speed compatible.

Ah! Gotcha.....

sled driver wrote:10 speed cassette body has a taller (deeper) spline on the inner 8 cogs.

Eh?

sled driver wrote:The 11 speed cassette has uniform (short) splines & only fits over the shorter splines. It physically would not fit regardless of the width of the addition of the 11th cog.

Eh?

sled driver wrote:The first step was to even out the splines on the cassette body. Since it’s aluminum it’s fairly straight forward to turn it on a lathe. Now the 11 speed cogs fit all the way onto the cassette body.

Eh?

sled driver wrote:Here’s the tricky part...... once done the cassette is no longer compatible with any other wheel set.

I machined the flange on the cassette spider of the last (biggest) cog to sit further on to the cassette body. This allows all 11 cogs to fit.

Haha, what? So you machined BOTH parts, effectively knackering both, when you could have just machined the freebody.

It sounds like you only wanted to use the lathe. Should have put a 9 speed freehub body on there then milled it to take the 11spd cassette.

OwenJames wrote: you could have just machined the freebody.

How would you machine the freehub to increase the depth? You have to machine the inner part of the splines so the cassette will seat all the way.
I can't think of way to machine down in there without cutting farther into the flange than the amount required for the 11sp cassette.

Great work. If people think you're "ruining" parts then pffffft. Better to machine a freewheel body than ditch a whole wheel set you like.
I like it.

OwenJames wrote:
Haha, what? So you machined BOTH parts, effectively knackering both, when you could have just machined the freebody.

I could not machine the grooves any deeper in the cassette body. The 1st picture of the hub shows the actual cassette body. The 2nd pic was taken off the web to emphasize the step in the splines on another type cassette body.

While I wanted to upgrade to 11 speed, I was not to happy with the fact all my wheels were now obsolete I could purchase (& did) a 11 speed Dura Ace C 24 Tubeless wheelset, no one made a 11 speed all carbon 50mm Tubeless wheelset.

Now you need a machinist to change/replace cassettes.

This is where Campag triumphs.

I'm interested in this solution, but a little confused. When you say you machined 1mm of material off the inside of the last sprocket on the rear cassette, are you talking about Dura Ace and Ultegra that have composite carriers? Would it be possible to machine the same amount of material off a Sram 11 speed cassette to get the same result? I have two sets of Lightweight Gen 1 Shimano spec wheel sets that I'd love to use 11 speed with and this option sounds promising as long as once machined the cassette does not foul the spokes?

I think it'd be a bad idea to take 1mm off the back of a Red cassete. That aluminium sheet pressed in to the back of the cassette is not very thick.
Their lower range cassettes have carriers like Shimano which would have more room for material removal.

Don't Lightweights use someone else's hub parts, like DT?

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