Felt 2014 AR1

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liketoride
Posts: 408
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:05 am

by liketoride

mize great for you getting the new bike, it looks great. i just got the zipp blacks but cant put them on my bike for another 2 months.

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

In truth, I should take those Enves off and throw my alloy training wheels (also powertap) on until March, but I was hoping to get at least one ride on the Enves before swapping out brake pads, etc.

by Weenie


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Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

Nosuga wrote:I have had mine for about 2 weeks. It tipped the scales at 15.14 lbs. minus the bag.

Image


I notice you're not using the seatpost strip/plug...any reason why not?
Love your weather :(

mitchgixer6
Posts: 225
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm

by mitchgixer6

Hope you don't mind me saying Nosuga, but I reckon your chain is slightly too long. In the gear pictured the rear deraillieur should be sitting at a bigger angle. According to Shimano the jockey wheels should be 90 degrees to the ground whilst in the big ring up front and smallest cog at rear. Looks like yours is close to this in a much smaller gear.

Would be an easy way to drop some weight by cutting the chain down a bit! :-)

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

Totally OT but this is aggravating. Was getting some mean valve stem rattle on the rear Enve so I decided to wrap it with some electrical tape (quick fix as heat shrink works better), but the valve stem nuts are cranked on past the threads (or they're cross-threaded) so there's no way to remove easily. Glad I'm not out on the road somewhere with a flat. I guess I should have specifically said "no nuts please."

emartin
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

by emartin

Hi,
I just received reply from Tektro about my clearance issue with Shimano direct mount and Stages powermeter. I initially wanted the T740 with a simple design:
Image

But Tektro suggest the T750 with a more complex design and ease of adjustment:
Image

Would both do the job? I had a similar to the T750 rear brake on my Giant Trinity and was not a fan of the complexity and adjustment. Would prefer the T740 if it fit and work good.

Thanks

SuperDave
in the industry
Posts: 534
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:57 am
Location: San Juan Bautista, CA
Contact:

by SuperDave

emartin wrote:Hi,
I just received reply from Tektro about my clearance issue with Shimano direct mount and Stages powermeter. I initially wanted the T740 with a simple design but Tektro suggest the T750 with a more complex design and ease of adjustment:
Image
Would both do the job? I had a similar to the T750 rear brake on my Giant Trinity and was not a fan of the complexity and adjustment. Would prefer the T740 if it fit and work good.
Thanks


You need the T750. Both designs are similar actually. The T740 will hit the stages PM.

-Dave

emartin
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

by emartin

SuperDave wrote:
emartin wrote:Hi,
I just received reply from Tektro about my clearance issue with Shimano direct mount and Stages powermeter. I initially wanted the T740 with a simple design but Tektro suggest the T750 with a more complex design and ease of adjustment:
Image
Would both do the job? I had a similar to the T750 rear brake on my Giant Trinity and was not a fan of the complexity and adjustment. Would prefer the T740 if it fit and work good.
Thanks


You need the T750. Both designs are similar actually. The T740 will hit the stages PM.

-Dave

Thanks Dave, how's the power and modulation with this brake? I'm doing alot of criterium so good braking is crucial. Alot cheaper than the Eebrake if it does the job.

SuperDave
in the industry
Posts: 534
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:57 am
Location: San Juan Bautista, CA
Contact:

by SuperDave

emartin wrote:
SuperDave wrote:
emartin wrote:Hi,
I just received reply from Tektro about my clearance issue with Shimano direct mount and Stages powermeter. I initially wanted the T740 with a simple design but Tektro suggest the T750 with a more complex design and ease of adjustment:
Image
Would both do the job? I had a similar to the T750 rear brake on my Giant Trinity and was not a fan of the complexity and adjustment. Would prefer the T740 if it fit and work good.
Thanks


You need the T750. Both designs are similar actually. The T740 will hit the stages PM.

-Dave

Thanks Dave, how's the power and modulation with this brake? I'm doing alot of criterium so good braking is crucial. Alot cheaper than the Eebrake if it does the job.


I've been using it for the last few months and I've been pleased with the performance. I had it set up with EPS initially and then with Shimano 9070. The Shimano lever feel is much softer but the power is just fine. Using compressionless aluminum segmented housing from Jagwire has helped firm up the lever feel as the full continuous housing run through the frame will compress much more than the front brake which can cause an imbalanced feel.

As with most things, proper set up yields proper results.

-SD
Last edited by SuperDave on Tue Feb 04, 2014 2:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

mitchgixer6
Posts: 225
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm

by mitchgixer6

Oh, you've raised another question from me Dave. Do you need to run full outer cables all the way through the frame for gears and rear brake?

SuperDave
in the industry
Posts: 534
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:57 am
Location: San Juan Bautista, CA
Contact:

by SuperDave

mitchgixer6 wrote:Oh, you've raised another question from me Dave. Do you need to run full outer cables all the way through the frame for gears and rear brake?


The rear brake uses continuous housing because of the top tube entry design.
The mechanical shifting wires use cable stops at the downtube and rear dropout and bare wire inside the frame.

-SD

mitchgixer6
Posts: 225
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm

by mitchgixer6

Thanks Dave. Guess I better order up some extra brake cable housing! Any of the guys that have built their bikes already got some information on what length I'll need?

Thanks

Krackor
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm

by Krackor

Dave, how do you manage the aluminum housing inside the frame? It doesn't seem as simple as threading in a solid piece of traditional housing through. Is there any risk of abrasion of the aluminum links against the inside walls of the frame?

I've already got my Jagwire Links and AR1 frameset on the way, so I may need to adjust my plans now that I hear it's a continuous run to the rear brake.

SuperDave
in the industry
Posts: 534
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:57 am
Location: San Juan Bautista, CA
Contact:

by SuperDave

mitchgixer6 wrote:Thanks Dave. Guess I better order up some extra brake cable housing! Any of the guys that have built their bikes already got some information on what length I'll need?

Thanks


I'll try to get some photos loaded to help illustrate how I've done it.

-SD

Krackor
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm

by Krackor

While you're at it can you give your best estimate how much total housing length you use for your brake cables? I'd rather order any necessary extra length sooner rather than later if possible.

edit: My frame came in today, so I measured the cable run myself. It should be approximately an extra 600mm cable run inside the frame for the rear brake cable housing. My best estimate is about 1250mm for the entire rear brake run. Front brake run is approximately 500mm. Jagwire Elite Links comes with 1040mm of links, plus 600mm of CGX housing (which will be cut to about 200mm on each side to run under the bar tape). That gives me a total working length of 1440mm of housing, which leaves me about 300mm short of a complete housing set.

I'm going to contact Jagwire to see if they have some spare links I can purchase, and hopefully an extra-long liner to run the full rear brake length.

edit2: And now that I read the descriptions more carefully, it looks like I may not need to order extra parts after all. The brake and shifter sets together look like they come with 2700mm total length in links, which is more than the 2300mm I'll need. The shifter set comes with a couple unnecessarily long 1430mm liners, one of which I can use for the rear brake run. One of the spare liners from the brake kit can substitute inside the shifter housing.

by Weenie


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