Weight Weenies

lippythelion wrote:Do the pedals spin freely on the axles? I sold my Keo2 Max Carbon because the pedals didn't spin very well & didn't 'fall' to the same position when I unclipped.
Nice bike btw

I have a pair of Keo 2 Max Carbon's that spin freely, and a pair that do not. I have also tried the old, and new version of the Keo Blades. Both did not spin freely. However, I have a riding buddy that has the new ones and they do spin freely.

Seems hit or miss with Look. I went to PD-9000 and will not (ever) look back.

ave wrote:Do they stay in this position? Or was this just setup like this for the photo?

I think they just set it up like that for the photo too highlight the color of the carbon blade that seems not to be the market, atm.

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just received mine. excited. placed on scale left was 92g right 108. on closer inspection i noticed the axle hex was different. someone at look installed a steel axle on the ti labeled pedal.
very annoyed. quality control is slipping.. sending them back for a new set ;(((

spartan wrote:just received mine. excited. placed on scale left was 92g right 108. on closer inspection i noticed the axle hex was different. someone at look installed a steel axle on the ti labeled pedal.
very annoyed. quality control is slipping.. sending them back for a new set ;(((

Why do I get this horrible feeling that another excited cyclist has opened a box just like you.

Seriously, what a scam!

Switch to PD-9000s and don't look back (or 7900s, they are basically the same pedal).

Cuki wrote:Why do I get this horrible feeling that another excited cyclist has opened a box just like you.

What he said.

I've had mine for about two weeks now. IMO they look nicer than the first gen blades. Still, I'm not digging the clipping mechanism. With the old pedals, I could scrape my shoes down the front edge of the pedals until the cleat caught on the lip, then I'd put downward pressure until the cleat latched. That doesn't work with these pedals. They are shaped more like a cup, and you have to drop the cleat into that cup before you can clip in. And since the pedal doesn't rotate automatically into position, I spend a bit of time looking down to try to align stuff before clicking in.

It feels more like clipping into speedplays -- with the shoe coming straight down into the cleat before engaging, as opposed to the rasping motion I'm used to. There's obviously some muscle-memory issues at play, and so I may get used to it after a few more kms, but right now it's annoying me. I liked Keos because of the engagement mechanism, and that has now changed.

Don't look to these for weight savings either. Mine saved me 2 grams over my 1st gen blades. But the construction seems far more robust. I had to upgrade because a chunk of pedal broke off my last set (on the back side). They still seemed to work fine, but when it comes to contact points, I always feel better safe than sorry.

kos wrote: I liked Keos because of the engagement mechanism, and that has now changed.

interesting. i've tried shimano, look, and speedplay. the speedplays were by far the easiest to engage- as far as quickness and ease, speedplays are 2 steps ahead in that department. fwiw, i ride look pedals.

Can anyone make a comparison of release tensions on speedplay zeroes and/or the release settings on Dura Ace 7900/9000 to the 12-16-20 Nm specs on Looks ?

Anyone knows who carries the Blade 2 Ti in the US? They all seem to have them on back order.

Thanks!

Rick wrote:Can anyone make a comparison of release tensions on speedplay zeroes and/or the release settings on Dura Ace 7900/9000 to the 12-16-20 Nm specs on Looks ?

I can't compare since I don't have DA, but the 12 is pretty light. Just slight pressure and "click!" Nice and easy. I like it.

I've never had release problems. But I'm just 65k/144lbs, and not pushing crazy watts. So I don't know what it might be like for someone strong.

I've ridden the 12 Nm Keo Blade v1 for 1.5 years. I'm 170# and focus on sprints in my races, ~1300W. I haven't had any trouble with unintentional unclips. However, before riding these pedals, I used Speedplay LightAction and then Bebop after that, both of which were very floaty and required extremely little unclip pressure. I had a couple instances of unintentional unclip on the Bebop (can't remember if the Speedplays also gave me trouble, but they might have), so I learned quickly to deliberately keep my ankles centered. I may have better proprioceptive discipline than average, and I can't comment on how the 12 Nm Blade v1 would feel for someone without practice keeping the foot centered.

Anyway, I've never felt the urge to change to 16 Nm, and when I saw the new Blade v2 was offering 20 Nm I was a little surprised that anyone would need so much.

Have spontaneously unclipped whilst sprinting on the 12NM v1 blades so have just fitted 16NM v2s to my best bike. Just waiting for dry clean roads to try them!

I use the 16nm ones for the sharp crack when I clip in telling everyone I meant business. 20nm should sound even better so that's what I'm going for haha.

Seriously it feels good to feel secure in it.

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