Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

[romanmoser]

why the
) 1x compatible (44 or 46t) but able to go 2x ?

I want to run a dropper post via internal routing.

I know, seems ridiculous. But, I like going fast both up and down.


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'' I’m a mountain biker looking to build a 1x11 road bike that can handle light gravel use. I also want to run a dropper seatpost. And race it in a weekly crit series. Live at 7k ft/2200m and regularly ride to 10k/3000m+, ''

So you'll swap between 1X and 2X frequently right ?

[LeDuke]

No. A 46x10 gear will have me close enough to road gearing.

I don’t need tight gear spacing. I’d use the left shifter to actuate the dropper.


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[pushstart]

No. A 46x10 gear will have me close enough to road gearing.

I don’t need tight gear spacing. I’d use the left shifter to actuate the dropper.


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I look forward to seeing this build. I run road 1x and agree re: gearing. One gets used to the larger gaps; I definitely never miss the second ring up front. I do like never dropping a chain when the road gets rough. I only recently have a dropper post on my MTB (a little behind the times, I know), so I can't say this would make my short-list yet for road bike. But I suspect that my opinion will change as I learn how to use it properly off-road.

[LeDuke]

I’m a “pro” XC racer (in license category only, I assure you), and I was hesitant at first. One thing that made me even more hesitant was the early problems with a lot of the big brand dropper posts. I’m hardly abusive and I killed two (SRAM and Fox) in one season. That put me off them for a year or so. Rode behind a friend who was using one out on the trail one day and decided to give them another go.

I bought a used Specialized Command Post IRCC. Haven’t done anything besides pump it up to 20psi once a month in 2+ years.

I can’t imagine riding off-road without one now. From my perspective, being able to get the seat completely out of the way on a road descent could only be a good thing. Being able to REALLY lean the bike over while driving the front wheel down into the pavement = speed.


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[kipduff]

I'm going to step into road disc world soon.

Considering two frames:
Velobuild 2019 road frame disc brake:
http://www.velobuildmall.com/2019-velob ... p0114.html
Dengfu R10:
http://m.dengfubikes.com/index.php?s=/197.html

The Dengfu is currently under design revise. They are changing to D-shape seatpost, improve cable routing for non-integrated bar. Velobuild's mold is finished but they are still waiting for the actual frame.

Main difference between them in my size are the handling geometry:
Dengfu: 71.5 degree head tube and 43mm fork offset -> this lead to 69mm trail for 27mm tyre
according to http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailc ... =622&tw=27
couple with 415mm chain stay length. Support for 32c tyre and having ~4mm more toe clearance in my calculation.

Velobuild: 72.5 degree head tube and 45mm fork offset -> this lead to 61mm trail for 27mm tyre
according to http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailc ... =622&tw=27
couple with 405mm chain stay length. Support for 30c tyre. Shorter wheel base overall, and not sure if chain stay length is a bit short for a disc brake spacing in the rear.

I like Dengfu more for almost everything, except the trail is way too long. If only it has 45-50mm fork offset, or simply steepen the head tube angle to 72 degree, that would be enough to make handling better.
i think i'll spend weeks deciding between them.

Claimed weight on R10 is 980.... vs 1050 on the VB-R-086
I agree on the trail issue.
It appears to me that the DengFu has a little better attention to detail and craftsmanship.
They both have shift cable access under BB- which I like because my HF-039 failed in that area and I have to run the RD with colplete cable and housing full length outside frame.
Both are available in 54cm now but 52cm not available yet.
VB-R-086 $399- DF-R10 $580. The low price of the VB-R kinda scares me....
It's a bit of work deciding- but important to look at all aspects.

[Hexsense]

Why suddenly these newer bikes with big(ger) tire clearance become so tall?
I can handle reach of 376-385 with 100-110mm stem but i can't set-up proper bar height with -17degree stem, thin headset cap and no spacer once the stack gone above 529mm.
That limit me to some smallest size of each model which most Chinese brands don't bother making a dedicated fork to keep the trail in check if they want to slacken head tube angle to make reach shorter without introducing severe toe overlap,
or at least keep the bike's length of the bigger size just shrink head tube length down would be more apreciated than blow up trail number.
In current form, i guess i'll just have to avoid any bike that their small size have inappropriately long trail (slack head tube angle and insufficient fork offset) or up size and use -20 degree stem or even more stupid angle...

