Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

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jencvo
Posts: 325
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2018 12:01 pm

by jencvo

trex021 wrote:
Tue Dec 11, 2018 6:58 pm
jencvo wrote:
Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:05 pm
There it is, the build is complete!
I really like the look of the frame. How is the quality?
Did you weight it?
Did they do the paint for you?
How much for the paint job?
Sorry didn't see you quoted me sooner. I was only able to take a bike out for 15 minutes. The frame quality seems very good, very clear paint, no sharp edges, every opening on the frame was also clean. All the openings for cables, etc. was very precise. The bike came in just under 8kg without the pedals. I kind of hoped for something a bit lighter, but I didn't go full weight weenie on it at the same time. The tires are tubeless. In terms of the paint work, they painted it for me. I also asked for a special font called "Steiner", which turned out super nicely. I sent them the decal I wanted in the correct font and they did it for me. See in the attached photo how we communicated the paint requirements. The cost of painting depends on what exactly you want, mine ended up being $125 because of decal, so $710 for the bike with shipping and paypal fee included.

Now to my post opener... I ran into a big issue with the rear wheel. I bought the Hunts from a bike shop in Europe as new take downs. The rear wheel bearings and freehub are toasted or something is very wrong. I can't backpedal, the chain just goes slack. Also, if I try to pedal normally the entire axle turns, instead of the wheel turning around the axle (not the thru axle, but whatever the internal wheel axle is). The coasting works fine though. So not much for riding until I get replacement parts from Hunt. They use Novatec hubs;d oes anybody have any idea what is going on with this rear wheel? I couldn't use the wheel from my gravel bike because I have 160mm 6bolt rotors there and couldn't swap. Very frustrating having to wait even longer!

jencvo
Posts: 325
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2018 12:01 pm

by jencvo

jencvo wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:53 am
trex021 wrote:
Tue Dec 11, 2018 6:58 pm
jencvo wrote:
Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:05 pm
There it is, the build is complete!
I really like the look of the frame. How is the quality?
Did you weight it?
Did they do the paint for you?
How much for the paint job?
Sorry didn't see you quoted me sooner. I was only able to take a bike out for 15 minutes. The frame quality seems very good, very clear paint, no sharp edges, every opening on the frame was also clean. All the openings for cables, etc. was very precise. The bike came in just under 8kg without the pedals. I kind of hoped for something a bit lighter, but I didn't go full weight weenie on it at the same time. The tires are tubeless. In terms of the paint work, they painted it for me. I also asked for a special font called "Steiner", which turned out super nicely. I sent them the decal I wanted in the correct font and they did it for me. See in the attached photo how we communicated the paint requirements. The cost of painting depends on what exactly you want, mine ended up being $125 because of decal, so $710 for the bike with shipping and paypal fee included.

Now to my post opener... I ran into a big issue with the rear wheel. I bought the Hunts from a bike shop in Europe as new take downs. The rear wheel bearings and freehub are toasted or something is very wrong. I can't backpedal, the chain just goes slack. Also, if I try to pedal normally the entire axle turns, instead of the wheel turning around the axle (not the thru axle, but whatever the internal wheel axle is). The coasting works fine though. So not much for riding until I get replacement parts from Hunt. They use Novatec hubs;d oes anybody have any idea what is going on with this rear wheel? I couldn't use the wheel from my gravel bike because I have 160mm 6bolt rotors there and couldn't swap. Very frustrating having to wait even longer!
Also forgot to include the photo. Also including another photo of a decal I ordered from DIY lettering. Cost me $22 for two stickers with shipping. Very nice decal and really doesn't come across as a sticker! It's a Slovenian quote that literally means there are no straight roads in life, obviously with a meaning. Just thought it was applicable.Image Image
Attachments
20181107105026.png
IMG_5879.jpeg

by Weenie


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Roddy
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:39 am

by Roddy

jencvo wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:53 am
trex021 wrote:
Tue Dec 11, 2018 6:58 pm
jencvo wrote:
Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:05 pm
There it is, the build is complete!
I really like the look of the frame. How is the quality?
Did you weight it?
Did they do the paint for you?
How much for the paint job?
Sorry didn't see you quoted me sooner. I was only able to take a bike out for 15 minutes. The frame quality seems very good, very clear paint, no sharp edges, every opening on the frame was also clean. All the openings for cables, etc. was very precise. The bike came in just under 8kg without the pedals. I kind of hoped for something a bit lighter, but I didn't go full weight weenie on it at the same time. The tires are tubeless. In terms of the paint work, they painted it for me. I also asked for a special font called "Steiner", which turned out super nicely. I sent them the decal I wanted in the correct font and they did it for me. See in the attached photo how we communicated the paint requirements. The cost of painting depends on what exactly you want, mine ended up being $125 because of decal, so $710 for the bike with shipping and paypal fee included.

Now to my post opener... I ran into a big issue with the rear wheel. I bought the Hunts from a bike shop in Europe as new take downs. The rear wheel bearings and freehub are toasted or something is very wrong. I can't backpedal, the chain just goes slack. Also, if I try to pedal normally the entire axle turns, instead of the wheel turning around the axle (not the thru axle, but whatever the internal wheel axle is). The coasting works fine though. So not much for riding until I get replacement parts from Hunt. They use Novatec hubs;d oes anybody have any idea what is going on with this rear wheel? I couldn't use the wheel from my gravel bike because I have 160mm 6bolt rotors there and couldn't swap. Very frustrating having to wait even longer!
Hi,

