First it helps Im a pilot for an airline and our maintenance team has a lathe... soooo gave them my 104mm spindle with simple instructions.. cut that shoulder off!!
Came back from teaching a groundschool and was given my spindle with no shoulder...
Call local bike shop and pick up a set of SRAM 2.5mm BB30 spacers
Cannondale KP197 bearing kit installed, BUT on the DS I used the SRAM PF30 bearing shield that originally came with the EVO.. it sits slightly taller than the Cannondale shield so took up a little more required space... next install one 2.5mm SRAM spacer, install SRM on and push the whole unit through so its all snug against the bearing shield.. the NDS is a little tight since the spindle has gone through about 1mm more.... so I have the Cannondale KP197 dust shield installed, then a single black spacer Cannondale supplies with the BB30 cranks, then the wavy washer.. NDS crankarm, Tq it down, and I have sufficient clearance, and no drag!
This setup will NOT work with the SRAM PF30 BB system.. you need the Cannondale SRM kit because it has a bevel cut to the lip of the cup.. you need the additional clearance on BOTH sides now since the NDS arm is shifted that little bit more over..
I am going to be trying another tweak to see if I can get the NDS crank out just a little more.. I have the SRAM 2.5mm spacer in there on top of the SRAM dustshield which is a little thicker than the Cannondale one... Im thinking I can even get the SRM a hair tighter in which would allow me to shift everything left a little... I think if I remove the SRAM washer, go back to the cannondale with a single black washer, and then the 2.5 I can tighten it up a bit...
In any case, its gonna work, but I will still get the new 109mm new spindles when it comes out...
I would suggest you consider trying to order a new SISL2 spindle (KP248). Alternately, you could search a local machinist to modify the existing spindle to remove the shoulder off the 104mm as dicussed here.Ufgators wrote:It's Been recommended to me that I order and use the cannondale srm specific press fit cups instead of the hsc press fit assembly.
Since I suffered similar issues with a Ridley last year, I can answer yes, you should be able to as thats what I did but I cant recall what tool I used to press out the bearings (either Park Tool BBT-30.3 or BBT-90.3). Also, my experience with the alloy Cannondale PF-30 bearing cups, once installed/Loctited into the bottom bracket shell, you will find it difficult to remove them without a tool such as the BBT-30.3.Ufgators wrote:My question is, can I pop out the ceramic bearings in the hsc assembly and use them in the cannondale aluminum srm cups?
I still needed to space the SRM on the Driveside as I did with my setup.. Its still necessary to use the KP197 SRM bearing assembly which was conveniently included... the setup on the drive side calls for the dustshield and a 2.5mm spacer, then the crank.. I still needed to add 2 grey spacers in there as well to give the SRM clearance from the BB shell... On the Non driveside I have the dustshield, wavy washer, 2 spacers as well, then the 5mm spacer, then crankarm... the wavy washer is compressed to just before it is not flat..
I have an SRM question I will pose here, and start a new thread in case... I needed to change the crankarm obviously from the Hollowgram SiSL to the new SiSL2... I have the lockring Tqd down per spec... when I do a zero offset now, the previous value was about 431 or so.... now with the new arm installed its 533... is this anything to be concerned about, is my SRM all out of calibration now??
This worked fine, although the inner ring adjustment for the front mech was always borderline- the cage of the mech would hit the seat tube before it completed its travel.
I've swapped to a wireless, 110 bcd SRM, which is physically a lot smaller than the older SRM.
I installed it using the SRM bearing shield but the standard axle this time- I was going to use the standard bearing shield, but the back of the SRM case just grazed the BB shell, so I swapped to the different shield.
Now, having just looked at it again whilst the cranks spin beautifully, the rings have moved inward by quite a way- more than the 0.5mm than I expected.
I'm unsure how this is going to affect the front mech- the battery is charging so currently I cannot experiment.
I'll experiment when I have some charge.
I was wondering if anyone else had experience this, and how they set theirs up?
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