Any ideas on this greatly appreciated, Im at the end of my tether!
So Ive got a full DA9000 mechanical groupset,only thing non standard is a Hope Ceramic BB which Im told should be fine.
I work in the trade so our workshop mechanic has set this up AND Shimano tech took a look and told me everything was ok AND in the work stand it shifts and works like a charm.
The problem is when I get out and ride it the front mech rubs on the large chain ring in a 2 or 3 gears, somewhere in the middle of the block and it doesnt do it in the workstand. The middle ring works perfectly and always has done.
Ive got a barrel adjuster fitted which Im told is the way forward (read on this forum)even though the Shimano guys(I saw them at an event) told me to remove it.
I can cure the problem while riding by pushing the shifter a little more to move the mech out a little but obviously I dont want to ride along all day doing this!
Im happy to put a DA 9000 BB in if needed.
Limit screws seem fine and I dont think it can be bent. The cable tension obviously is potentially the issue but 2 "good" mechanics have looked at it - half the problem is that its only me who has felt the rubbing because in the workstand its ok!
I think Ill change the BB just to be sure. The Shimano guy said ditch the adjuster barrel, but looking online it seems to be the vital bit to getting the thing adjusted!
Shimano Dura-Ace 9000
Mavic Cosmic SLE 2013
How fast are you going when in those gears? what is your cadence? Even perfectly set up, at lower cadence under high torque, you will likely be able to make the chain rub the front derailleur.
Assuming that is not the issue, and assuming you cannot simply increase cable tension and unscrew the high limit slightly, a couple things come to mind.
First is to make sure the fd is at the right height. The outer cage plate should be between 1-3mm above the outer ring teeth. I personally aim for 1.5mm. Then make sure the derailleur cage angle is truly parallel to the large ring. Shimano shows a good method for this: chain off, place a 5mm Allen wrench along the right side of the large chainring's teeth. The wrench should only sit on the outermost part of the ring. Adjust the LOW limit screw until the right side of the fd outer cage just barely grazes the wrench. Turn the crank fore n aft to check that this measured clearance is uniform from the front of the fd cage to the rear.
Lastly, there are two correct ways to route the cable around the pinch bolt and a number of incorrect ways. If yours is correct, the cable passes UNDER the bolt itself. Almost all other derailleurs require the opposite. With respect to the two correct options, one choice allows the derailleur to move farther for a given cable pull. If yours is not this way, and Shimano's guide tool is vague about which choice is for you, it is possible that the mechanics had "no choice" but to set the high limit screw a bit tight. Their other option would have been for them to allow a lot more rubbing in your small ring/easiest cog. Switching cable anchor points would eliminate this compromise.
I don't know why any Shimano tech would recommend to ditch the barrel adjuster. I cannot believe an actual Shimano tech guy would do that, most I've met are pretty sharp. A Shimano SALES rep, sure.
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4 Beta
The pinch bolt cable routing is easy to get wrong.
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