You may see the result so far in the pics below. What I need to achieve here is a polished natural aluminum color that is not going to turn grey over time and match the color of this Deda RS01 seat post.
Any hints on the process, like polishing cream and/or clear coat, other? Thanks...
2. Spray the oven cleaner on and let it setup for 30 minutes, rinse off with water and repeat as needed though you may not need to seeing how much anodizing you've removed already.
3. Wet sand using 400->600 grit sandpaper to even the finish look to remove remaining black and logo markings.
4. Final polish with Mothers® Mag & Aluminum polish:
Optional steps if you wish to forgo polishing regularly with above.
1. Clean part well with 90+% isopropyl alcohol.
2. Use a good quality automotive gloss clearcoat spray paint.
Cost? Probably $100
I've done a few sets of Shimano cranks and chainrings; mostly older stuff (9sp),
but also one set of 7800 Dura-Ace.
Yes, Easy Off oven cleaner is much better, quicker and easier than sanding,
and it still might not be too late for you to try it. It may take a long time
to get the fine scratches out, assuming you've marked the aluminium under the
anodizing. If you have scratched the alu, I recommend gradually progressing
to the finest grade of sandpaper your patience can tolerate. Then, use an
electric buffer (or drill with buffing attachment) with (obviously) a buffer compound;
or skip the fine sanding, and try going straight to the buffer.
However, if the buffer compound isn't strong enough to remove the fine
scratches that may be there, you'll probably have to use fine sandpaper (I'm talking
1200, 1500, and maybe even 2000, all wet and dry). After a quick buff, I usually
polish hard with Brasso, then finish off with a chrome/metal polish, such as
Mothers or Meguiar's.
Before i found out about Easy Off, I sanded the first couple of crank-sets
I did, and it was painstaking. I spent hours in front of the tv with very
fine sandpaper, because I found it was more effective than the cheap buffing
compounds i had. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove all the fine
marks, but they still turned out pretty shiny, especially the 105 and
The last couple I did was with Easy Off. What I did was apply the
Easy Off; leave for about 10 mins; polish very hard with Brasso
(I don't have a good buffer); then finish with Mequiar's All Metal Polysh
(yes, the spell it with a 'y' ).
I haven't bothered coating them, so i just give them a quick rub with
the Metal Polysh about once a month.
These are the 7800s that I did.
The photo makes them look a little shinier than they really are.
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I'll counter the previous comments and state: NEVER USE EASY OFF if it pits the aluminum after a while. That's a bit excessive, no?
Easier, safer solution: clean the anodized part in an ultrasonic cleaner with a degreaser (such as the environmentally friendly, citrus-based ZEP Heavy Duty Degreaser).
The anodization will leave completely. No damage to the part, no sandblasting needed, rinses off easy with water, no damage to the environment, no harsh chems, no feces from a bull.
Then proceed with your polishing.
http://hdsupplysolutions.com/wcsstore/B ... 113080.pdf
I've found that you have to leave easy off on for a very long time before pits form.
I like the idea of the ultrasonic cleaner though.
Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection
SWijland wrote:Lye (strong one) didn't work for me. I tried dipping a
couple of DA 7700 cranks in a strong lye solution, but unfortunately the
anodizing came of anything but easily...
Ah yeah, I forgot to add: it's best to test the Easy Off on a small area,
because it doesn't 'agree' with some parts. I also did a set of 7700 cranks
that turned out crap, but another set turned out great. I also did an old
set of Record cranks (I think early '90s) that turned out crap, too.
The 7800 (above) turned out pretty good, but I couldn't prevent the logo coming off.
I've had best results with 9sp 105 and Ultegra.
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