Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

[Mawashi]

Hi Steve,

Zaak has a really good blog where he gives a lot of info on how he built the VB099
https://roadmeister.cc/

Cheers

Thanks.
Yeah, I know the blog but it doesn't go into enough detail to be helpful. They've changed the handlebar design too.

So far not impressed with the internal routing design so I'm going to come up with a way to use a standard bar and stem.

Personally I too wouldn't go the internal routing as there are so many issues that could crop up like the cables getting stretched during tight turns etc or it just too much of a pain to route them internally.

I have a 3t strada and a felt 2011 both have terrible routing in that cables go through the top tube just after the steerer. Now those bikes are better off having side ports or all internal routing as its a mess up front.

I just think that better cable routing is really needed on all bikes as it is getting to be such a pain to plan out a simple installation!

I totally agree. Integrates bars are better now with split spacers etc but there just isn't enough room for 3 or 4 cables to run unimpeded in that tight space. I guess it's different if you have etap and 2 cables but still, it's a pain.

This build was supposed to be AXS but as it isn't available right now I need to use a mechanical shifter. I've got to a point where the cable outlets are in the frame but I ran out of sware words during the process. It doesn't feel like a controlled and repeatable process. More a case of stuff them in and hope the don't rub.

It's times like this I where I'd love a 3D printer and the brain to design something. Instead I've ordered some 2mm carbon sheet to make a new top cap so I can fit a standard stem.

I hear you and I was having similar issues with my 1x build. The parts availibility are just a pain to deal with, God forbid that I smash a derailer or break an out of stock part which would take another 3 months to replace.
From page 9 there are a quite a few very imaginative posts on how to route the cables but it got too Macgyver and mythbusters for me.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=120
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=210
I figured that the bike makers too were getting to the point where it became too much of a pain to route cables internally which is why they decided to go E and wireless if possible.

Bikes should have a dedicate tube or at the very least a sleeve where you could stuff in all the cables easily to be routed correctly. $4k plus frames and we get frames with worse qc than a $1k moped!

[Steve Curtis]

Thanks.
Yeah, I know the blog but it doesn't go into enough detail to be helpful. They've changed the handlebar design too.

So far not impressed with the internal routing design so I'm going to come up with a way to use a standard bar and stem.

Personally I too wouldn't go the internal routing as there are so many issues that could crop up like the cables getting stretched during tight turns etc or it just too much of a pain to route them internally.

I have a 3t strada and a felt 2011 both have terrible routing in that cables go through the top tube just after the steerer. Now those bikes are better off having side ports or all internal routing as its a mess up front.

I just think that better cable routing is really needed on all bikes as it is getting to be such a pain to plan out a simple installation!

I totally agree. Integrates bars are better now with split spacers etc but there just isn't enough room for 3 or 4 cables to run unimpeded in that tight space. I guess it's different if you have etap and 2 cables but still, it's a pain.

This build was supposed to be AXS but as it isn't available right now I need to use a mechanical shifter. I've got to a point where the cable outlets are in the frame but I ran out of sware words during the process. It doesn't feel like a controlled and repeatable process. More a case of stuff them in and hope the don't rub.

It's times like this I where I'd love a 3D printer and the brain to design something. Instead I've ordered some 2mm carbon sheet to make a new top cap so I can fit a standard stem.

I hear you and I was having similar issues with my 1x build. The parts availibility are just a pain to deal with, God forbid that I smash a derailer or break an out of stock part which would take another 3 months to replace.
From page 9 there are a quite a few very imaginative posts on how to route the cables but it got too Macgyver and mythbusters for me.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=120
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=210
I figured that the bike makers too were getting to the point where it became too much of a pain to route cables internally which is why they decided to go E and wireless if possible.

Bikes should have a dedicate tube or at the very least a sleeve where you could stuff in all the cables easily to be routed correctly. $4k plus frames and we get frames with worse qc than a $1k moped!

I hear ya. I've been following along as I've been keen on a 3t but fall between sizes unfortunately.

