Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

[Steve Curtis]

I finished building my velobuild 099 today.

I wanted to flag a few things for anyone potentially looking at buying.
Obviously I can only comment on what was delivery to me, but I think it's still worth posting.

The frame.
I'm very impressed with after years of specialized,cervelo and cannondales this thing was made just as well ( obviously didn't NDT it) but everything was finished well. No raw edges, no carbon layup issues, no bits of bag stuck in the tubes.
The headset cups were perfect and so was the BB.

On a positive note. It came in at 7kg exactly.
It's a been built using whatever parts I had laying around so they're is plenty of room to improve that number.
I think 6.5 would be realistic without much effort.

Thank for sharing and please post a pic! Excited for my 99 to arrive. They coincidentally didn't have 38cm bars in stock so I opted out and (per my post above) am trying to source aftermarket options. FYI - Yoeleo is not manufacturing the H10 right now, though they do have the H9 in stock. Please let us know if you find an alternative.

Not the best pic.
I need to raise the saddle a bit but it's pretty much as I'd ride it.

Wheels are 45mm deep and 32mm wide with gp4000 28.

I'm going get go with a stem and bar.

[Jimin]

I finished building my velobuild 099 today.

I wanted to flag a few things for anyone potentially looking at buying.
Obviously I can only comment on what was delivery to me, but I think it's still worth posting.

The frame.
I'm very impressed with after years of specialized,cervelo and cannondales this thing was made just as well ( obviously didn't NDT it) but everything was finished well. No raw edges, no carbon layup issues, no bits of bag stuck in the tubes.
The headset cups were perfect and so was the BB.

Even with 32mm wide rims there is plenty of room for big rubber. I think a 35mm would fit.

The big negative are the bars. They're absolutely shit. They're a nightmare to install due to the design of the headset assembly. They don't use split spacers so you need to recable the whole frame if you want to change the fit.
When you do finally get the fit right the bars are just so offputingly bendy.

I'm looking into ways of being able to install a separate bar and stem but still use the internal cabling. That's my proffered solution but waiting for the parts to arrive before I can see if this will work.

If that doesn't work I'll reroute the cables into the hole on the down tube which would be for the Di2 port.


The two mounts under the bars needed to be re-tapped so my wahoo mount could be installed. The inserts are off at a funny angle so the wahoo is angled upward towards me. Looks stupid and probably enough to negate the aero bars hidden cables.

The seat clamp is marked as tighten to 12nm - don't do this, less than 6 is plenty.
Anyone tightening to 12 will probably crack the frame.

On a positive note. It came in at 7kg exactly.
It's a been built using whatever parts I had laying around so they're is plenty of room to improve that number.
I think 6.5 would be realistic without much effort.

Is it not possible to get another bars and stem from AliExpress? Or is it something that I have missed?

Skickat från min SM-N986B via Tapatalk

[Steve Curtis]

You've missed it three times I don't want to use an integrated bar.
I already have lots of carbon bars, I just need to figure out to to make the frame play nicely with a regular stem.

[Jan01]

Hey !

I just finished the build of my Miracle / Yoeleo R12.
Here a quick snapshot.
https://imgbb.com/TTrzk0F

Got it directly from Miracle bikes in about 6 weeks, including the paintwork.


The only problem I still have is the Headset, it still has quit a bit of clearance, no matter how tight I screw the Ahead expander.

Does anybody knows how to fix that ?
I heard from some people that that's a common problem with the R12.

[OlieSimpson]

You've missed it three times I don't want to use an integrated bar.
I already have lots of carbon bars, I just need to figure out to to make the frame play nicely with a regular stem.

What about something like the FSA SCR (semi-integrated) headset? https://bit.ly/3lHydWE I think this would allow a normal bar/stem combo but still be able to route the cables down through the headseat and in to the frame per your current cable routing?

I also wonder if the FSC ACR headset spacers would work with the VeloBuild bar/stem and headset, as it looks like the FSA options are 2 piece and can be split to make adjusting the stack a bit easier. https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-stem-spacer

[Steve Curtis]

You've missed it three times I don't want to use an integrated bar.
I already have lots of carbon bars, I just need to figure out to to make the frame play nicely with a regular stem.

What about something like the FSA SCR (semi-integrated) headset? https://bit.ly/3lHydWE I think this would allow a normal bar/stem combo but still be able to route the cables down through the headseat and in to the frame per your current cable routing?

I also wonder if the FSC ACR headset spacers would work with the VeloBuild bar/stem and headset, as it looks like the FSA options are 2 piece and can be split to make adjusting the stack a bit easier. https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-stem-spacer

Yeah, I know about the fsa stuff thanks. I have other things on order so just waiting for them to arrive and see if they work.
The fsa spacers won't work. Velobuild use a lump of cast alloy to keep the steerer central. This has two pins which lock into the spacers to enable everything to rotate and keep the front portion open for the cables.

My new spacers are plastic so I can easily be modified to fit (hopefully) allowing a regular stem to work.

Once I figure things out I'll post an update.