That push me toward VB-R-086 size 52 which have no issue with trail number.
Their 528mm stack is boderline okay but i'll have no room to bring my bar any lower without resorting "steeper than -17 degree" stem though.

[LeDuke]

Get a Syntace FlatForce.

Aesthetically, looks like a “normal” stem. But places the bars significantly lower than a normal -17 degree stem.


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[ccparkhill]

Any disc frames that allow the Shimano RS910 di2 junction box to be installed on the downtube in the same way a Dogma F10 does?

[inertianinja]

My FM-066 just arrived, and I'm now a little nervous about the geometry.

My other bikes:
Felt AR, size 58 (stack 580, reach 397mm), 100mm stem, no spacers - comfortable but i could go a size down.
Cervelo S3, size 56 (stack 580reach 387mm) - 110mm stem, no spacers; aggressive but fine.

I got the FM-066 in a size 56 (stack 557, reach 394). Seems like a really low and long compared to my previous bikes.

I don't think the Size 54 (stack 543, reach 384) is necessarily the answer, though - though the reach would be closer to my usual, I feel like it would be REALLY low.

Any thoughts on how this would affect me? Should I just start really working on my lower back stretches?

[Hexsense]

you state stem length and spacer used, but miss another important information, Stem angle.

-6 degree stem set the bar 21mm higher than -17 degree stem (for 73 degree headtube and 110mm stem length).

If other bikes used -17 degree stem, just use -6 degree stem on your FM-066 and all the stack difference evaporates.
Also, using spacers effectively reduce your reach too,
calculate at http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

[inertianinja]

you state stem length and spacer used, but miss another important information, Stem angle.

-6 degree stem set the bar 21mm higher than -17 degree stem (for 73 degree headtube and 110mm stem length).

If other bikes used -17 degree stem, just use -6 degree stem on your FM-066 and all the stack difference evaporates.
Also, using spacers effectively reduce your reach too,
calculate at http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

Ah should have stated. -17 on the 58 felt, and -6 on the 56 cervelo.

That said, it wouldn’t make sense for me to go to the 54 just to reduce the reach, right? I’d have to have a stack of spacers to compensate for the much lower stack.

[Hexsense]

you said Cervelo is an aggressive fit, but it actually put handle bar a lot higher than the Felt, thanks to -6 degree stem instead of the -17.
Are you sure about your geometry number?

About downsizing, no not at all.
If you put 2.3cm spacers on the 066 to match your other two bike's stack, its reach is already shrink more than half cm and fit very similary to the Cervelo.

[JLS]

Yer i have been looking at the HF-FM008 but cant figure out the geometry at all is it based of a popular manufacturer?

Im 172cm and ride a Cervelo R2 Stack 530 Reach 369 with a 90mm stem level horizontaly.

[inertianinja]

anyone know the torque specs for the expander plug that comes with the FM066?

I can't get this thing to stay put in the steer tube. Used Park Tool friction paste, torqued to 6nm (and a little more), but when i preload with the top cap the thing just pulls out, leaving the headset loose.

I also tried doing this with the parts clean and dry, but still preloading the top cap just draws it out, gently sanding the inside of the steerer tube

Or, maybe a better option out there?

[bremerradkurier]

anyone know the torque specs for the expander plug that comes with the FM066?

I can't get this thing to stay put in the steer tube. Used Park Tool friction paste, torqued to 6nm (and a little more), but when i preload with the top cap the thing just pulls out, leaving the headset loose.

I also tried doing this with the parts clean and dry, but still preloading the top cap just draws it out, gently sanding the inside of the steerer tube

Or, maybe a better option out there?

Have you measured the inner diameter with a caliper to see if it is in spec and concentric?