One tip I can pass on. The KCNC lightweight gear outer is really nice and bendy so that really helps gets the candles though tight gaps.
It would be awesome to have a tube but I stole you're idea and used dense foam lodged into the down tube to act as a guide and stop twisting. Also acts as a damper to stop any rattle.

[MattBeOne]

Hi Guys,

Wanted to know if any of you have experienced issues with the BSA version of the FM066-SL?
I bought my first frame 5,5 years ago. After 2,5 years noise starting coming from the BB area. Turned out that the alu shell started to debond from the frame, causing motion between the alu bb shell and frame.

Hongfu offered me a small discount on a new frame. I again chose a BSA FM066-SL.

Now, 2 years later the same issue is coming up with this frame as well.
I've emailed Hongfu, hoping that as it's now still in waranty (<2 years old) they'll ship me a new frame (fingers crossed)...

Anyone with similar experiences?

[Hazzer19]

Does anyone reckon if Sigeyi has a direct mount RD hanger that would fit the Velobuild 168? https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?ca ... ext=sigeyi

I messaged Sigeyi with that exact question and they just said that they hadn't tested the frame.

I'd love to find a direct mount for the 168.

Same - I messged them on IG and they had a similar response. Hopefully something compatible will come up!

[Organon]

Wanted to know if any of you have experienced issues with the BSA version of the FM066-SL?

I had a similar problem with Dengfu R02 (FM066 with dropped seatstays). First there were cracks around bb, then after a couple of thousands km it started creaking. No noticeable movement though. Frame was out of warranty period. I think it happened because of the water getting inside the frame and maybe badly prepared aluminium shell.

[Mawashi]

Personally I too wouldn't go the internal routing as there are so many issues that could crop up like the cables getting stretched during tight turns etc or it just too much of a pain to route them internally.

I have a 3t strada and a felt 2011 both have terrible routing in that cables go through the top tube just after the steerer. Now those bikes are better off having side ports or all internal routing as its a mess up front.

I just think that better cable routing is really needed on all bikes as it is getting to be such a pain to plan out a simple installation!

I totally agree. Integrates bars are better now with split spacers etc but there just isn't enough room for 3 or 4 cables to run unimpeded in that tight space. I guess it's different if you have etap and 2 cables but still, it's a pain.

This build was supposed to be AXS but as it isn't available right now I need to use a mechanical shifter. I've got to a point where the cable outlets are in the frame but I ran out of sware words during the process. It doesn't feel like a controlled and repeatable process. More a case of stuff them in and hope the don't rub.

It's times like this I where I'd love a 3D printer and the brain to design something. Instead I've ordered some 2mm carbon sheet to make a new top cap so I can fit a standard stem.

I hear you and I was having similar issues with my 1x build. The parts availibility are just a pain to deal with, God forbid that I smash a derailer or break an out of stock part which would take another 3 months to replace.
From page 9 there are a quite a few very imaginative posts on how to route the cables but it got too Macgyver and mythbusters for me.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=120
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=163002&start=210
I figured that the bike makers too were getting to the point where it became too much of a pain to route cables internally which is why they decided to go E and wireless if possible.

Bikes should have a dedicate tube or at the very least a sleeve where you could stuff in all the cables easily to be routed correctly. $4k plus frames and we get frames with worse qc than a $1k moped!

I hear ya. I've been following along as I've been keen on a 3t but fall between sizes unfortunately.

One tip I can pass on. The KCNC lightweight gear outer is really nice and bendy so that really helps gets the candles though tight gaps.
It would be awesome to have a tube but I stole you're idea and used dense foam lodged into the down tube to act as a guide and stop twisting. Also acts as a damper to stop any rattle.

Lol I don't own that idea so steal away buddy!

I did think about light weight foam rings like the tubes wrapped around Aircon piping but cut to just the right size.

I'll wrap the cables / foam rings into a plastic tube then pull the plastic covering out once the cables are correctly inserted... What a troublesome diy process though.

Good to know about the KCNC lightweight gear outer thx!

Good luck on the build!

[Mawashi]

Wanted to know if any of you have experienced issues with the BSA version of the FM066-SL?