[CamW]

The only problem I still have is the Headset, it still has quit a bit of clearance, no matter how tight I screw the Ahead expander.

Does anybody knows how to fix that ?
I heard from some people that that's a common problem with the R12.

I assume you mean there is still play/movement/rocking in the headset? First make sure you have actually tightened it correctly. Here's a guide if you are uncertain. Also make sure the expander plug is properly secured in the steerer and not pulling out when you try to tighten.

Assuming you have done that correctly the next most likely problem is the top cap tightening onto the top of the fork steerer because you haven't left enough gap between the top of the steerer and the bottom of the top cap. Add an extra 5mm spacer to see if it fixes the issue.

Finally the trickiest one to diagnose/fix. The first spacer/cover which covers the top headset bearing is possibly tightening onto the top of the head tube before the headset is properly compressed. Try inserting a microspacer or two between the split ring and this cap. Tricker solution is machining down the outside edge of this cap but I wouldn't suggest that unless you are confident thats your issue.

[Jan01]

Thanks for your answer !

My fork steerer tube is short enough, I tested a 5mm, a 10mm and both spacers together on top of the handlebar, and it doesn't get better at all.
The headset cover (first spacer) sits directly on the compression ring, and does not touch the frame. There is a gap of about 1mm between headset cover and head tube.

I'll take a closer look at the whole thing this evening, and maybe add a few pictures

[Jan01]

Hi, everyone,
i found out what caused the clearance in the steering bearing.

The fork shaft had an undersize of 0.2mm at the point where it is clamped by the compression ring.

The compression ring, which is quite stiff, was unable to grip the fork firmly.
As a result, the fork moved minimally in the compression ring itself.

I was able to solve the problem by cutting a piece of sheet metal out of a coke can and placing it between the compression ring and the fork.

[OlieSimpson]

You've missed it three times I don't want to use an integrated bar.
I already have lots of carbon bars, I just need to figure out to to make the frame play nicely with a regular stem.

What about something like the FSA SCR (semi-integrated) headset? https://bit.ly/3lHydWE I think this would allow a normal bar/stem combo but still be able to route the cables down through the headseat and in to the frame per your current cable routing?

I also wonder if the FSC ACR headset spacers would work with the VeloBuild bar/stem and headset, as it looks like the FSA options are 2 piece and can be split to make adjusting the stack a bit easier. https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-stem-spacer

Yeah, I know about the fsa stuff thanks. I have other things on order so just waiting for them to arrive and see if they work.
The fsa spacers won't work. Velobuild use a lump of cast alloy to keep the steerer central. This has two pins which lock into the spacers to enable everything to rotate and keep the front portion open for the cables.

My new spacers are plastic so I can easily be modified to fit (hopefully) allowing a regular stem to work.

Once I figure things out I'll post an update.

Not sure if this is of any relevance but it looks like VeloBuild have just released a new integrated bar (HB011) that comes with split headset spacers. The bar also has quite a different profile to the HB010 but without testing I have no idea if it's any stiffer.

http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbo ... outing-300

I'm still waiting for my VB-R-168 order to be finalised (been waiting for painting and decals for almost 1 month now), but am going to ask Chris if he can include the new HB011 bar with split spacers instead of the HB010 given the price for both bars is the same.

[wolfesquire]

So what is the general consensus on Velobuild framesets? Thinking of building one for a cheapy everyday bike (105, aluminum wheels, etc)

[Steve Curtis]

You've missed it three times I don't want to use an integrated bar.
I already have lots of carbon bars, I just need to figure out to to make the frame play nicely with a regular stem.

What about something like the FSA SCR (semi-integrated) headset? https://bit.ly/3lHydWE I think this would allow a normal bar/stem combo but still be able to route the cables down through the headseat and in to the frame per your current cable routing?

I also wonder if the FSC ACR headset spacers would work with the VeloBuild bar/stem and headset, as it looks like the FSA options are 2 piece and can be split to make adjusting the stack a bit easier. https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-stem-spacer

Yeah, I know about the fsa stuff thanks. I have other things on order so just waiting for them to arrive and see if they work.
The fsa spacers won't work. Velobuild use a lump of cast alloy to keep the steerer central. This has two pins which lock into the spacers to enable everything to rotate and keep the front portion open for the cables.

My new spacers are plastic so I can easily be modified to fit (hopefully) allowing a regular stem to work.

Once I figure things out I'll post an update.

Not sure if this is of any relevance but it looks like VeloBuild have just released a new integrated bar (HB011) that comes with split headset spacers. The bar also has quite a different profile to the HB010 but without testing I have no idea if it's any stiffer.

http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbo ... outing-300

I'm still waiting for my VB-R-168 order to be finalised (been waiting for painting and decals for almost 1 month now), but am going to ask Chris if he can include the new HB011 bar with split spacers instead of the HB010 given the price for both bars is the same.

That's the bar and spacer kit I have.

[RDY]

It looks like the HB010 does have split spacers ...

[Steve Curtis]

It looks like the HB010 does have split spacers ...

The pic I looked at they're the same as mine - solid, but the other pics do appear to be split.

[obiwanshinobi]

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