Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

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Steve Curtis
Posts: 1314
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.

by Steve Curtis

My velobuild 099 was delivered today.

It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.

I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.


Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237

Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some tuning it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.

Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.


Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.

I'll update as I go.
Last edited by Steve Curtis on Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Jimin
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue May 25, 2021 7:27 am

by Jimin

Steve Curtis wrote:My velobuild 099 was delivered today.

It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.

I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.


Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237

Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some thing it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.

Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.


Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.

I'll update as I go.
Omg picture please!

It's the VBR-099 right? :)

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by Weenie


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nicodinho
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:00 pm

by nicodinho

Jimin wrote:
Sun Jul 11, 2021 11:00 pm
Exactly the build I was looking for with the frame I wanted! May I ask how much you got your frame for and where you are located?
I bought two frames, which safed me shipping costs per frame. Total cost for this frame, handlebar, thru axles, headset, shipping to germany, paypal fee was 640$.
ehlpitel wrote:
Mon Jul 12, 2021 3:31 am
That paint-job looks pretty good for a DIY job- care to give a quick rundown of how you did it and what you used?
The frame came in raw finish. I used black 2K carbon primer (spray max), then after sanding i used black spray paint (montanablack). The glitter is dupli color ultra miracle. I coated the hole frame with spray max high gloss 2K clear coat and afterwards the rear triangle with the matte one.
Unfortunately, i got a bit of orange peel in some parts. I had to spray outside and i think the temperature was not ideal. Masking and sanding was a pain in the a*** aswell. But i like how it came out, since this was my first paint job.

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

If you're springting at top power output most of the time, go smaller frame.
If you want more comfortable ride and more predictable handling, go larger frame.

Cozmo85
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:43 pm

by Cozmo85

belopsky wrote:
Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:42 pm
Any options for a roadie that fits 32-35mm, with disc? I've got a pair of Zipp 303S wheels sitting around and I wouldn't mind a $500 frame to put them on..
I got the velobduild 066 disc running 32mm wide light bicycle wheels and 28mm tires which plump up to 30-31mm.

Here is the clearance

https://i.imgur.com/aLjdgG0.jpeg

User avatar
Klaster_1
Posts: 1390
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Paphos, Cyprus

by Klaster_1

Cozmo85 wrote:
Fri Jul 16, 2021 4:24 pm
belopsky wrote:
Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:42 pm
Any options for a roadie that fits 32-35mm, with disc? I've got a pair of Zipp 303S wheels sitting around and I wouldn't mind a $500 frame to put them on..
I got the velobduild 066 disc running 32mm wide light bicycle wheels and 28mm tires which plump up to 30-31mm.
Did you weigh the frame and fork?

Steve Curtis
Posts: 1314
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.

by Steve Curtis

Jimin wrote:
Wed Jul 14, 2021 8:26 pm
Steve Curtis wrote:My velobuild 099 was delivered today.

It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.

I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.


Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237

Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some thing it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.

Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.


Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.

I'll update as I go.
Omg picture please!

It's the VBR-099 right? :)

Skickat från min SM-N986B via Tapatalk
Dunno why you'd want a picture of a black frame, but here you go👍🏻.

Image

Image

Cozmo85
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:43 pm

by Cozmo85

Klaster_1 wrote:
Fri Jul 16, 2021 4:49 pm
Cozmo85 wrote:
Fri Jul 16, 2021 4:24 pm
belopsky wrote:
Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:42 pm
Any options for a roadie that fits 32-35mm, with disc? I've got a pair of Zipp 303S wheels sitting around and I wouldn't mind a $500 frame to put them on..
I got the velobduild 066 disc running 32mm wide light bicycle wheels and 28mm tires which plump up to 30-31mm.
Did you weigh the frame and fork?
No i did not.

Geertz
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2021 10:15 pm

by Geertz

Hi all,
Thinking of a purchasing an open mold frame and am in search of some particular features. First of all, I would like a BB386 Evo BB shell. I have a Praxis Zayante crankset that I would like to fit and even though they have a BB86 bb available, hambini suggests it's not advisable due to the smaller bearings required to fit it into a 42mm shell. I would also like disc brakes as I don't want to use carbon rims brakes.

Anyways, in my research I have come across a Dengfu R12, Tantan TT-X3, and Velobuild V-BR-089/086D. Dengfu are asking $550 and the other ones are around $290. So I'm a bit stuck. Anyone with any opinions on which one I should get? Is Dengfu "worth" the extra money as it's almost twice as much. Also if anyone knows of any alternatives, I'm also open to those.

Thanks!

Steve Curtis
Posts: 1314
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.

by Steve Curtis

Steve Curtis wrote:
Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:25 pm
My velobuild 099 was delivered today.

It's an M with 110-42 bar in gloss black.

I've already started modding various bits to drop some weight but these are the out of the box numbers.


Frame with mech hanger 1166
Fork 422
Integrated bar with bolts 320
Seatpost 237

Obviously the frame weight won't change but the fork should be 385 when chopped.
The bar is underweight so that's good.
Seatpost is a bit chubby but I need to cut it down and with some tuning it will be around 190 or less
Axles are ok at 36 and 41 so they can stay for a while.

Overall quality is very good but there are some annoying things like the seat clamp is 30 grams but that will be reduced with a Ti bolt M6-30mm and some dremel work.
The top cap for the integrated bar is aero shaped and 22g so I plan to make carbon one from the bit I cut off the post.


Very imprsssive for a cheap frame and postage was only a week so that's a bonus.