I had a similar problem with Dengfu R02 (FM066 with dropped seatstays). First there were cracks around bb, then after a couple of thousands km it started creaking. No noticeable movement though. Frame was out of warranty period. I think it happened because of the water getting inside the frame and maybe badly prepared aluminium shell.

@Organon

The same thing happen to my felt. It's just one of those things when alu is bonded to carbon, the resin eventually will fail.

So regardless of the brand, things will start to fail and it makes sense to buy these Chinese frames as they costs a fraction of what my felt was.

I can easily replace a Chinese frame 5 times or more for the cost of that 1 felt. Furthermore, bike tech is ever evolving so I plan on replacing my bikes every 2 to 3 yrs.

[waltthizzney]

Hi Guys,

Wanted to know if any of you have experienced issues with the BSA version of the FM066-SL?
I bought my first frame 5,5 years ago. After 2,5 years noise starting coming from the BB area. Turned out that the alu shell started to debond from the frame, causing motion between the alu bb shell and frame.

Hongfu offered me a small discount on a new frame. I again chose a BSA FM066-SL. Not to concerned given the price, may try and get a full carbon BB on my next bike

Now, 2 years later the same issue is coming up with this frame as well.
I've emailed Hongfu, hoping that as it's now still in waranty (<2 years old) they'll ship me a new frame (fingers crossed)...

Anyone with similar experiences?

Exact same thing happened to my Tan Tan FM066.... it was labeled R02 in the headtube for what its worth, I am assuming all these bikes come from the same place.....

I got around 45,000km (4 Years) out of mine before the BB self distrusted. Replaced it with a LTK118 that seems fine after one year. maybe full carbon BB is best, given the price and how much I trashed it was not to concerned

[Hogesyx]

Hi Guys,

Wanted to know if any of you have experienced issues with the BSA version of the FM066-SL?
I bought my first frame 5,5 years ago. After 2,5 years noise starting coming from the BB area. Turned out that the alu shell started to debond from the frame, causing motion between the alu bb shell and frame.

Hongfu offered me a small discount on a new frame. I again chose a BSA FM066-SL.

Now, 2 years later the same issue is coming up with this frame as well.
I've emailed Hongfu, hoping that as it's now still in waranty (<2 years old) they'll ship me a new frame (fingers crossed)...

Anyone with similar experiences?

I had a friend that has this issue, and he rinse the gap with dish soap and isopropyl alcohol and inject epoxy into the gaps.

[Steve Curtis]

...

[Mack10]

Anyone got experience with Canyon/S Works or Pinarello frames from aliexpress? Should i stay away or is it ok quality?
They look quite nice both paint and frame..

Thanks

[Shpox]

Anyone got experience with Canyon/S Works or Pinarello frames from aliexpress? Should i stay away or is it ok quality?
They look quite nice both paint and frame..

Thanks

Avoid, you're paying for money that has gone into making it look like a copy, not the actual frame.

[Shpox]

For those of you who are experts in this, do you know of a frame that has the following qualities?

• 1/1/8" Fork/Stem
  27.2mm Seatpost
  Can fit 28mm tyres
  Some aero touches but mostly allround/light
  BSA or BB86
  Rim Brake - doesn't matter if not direct mount
  Di2
  Last but not least, if they let you custom paint or just matte black

The only one I could sort of see was the Elves Vanyar.

[Algreen]

For those of you who are experts in this, do you know of a frame that has the following qualities?

• 1/1/8" Fork/Stem
  27.2mm Seatpost
  Can fit 28mm tyres
  Some aero touches but mostly allround/light
  BSA or BB86
  Rim Brake - doesn't matter if not direct mount
  Di2
  Last but not least, if they let you custom paint or just matte black

The only one I could sort of see was the Elves Vanyar.

http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r ... rbon-fiber

[F10]

Anyone got experience with Canyon/S Works or Pinarello frames from aliexpress? Should i stay away or is it ok quality?
They look quite nice both paint and frame..

Thanks

Definitely don't do this. The people making & selling the frames are already breaking the law - imagine how much they give a shit about it being safe to ride...