I have Hunt wheels. I had a similar problem to the one you are having. To me it was that the disc rotor was rubbing against the hub body. I fixed it (or bodged it, pedending on your POV) by adding a spacer, in my case the 6 bold adaptor that came with the wheels.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Marin
Posts: 4035
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

jencvo wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:53 am
. I can't backpedal, the chain just goes slack. Also, if I try to pedal normally the entire axle turns, instead of the wheel turning around the axle (not the thru axle, but whatever the internal wheel axle is). The coasting works fine though. So not much for riding until I get replacement parts from Hunt. They use Novatec hubs;d oes anybody have any idea what is going on with this rear wheel?
Strange. Maybe there's a spacer missing? Pull the freehub and check how it goes together, or post pics here.

jencvo
Posts: 325
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2018 12:01 pm

by jencvo

Marin wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:10 pm
jencvo wrote:
Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:53 am
. I can't backpedal, the chain just goes slack. Also, if I try to pedal normally the entire axle turns, instead of the wheel turning around the axle (not the thru axle, but whatever the internal wheel axle is). The coasting works fine though. So not much for riding until I get replacement parts from Hunt. They use Novatec hubs;d oes anybody have any idea what is going on with this rear wheel?
Strange. Maybe there's a spacer missing? Pull the freehub and check how it goes together, or post pics here.
From what I gathered it is a spacer or some sort missing. I received the wheels from a bike shop in Europe via eBay, so no idea what they did to them. Kind of BS since this was advertised as new take offs. Hunt sent me a replacement freehub but they sent the wrong one so I have to wait another three weeks -.-

I took the bike out today with another rear wheel, went for a 110km ride. The bike was absolutely stunning, very stiff, handled nicely and kept the pace really well. I found it a lot easier to maintain pace compared to anything I've ridden before. No creaking or anything of the kind. FULL DISCLAIMER: I've never ridden any top of the range bike (SW, R5, and equivalent), so my opinion might be compromised.

My only complaint is a crack in the paint and one paint chip around the rear disc caliper. I made sure I didn't overtighten it and I actually noticed this before today's ride (before today I did 5km outside and one 60min trainer ride). Any suggestions on how to go about paint chipping? I want to make sure it doesn't spread. Right now the chips are at the top and the bottom of the chainstay and I noticed a very tiny crank in paint at the side.

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

jerome2710 wrote:
Sat Dec 01, 2018 4:23 pm
The waiting finally paid off when I received my TM6/FM109 yesterday:

Image

Does anyone have some tips about routing the front brake cable? The turn from the handlebars down through the stem is extremely tight and folds the outer housing, jamming the inner cable. A photo would be really helpful!
Any progress with this build?
What size is that frame?
More pictures please.

User avatar
jerome2710
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 1:35 pm

by jerome2710

As you wish:

Image

Not the best composition, but it gaves an insight of the current build phase. Just swapped the crank out for an 170mm Rotor Flow instead of the 175mm Rotor 2INpower.
Only need to get the rear brake sorted out, I do not like the TRP brakes and want to use the Ultegra Direct Mount. But those have 5mm bolts while the TRP has 7mm. Need to get my hands on some sort of adapter.

Trying to get my position dialed in & then shorten the bars, etc.: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bobgwxxrq4aad ... 1.mp4?dl=0
Last edited by jerome2710 on Sun Dec 23, 2018 2:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

Thank you.

What is the frame size?

User avatar
jerome2710
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 1:35 pm

by jerome2710

none wrote:
Sun Dec 23, 2018 2:02 pm
Thank you.

What is the frame size?
I forgot that part, I was just typing it;

I opted for a size 54 for the shorter reach, because my upper body is a bit shorter proportionally than my lower body. Saddle height is now 820mm and while I am above 190cm, I can use the 850mm UCI reach morphological exemption to compensate my mechanical shifter. My current reach is now 805mm, so I have some room to play with.

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

Are these the correct measurements for your frame?
Image

I'm about 180cm tall, 83cm inseam. I purchased the 57cm frame size, found that the measurements a little off from the chart..
specifically the chainstay length and top tube..
seem somewhat inconsistant in how the measurements were taken.
I'm still debating whether to got Di2 or regular mechanical shifting.
Image

User avatar
jerome2710
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 1:35 pm

by jerome2710

Yours is the TT01, while I bought the FM109. Note the differences in the seat tube, I think the FM109 looks better and is more 'clean'. The geometry of the FM109 is attached to this post. I believe a size 57 TT01 is rather large when you are only 180cm, but I am curious about your final position.

With a single ring setup, mechanical is just fine. I like how clean it looks, although shifting from the base bar might have been nice. But the reason I have chosen 1x is because the landscape is merely flat, so I do not ride on the base bar a lot anyway.
Attachments
FM109几何图.jpg

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

Thanks for the chart. I needed to compare measurements between your frame & mine.
Just curious, how tall are you?

I started riding 54 or 56cm road frame back in 1990, by 2004 I switched to 58cm road frames and ridden over 40k miles since.
My other TT frame is a 2001 Litespeed Blade 58cm that I've been riding since 2010 about 8k miles.
Image

Below is very close to my final position on the TT01, in comparison to my other road bike.
Seat height from bottom bracket is pretty much the same between the two, reach and drop to brakes & elbow pads are very close to where I want them to be on a TT bike.
Image
Image
Last edited by none on Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:09 am, edited 2 times in total.

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cveks
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2017 8:15 pm
Contact:

by cveks

chinese frames rock.

none
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:29 pm
Location: NE PA

by none

Some of them do rock... some of them are duds, too.

by Weenie


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wjs
Posts: 78
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:37 pm
Location: Rotterdam, The Netherlands

by wjs

Does anybody have experience with a Holdsworth Super Professional Carbon Road Frameset? I strongly suspect that it is a China frame.

Considering this frame as the pound is relative cheap, geo suits me and you have some sort of guarantee. At least I would expect more than a direct China purchase

Cheers!


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