I'll update as I go.
As a follow up to this I wanted to add an update with some positives and negatives.
It's a cheap frame so I'm not too bothered but wanted to flag these points in case someone is considering picking one up.

Trimmed fork weight is 393g
-29g

Trimmed and tuned seatpost is 190g
-47g
Image
Image
Image

So that's a nice easy win.

The paint quality is actually really nice. Probably better than the cervelos I have.
I'll see how it's lasts when it's used. I'll be ceramic coating it so that will help.

1st problem.
The headset cap was sitting on the frame preventing the steering from turning as the top bearing sat too deeply into the frame.
Image
Image

It rubbed in a few spots so I took off the paint ( which will be covered by the cap ) but that wasn't enough.
Next step was to sand the cap to make it sit a little higher.
Image


Not a big problem and now fixed.


I can't get hold of the bits I want to use so I'll get it up and running with some stuff I have in the parts bin.
I'll used Juin f1 calipers for now but the rear does sit super close to the rear stay.
Not a problem but an observation.
Image

The headset spacers are solid so you need to pass the cables though them.
This is a pain if you want to raise or lower the hight when use in hydraulic brakes. I'm fortunate that I'll use the Juin f1 to confirm the hight ready for when my hydraulic groupset becomes available.

I think I could get away with cutting the spacer at the front as it's not going to pop out.

Image

OlieSimpson
Posts: 78
Joined: Sat May 01, 2021 7:20 pm

by OlieSimpson

Nice update! Few questions for you :D

What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?

Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?

How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?

Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE

On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.

zaak
Posts: 38
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:19 pm
Location: Rijeka - Fiume , Croatia

by zaak

After few months and +2500 km here is my update about LTK 268 frame. Very satisfied with the frame and there is not any quality issue during building and cycling.
Frame came in size XL ( i am 192cm with 95cm inseam ), ordered raw carbon so it was painted localy at my friend workshop. He is proffesional car painter.
Bike is Ultegra Di2 with FSA crankset and Falcon 60mm wheelset. There is not original headset and hanlebar-stem combo. I opted for Deda Vinci headset and stem-handlebar ( full internal routing )
Bike was build by myself with big help of my friend who is mechanic in pro tour team. He let me everything to do myself but he check all essential things.
He is very very satisfied with the frame. Internal routing, BB shell, headset shell, seatpost tolerance ..... in his opinion everything is perfect like "brand name" frames in their team.

Steve Curtis
Posts: 1314
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.

by Steve Curtis

OlieSimpson wrote:
Sun Jul 18, 2021 5:07 pm
Nice update! Few questions for you :D

What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?

Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?

How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?

Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE

On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Carbon upper and lower rails, and Ti bolts

Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
Possibly but I'm not aware of any in this shape and nothing I have in stock would work

How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ther is a lip around the edge of the cap preventing the mounting faces touching so I removed them.

Ceramic coating as in something like this?

No, it's a more expensive and much longer lasting coating but they effectively do the same thing,

OlieSimpson
Posts: 78
Joined: Sat May 01, 2021 7:20 pm

by OlieSimpson

Steve Curtis wrote:
Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:50 pm
OlieSimpson wrote:
Sun Jul 18, 2021 5:07 pm
Nice update! Few questions for you :D

What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?

Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?

How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?

Ceramic coating as in something like this? https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/turtle-wax- ... gLaDfD_BwE

On a separate note, has anyone tried to fit a post mount TRP HY/RD rear caliper and flat to post mount adapter to a VB-R-168? Looking at the pic above (I understand this is a 099 but they are pretty similar frames) I'm not sure it will fit.
What did you do to tune the seatpost aside from cutting off the excess length? Ti Bolts?
Carbon upper and lower rails, and Ti bolts

Would a micro washer have worked in the headset to raise up the headset bearing, rather than facing the headtube and sanding down the headset cap?
Possibly but I'm not aware of any in this shape and nothing I have in stock would work

How did sanding the headset cap make it sit higher? Would removing material through sanding not make it sit lower?
Ther is a lip around the edge of the cap preventing the mounting faces touching so I removed them.

Ceramic coating as in something like this?

No, it's a more expensive and much longer lasting coating but they effectively do the same thing,
Would you be interested in selling a 'tuning kit' with a carbon top cap and carbon upper and lower rails for the seat post?

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Mawashi
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2021 1:37 pm

by Mawashi

zaak wrote:
Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:15 pm
After few months and +2500 km here is my update about LTK 268 frame. Very satisfied with the frame and there is not any quality issue during building and cycling.
Frame came in size XL ( i am 192cm with 95cm inseam ), ordered raw carbon so it was painted localy at my friend workshop. He is proffesional car painter.
Bike is Ultegra Di2 with FSA crankset and Falcon 60mm wheelset. There is not original headset and hanlebar-stem combo. I opted for Deda Vinci headset and stem-handlebar ( full internal routing )
Bike was build by myself with big help of my friend who is mechanic in pro tour team. He let me everything to do myself but he check all essential things.
He is very very satisfied with the frame. Internal routing, BB shell, headset shell, seatpost tolerance ..... in his opinion everything is perfect like "brand name" frames in their team.
@zaak,

Thanks for your sharing and the posh blue makes it really stand out!

Although, I've just gotten a new bike, the thought of one of these Chinese builds really intrigues me however, the weight of 1+kg bugs me somewhat.

On the flip side, most of the build quality from LT, Velo, ican, wheelspace n Hongfu seem way better than much more expensive brands.

Out of curiosity why did you choose the LTK268 vs some of these other brands n models please?

Many thanks,

Mawashi

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