Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread
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- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
My velobuild 099 was delivered today.
It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.
I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.
Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237
Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some tuning it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.
Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.
Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.
I'll update as I go.
It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.
I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.
Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237
Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some tuning it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.
Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.
Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.
I'll update as I go.
Last edited by Steve Curtis on Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Omg picture please!Steve Curtis wrote:My velobuild 099 was delivered today.
It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.
I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.
Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237
Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some thing it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.
Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.
Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.
I'll update as I go.
It's the VBR-099 right?
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I bought two frames, which safed me shipping costs per frame. Total cost for this frame, handlebar, thru axles, headset, shipping to germany, paypal fee was 640$.
The frame came in raw finish. I used black 2K carbon primer (spray max), then after sanding i used black spray paint (montanablack). The glitter is dupli color ultra miracle. I coated the hole frame with spray max high gloss 2K clear coat and afterwards the rear triangle with the matte one.
Unfortunately, i got a bit of orange peel in some parts. I had to spray outside and i think the temperature was not ideal. Masking and sanding was a pain in the a*** aswell. But i like how it came out, since this was my first paint job.
I got the velobduild 066 disc running 32mm wide light bicycle wheels and 28mm tires which plump up to 30-31mm.
Here is the clearance
https://i.imgur.com/aLjdgG0.jpeg
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- Posts: 1314
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
Dunno why you'd want a picture of a black frame, but here you go.Jimin wrote: ↑Wed Jul 14, 2021 8:26 pmOmg picture please!Steve Curtis wrote:My velobuild 099 was delivered today.
It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.
I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.
Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237
Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some thing it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.
Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.
Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.
I'll update as I go.
It's the VBR-099 right?
Skickat från min SM-N986B via Tapatalk
Hi all,
Thinking of a purchasing an open mold frame and am in search of some particular features. First of all, I would like a BB386 Evo BB shell. I have a Praxis Zayante crankset that I would like to fit and even though they have a BB86 bb available, hambini suggests it's not advisable due to the smaller bearings required to fit it into a 42mm shell. I would also like disc brakes as I don't want to use carbon rims brakes.
Anyways, in my research I have come across a Dengfu R12, Tantan TT-X3, and Velobuild V-BR-089/086D. Dengfu are asking $550 and the other ones are around $290. So I'm a bit stuck. Anyone with any opinions on which one I should get? Is Dengfu "worth" the extra money as it's almost twice as much. Also if anyone knows of any alternatives, I'm also open to those.
Thanks!
Thinking of a purchasing an open mold frame and am in search of some particular features. First of all, I would like a BB386 Evo BB shell. I have a Praxis Zayante crankset that I would like to fit and even though they have a BB86 bb available, hambini suggests it's not advisable due to the smaller bearings required to fit it into a 42mm shell. I would also like disc brakes as I don't want to use carbon rims brakes.
Anyways, in my research I have come across a Dengfu R12, Tantan TT-X3, and Velobuild V-BR-089/086D. Dengfu are asking $550 and the other ones are around $290. So I'm a bit stuck. Anyone with any opinions on which one I should get? Is Dengfu "worth" the extra money as it's almost twice as much. Also if anyone knows of any alternatives, I'm also open to those.
Thanks!
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- Posts: 1314
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
As a follow up to this I wanted to add an update with some positives and negatives.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:25 pmMy velobuild 099 was delivered today.
It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.
I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.
Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237
Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some tuning it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.
Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.
Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.
I'll update as I go.
It's a cheap frame so I'm not too bothered but wanted to flag these points in case someone is considering picking one up.
Trimmed fork weight is 393g
-29g
Trimmed and tuned seatpost is 190g
-47g
So that's a nice easy win.
The paint quality is actually really nice. Probably better than the cervelos I have.
I'll see how it's lasts when it's used. I'll be ceramic coating it so that will help.
1st problem.
The headset cap was sitting on the frame preventing the steering from turning as the top bearing sat too deeply into the frame.
It rubbed in a few spots so I took off the paint ( which will be covered by the cap ) but that wasn't enough.
Next step was to sand the cap to make it sit a little higher.
Not a big problem and now fixed.
I can't get hold of the bits I want to use so I'll get it up and running with some stuff I have in the parts bin.
