Show me Your Tuning!
Moderator: robbosmans
jroy wrote:Since this thread has been dormant for a while, and it and Berk's thread are primarily the reasons I lurked and eventually set up an account:
I'll add my bike. Not really "tuning" more of a fabrication.
Very impressive work. How much did it weigh, is this your first frame build. You should really start its own thread with a build report.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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artray wrote:There is already loads of tuning posts . This is not needed .
Judge!!!
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Keep them coming guys this is awesome!!!!
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NiFTY wrote:jroy wrote:Since this thread has been dormant for a while, and it and Berk's thread are primarily the reasons I lurked and eventually set up an account:
I'll add my bike. Not really "tuning" more of a fabrication.
*clipped*
Very impressive work. How much did it weigh, is this your first frame build. You should really start its own thread with a build report.
Thank you. It was my first build. Frame weighed 1464g including the 113g Paragon dropouts. It has a steel headtube and bottom bracket, and I over built it for safety. Total build as pictured was 7,890g / 17.39 lb
I may do a build thread for the next frames.
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I spy some knobblies in the background of that picture, hows the rigid post / saddle combo perform on a MTB? considering a Berk for my Epic HT...
jroy wrote:Since this thread has been dormant for a while, and it and Berk's thread are primarily the reasons I lurked and eventually set up an account:
I'll add my bike. Not really "tuning" more of a fabrication.
Any plans for a V2? Looks like an impressive first attempt!!
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?
The seatpost-saddle combo works well offroad, but you definitely feel some more trail buzz (you can lower the tire pressure to get some more comfort though). I think it is important to get the right shape otherwise it will be a nightmare. The arione is not that mtb friendly due to the long shape but it is the only saddle that i can survive riding on.
weeracerweenie wrote:
Any plans for a V2? Looks like an impressive first attempt!!
Version #2 is in the works. Geo will be nearly the same but the frame will be full carbon no steel HT and BB or aluminum dropouts. Currently finalizing details before starting the build.
jroy wrote:weeracerweenie wrote:
Any plans for a V2? Looks like an impressive first attempt!!
Version #2 is in the works. Geo will be nearly the same but the frame will be full carbon no steel HT and BB or aluminum dropouts. Currently finalizing details before starting the build.
Then just add eTap and you'll have one clean custom created ride
AZR3 wrote:jroy wrote:weeracerweenie wrote:
Any plans for a V2? Looks like an impressive first attempt!!
Version #2 is in the works. Geo will be nearly the same but the frame will be full carbon no steel HT and BB or aluminum dropouts. Currently finalizing details before starting the build.
Then just add eTap and you'll have one clean custom created ride
That certainly would simplify it. Unfortunately, I've been throwing my whole budget at composites and tooling...
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jroy wrote:Version #2 is in the works. Geo will be nearly the same but the frame will be full carbon no steel HT and BB or aluminum dropouts. Currently finalizing details before starting the build.
Don't forget cable mounts, a bit cleaner than electrical tape
This thread is very inspiring! It even made post here. Long time lurker.
I have one of these cranksets:
The thing is 730ish grams with compact spider/chainrings.
I want to make it lighter. Does anyone knows if the arms are hollow? Cant find
any info on that, but it doesn't say so on any related manuals, literature.
I already stripped the thing with the blade method, but wouldn't mind being more aggressive
to shave grams. I wouldn't care much if I thrash it as a result of this tuning attempt, and to be safe
I will test it on my direct drive trainer before hitting the road, that way I can leave it on my trainer only
bike, generate relatively high wattage with it during sprint drills, and only put it on my "outdoor" bike when I feel confident.
Any suggestions?
-Drill the spindle (sounds bad)
-Drill the carbon (really bad)
-Shave carbon from it, making it look more like the updated version of this crank - it is the old incarnation of sram's S950, rebranded Bontrager race lite x -
I could try to make it more "flat-ish", just like the current S900/S950, but I would only have a shot at it , if someone confirms it is made of solid carbon.
Any thing else I could do to it?
Another note: I cant find any BSA GXP BB lighter than 80 grams. What Am I missing?
I have one of these cranksets:
The thing is 730ish grams with compact spider/chainrings.
I want to make it lighter. Does anyone knows if the arms are hollow? Cant find
any info on that, but it doesn't say so on any related manuals, literature.
I already stripped the thing with the blade method, but wouldn't mind being more aggressive
to shave grams. I wouldn't care much if I thrash it as a result of this tuning attempt, and to be safe
I will test it on my direct drive trainer before hitting the road, that way I can leave it on my trainer only
bike, generate relatively high wattage with it during sprint drills, and only put it on my "outdoor" bike when I feel confident.
Any suggestions?
-Drill the spindle (sounds bad)
-Drill the carbon (really bad)
-Shave carbon from it, making it look more like the updated version of this crank - it is the old incarnation of sram's S950, rebranded Bontrager race lite x -
I could try to make it more "flat-ish", just like the current S900/S950, but I would only have a shot at it , if someone confirms it is made of solid carbon.
Any thing else I could do to it?
Another note: I cant find any BSA GXP BB lighter than 80 grams. What Am I missing?
To the above post; I broke a collar bone as a result of a crankset failure.
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Re: Modifying Carbon cranks, id never touch them in anyway other than stripping paint. I’ve snapped in modified crank arms and got lucky not hurting myself. No reason to increase the risk. Save some $$ and get some better cranks.
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?