When you operate a mechanical system, I do not believe you will operate the shifter as hard you can and therefore there is a little finesse with the shifter and crank movement.
Kinda like this, My electric shifter will jamb the chain to the big ring everytime I do not rotate the crank, why is that?
Move the crank with some force and it will shift. Soon we will get an answer from the poster, but until then, we all will be bashing a question we really do not understand fully.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 4
I finished the installation of a Record v3 EPS GS on a new Wilier frame last night and was experiencing the same setup issues when shifting onto the large chainring (50-34 Chorus crankset).
It literally wedges the chain between the large chainring and the FD plate... and I really don't want to try this under force!
I have fitted a fair few derailleurs in the past so I don't *think* it's an error in the installation... the plate alignment is parallel to the chainring and it sits c1.5mm above the teeth at the front of the mech (as normal). I have also tried increasing/decreasing this distance to see if that helps, but to no avail.
However, I couldn't help but notice that this 1.5mm distance does increase quite a lot towards the rear of the mech which makes me think that the frame's braze-on plate might be slightly out of alignment - a little bit like this example... http://cdn.media.cyclingnews.com/2010/0 ... ur_600.jpg
Could this be causing the issues perhaps?
Adamrushmer wrote:It literally wedges the chain between the large chainring and the FD plate... and I really don't want to try this under force!
Trying to slowly complete a front chainring shift can result in this. Think about it: the chain won't climb the outer ring without first getting caught on a shift pin. If you try to shift at a point where the chain isn't coming into contact with a pin and are only slowly spinning the crankset such that a pin doesn't quickly come into place to lift the chain, the chain will get wedged against the chainring by the derailleur. I've done with mechanical groups and it is a bit surprising and seems harmful at first. But simply spinning the crankset will complete the shift without any damage. It only seems forceful because there is no momentum with the cranks. At high speeds, the same thing is happening but it's over in a split second.
- going from 39 to 53 would give me for 50% of the time a chaindrop (FD several times adjusted).
- Sometimes if i pushed the button for changing gear, from 16 to 15 for example, the RD would not respond (especially in rain) and i have to push it 2 times to respond.
- When in 53/15 and going to 53/16 the chain would take ages to do it.. Several times adjusted
Mockenrue wrote:I have several bikes with EPS, V2 and V3. Thousands of kilometres between them and none of these problems. It is no more difficult to set up than di2 IMO.
Set up is indeed no more difficult than di2. Maybe i had just bad luck and a bad unit.
One thing i didn't like with the EPS was the charging port/cable/pins. Damn first time i broke those pins. Bought a new charging unit and since then no problems because i was very carefully.
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