I'll used Juin f1 calipers for now but the rear does sit super close to the rear stay.
Not a problem but an observation.
The headset spacers are solid so you need to pass the cables though them.
This is a pain if you want to raise or lower the hight when use in hydraulic brakes. I'm fortunate that I'll use the Juin f1 to confirm the hight ready for when my hydraulic groupset becomes available.
I think I could get away with cutting the spacer at the front as it's not going to pop out.
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Nice update! Few questions for you
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE
On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE
On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
After few months and +2500 km here is my update about LTK 268 frame. Very satisfied with the frame and there is not any quality issue during building and cycling.
Frame came in size XL ( i am 192cm with 95cm inseam ), ordered raw carbon so it was painted localy at my friend workshop. He is proffesional car painter.
Bike is Ultegra Di2 with FSA crankset and Falcon 60mm wheelset. There is not original headset and hanlebar-stem combo. I opted for Deda Vinci headset and stem-handlebar ( full internal routing )
Bike was build by myself with big help of my friend who is mechanic in pro tour team. He let me everything to do myself but he check all essential things.
He is very very satisfied with the frame. Internal routing, BB shell, headset shell, seatpost tolerance ..... in his opinion everything is perfect like "brand name" frames in their team.
Frame came in size XL ( i am 192cm with 95cm inseam ), ordered raw carbon so it was painted localy at my friend workshop. He is proffesional car painter.
Bike is Ultegra Di2 with FSA crankset and Falcon 60mm wheelset. There is not original headset and hanlebar-stem combo. I opted for Deda Vinci headset and stem-handlebar ( full internal routing )
Bike was build by myself with big help of my friend who is mechanic in pro tour team. He let me everything to do myself but he check all essential things.
He is very very satisfied with the frame. Internal routing, BB shell, headset shell, seatpost tolerance ..... in his opinion everything is perfect like "brand name" frames in their team.
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- Posts: 1314
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?OlieSimpson wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 5:07 pmNice update! Few questions for you
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE
On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
Carbon upper and lower rails, and Ti bolts
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
Possibly but I'm not aware of any in this shape and nothing I have in stock would work
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ther is a lip around the edge of the cap preventing the mounting faces touching so I removed them.
Ceramic coating as in something like this?
No, it's a more expensive and much longer lasting coating but they effectively do the same thing,
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat May 01, 2021 7:20 pm
Would you be interested in selling a 'tuning kit' with a carbon top cap and carbon upper and lower rails for the seat post?Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:50 pmWhat did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?OlieSimpson wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 5:07 pmNice update! Few questions for you
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE
On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
Carbon upper and lower rails, and Ti bolts
Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
Possibly but I'm not aware of any in this shape and nothing I have in stock would work
How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ther is a lip around the edge of the cap preventing the mounting faces touching so I removed them.
Ceramic coating as in something like this?
No, it's a more expensive and much longer lasting coating but they effectively do the same thing,
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@zaak,zaak wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:15 pmAfter few months and +2500 km here is my update about LTK 268 frame. Very satisfied with the frame and there is not any quality issue during building and cycling.
Frame came in size XL ( i am 192cm with 95cm inseam ), ordered raw carbon so it was painted localy at my friend workshop. He is proffesional car painter.
Bike is Ultegra Di2 with FSA crankset and Falcon 60mm wheelset. There is not original headset and hanlebar-stem combo. I opted for Deda Vinci headset and stem-handlebar ( full internal routing )
Bike was build by myself with big help of my friend who is mechanic in pro tour team. He let me everything to do myself but he check all essential things.
He is very very satisfied with the frame. Internal routing, BB shell, headset shell, seatpost tolerance ..... in his opinion everything is perfect like "brand name" frames in their team.
Thanks for your sharing and the posh blue makes it really stand out!
Although, I've just gotten a new bike, the thought of one of these Chinese builds really intrigues me however, the weight of 1+kg bugs me somewhat.
On the flip side, most of the build quality from LT, Velo, ican, wheelspace n Hongfu seem way better than much more expensive brands.
Out of curiosity why did you choose the LTK268 vs some of these other brands n models please?
Many thanks,
Mawashi