And first thing I notice when I install them is the rear wheel is nowhere near being centered in my Cervelo RS frame, I've got like 2mm of clearance between the seatstays and chainstays on the left side of the frame, I can still ride on them just fine as there's no possibility of rubbing the frame, but it's really bothering the hell out of me that is not seating properly.
I haven't gone to the bike shop and measure the dish on the wheel, I'd hate to think that Reynolds would build a wheel that off-centered. The other though it might be that it has the wrong end caps on the hub and it's what's 'pushing' the damn thing to the left. I've emailed Reynolds twice like two weeks ago and haven't heard a thing from them. (Deleted my unfair rant towards Reynolds Cycling)
The next step is to make sure your wheel is dished correctly. New wheels can be out of dish for a variety of reasons. The most common one is when a wheel is switched from campy to shimano or vise versa. Thankfully, the new 11 speed shimano should solve this issue.
Use a dishing tool to make certain your wheel is dished correctly. No dishing tool you say? There are ways around that as well. Set the wheel on two stacks of books or magazines or anything else that you can get it to sit on. measure the distance from the floor to the point where the dropout rests against the frame. (not the end of the axle) Flip the wheel over and measure again. If those two distances aren't identical. Your wheel isn't dished. Do this with your tire at full pressure though. Your dish could be very different with or without air in your tires. If you've determined that your wheel isn't dished correctly. Have someone who understands wheel tension dish it for you (if you don't know how to do it yourself)
It was easy to dish an old school 36, 32 or 28 hole wheel. The newer ones with higher spoke tensions are abit tougher to get right.
Oh,, and make sure there isn't any debris in the dropouts.lol
I will check with a different skewer, haven't had a problem with my ZIPP skewers on two different wheelsets, but hey it's worth a try.
Great info and suggestions there, I will check the dish the way you described in your post. It's the first rear wheel I install in this frame with this problem. I will dismount the tire and check if the wheel is centered as well, thanks a lot for your help guys.
It goes through all the gears, but when I installed the wheel I had to readjust and index the crap out of the RD, my previous wheel was not that far from the dropout, that's why I'm scratching my head over the end-caps on the hub.
I did measure the wheel dish with the advice that boolinwall posted, and sure enough with the tire at 100 PSI the dish is 5 mm off, so I don't know what the hell I will do to fix it. I might as well order the right parts for Shimano-SRAM 11 speed to sort of 'future-proof' the wheel and then see where I end up, then correct the dish as needed.
In the mean time it sucks that I can't try a 25 mm tire there.
Remove the right end cap and see if there's a spacer between it and the axle. If so, you might be able to swap that spacer to the non drive side. This needs to be done (plus an internal spacer switch) to switch HED hubs around.
It's the same hubset as the 2012 Attack wheelset, I guess I should look around in Youtube as well......
Thanks for all the answers and help, I really really appreciate it.
As others suggested, try these easy things first. Different wheels, different skewers.
Then, you might just have a rear dropout alignment issue from the factory/carbon mold or the milling of the dropout/finishing stages.
The wheel is definitely 5 mm out of dish, the RD hanger is not loose or anything out of spec with the frame. I installed a different rear wheel and it sits just fine. I think something funny is going on with the end-caps of this hub like someone mentioned, this could have been a Campy wheel that they retrofitted for Shimano and installed the wrong parts.
If you look at the pics the cassette is way too far from the drop-out, doesn't look normal at all. I also measured the hub with a digital caliper and it does measure 130mm, so the wheel is not forcing anything in the dropouts.
I already sourced the right part numbers to get the Shimano 11 speed freewheel, the spacer and the right end-cap to run a 10 speed cassette. After I get those parts and install them I will not know, re-dishing the wheel is the last option I want to have to take.
I'll report back once I get those parts and install them. It sucks that Reynolds website is not up to date with their technical help info though.
Thanks for all the help guys.
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You never did tell us how you "got hold" of this wheelset. Perhaps that is information of some relevance to the discussion.bicicleta wrote:So I recently got a hold of this 2013 Reynolds Solace wheelset, just so I could scratch my itch for trying tubeless. ... I'd hate to think that Reynolds would build a wheel that off-centered. ... I've emailed Reynolds twice like two weeks ago and haven't heard a thing from them, so maybe their customer service is as shity as their wheel build.
I still find it strange that the only retail places I can find this wheelset online has been the UK, so who knows when they will appear for sale in NA.
http://shop.upgradebikes.co.uk/Catalogu ... lds-Solace
I will try calling them directly and will try to buy the different end-caps for the hub and the right freewheel body for Shimano 11.
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