They are the OEM Shimano ones that came with my Ultegra shifters. I've tried searching on here but best I can see on the listings is a Dura Ace cabled bike at 264g all in. Are Dura Ace lighter than the SIS ones? (I expect so)
What have people found have been their savings on weight when switching cables? I am particularly interested in the Jagwire Racer kit as it's cheap in comparison to iLinks/Nokon/Powercordz etc which I'm not sure I could afford right now and a complete set of the Jagwire in the listings says 180g out the box. I'm trying to avoid taking all my cables off to weigh them until I actually plan to replace them rather than having to re-fit and then swap out again or have the bike out of commission whilst ones are ordered so mainly interested in knowing what savings people achieved with various systems?
tubes and ultegra instead of tubulars and a lightweight groupset and you're wanting to make a light bike...?
all inner cables weigh much the same, but that doesn't bother me, i don't use brake cables. it is the ultimate in lightweight performance.
you can save a little by getting i-links, but it won't make a noticable difference. plus, they suck to install and since you're (a) asking quite innane questions and (b) don't sound like you know how to work on a push bike, I would avoid them. save your money for better wheels, tyres, or basically anything that will have a tangible performance impact.
Yes I know, I could save up for new parts but I like what I have and just trying some little things to lighten it up. How about next time you try to be a little less patronising.
Different frames use different amounts of housing, so savings will vary.
I links perform terribly and given that you can't be bothered taking the time to remove your cables to weigh them (or lack the ability to do so) I would suggest that finnicky, over-rated cable housing is probably not ideal for you.
If you want to go fast, get a HRM or a used power meter, some foam rollers and a coach.
If you want to learn about maintenance, take some lessons, or buy a book, or buy a shitty old $100 bike to fiddle around with, or buy some basic tools.
If you want to make your bike lighter and/or nicer to ride, i-links won't do it.
The first part of your post was helpful, the rest pointless as you know nothing about me.
I'm pretty sure from all your comments that you're a total gumby. meh.
I just like the idea of trying to get to a 7kg bike, it's a round number and I'm realistic that it will never be a featherweight bike as I don't have the money to splash on it or that I'll really even notice the 300g difference, I'm simply trying to see where some relatively inexpensive changes in the grand scheme of things might take me.
From FWB (these are estimated total sets with ferrules, cable tips, liners, seals, etc…):
Bungarus 83.1 g
Alligator 102 g
Ashima 131.4 g
Gore UL 129.7 g
Gore Std 144.8 g
Nokon 149.2 g
Shimano 147.3 g
Campagnolo 151.1 g
Of cousre there are other cables, and things can be mixed, but hopfully this can give an idea.
(this link was noted above)
Quality tyres and tubes will save the most gram/$. Other items like light cranks, saddles, seatpost, stems, bars will be more worth the money, time and energy in my experience.
I don't have the exact numbers but this suggestion should be close to the lightest out there without breaking the bank:
Fasi Niro Glide (shift+ brake) outer cables (these are mostly offered complete sets, i.e. with high quality steel cables)
Next step up would be to replace these steel inners with the appropriate Powercordz.
Be gentle on the Niro, they're using aluminium coils so they're not as flex happy as steel ones.
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