Weight Weenies

Appreciate if someone knows if the Scott Foil fork is supposed to have a crown race?

Cleaning out the headset bearings etc...decided to pull the bearings out to clean/grease them.

Hmmm...no crown race??

Just wondering, seems odd that the bearing is sitting right on the crown of the fork.

With that said, it would have to be some unique crown race for it to fit, because it tapers the entire way down to the fork shoulder. So not sure what kind of weird crown race it would be.

Having build up another bike with a Ritchey drop in headset, it had a crown race. But I know this is proprietary.

Thanks

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I'm fairly certain it doesn't take one similar to giants OD2 fork but I will check a foil at work tomorrow

The crown race is molded into the fork, it doesn't need an additional one.

It certaintly appears that way. There isn't a typical shoulder where a crown race would seat onto/pressed on. It does sit nicely on the bearing and flush nearly to the frame as you would expect.

Oh well, just greased it up...and seems OK.

Thanks for the replies!

no crown race on either of my Foil forks.

Ok, thanks for the confirmation also on this, appreciate it.


One other thing. Which side do you run your derailleur cables?

From what I've seen on the internet and photos. the FD/Left shifter runs into the left side of the frame, and the RD/Right shifter is fed through the right side.

Seems like you could do either, cross over would seem to make more sense, but the rear brake also goes on the right side of the frame.

Thanks

2011 Cervelo R3s don't have a race. Bearing sits on the fork.

Keep the cable routing as you said; left for front and right for rear, it enters the bottom bracket cable guide with a clean angle this way and shifts very nicely.

That is what I ended up doing. Glad I had a pick tool and some technique to get the cables I changed through the BB area.

It looks like the guide wanted it as you said also and reduces the chance of any cable crossing/friction. Odd how there are no liners inside the frame to help out on this.

Seems to be working fine and after you poke and work on a technique, it becomes less painful to run the cables...but still not the most fun I've done!!

One issue is I use Jagwire cables. The housings are a little stiff compared to Gore. Down the road I might spend the money on the Gore ultralight. The housing are thinner/more flexible I've found. So making those tight angles/curves to the same side from the bar tape to the internal routing is easier and not as difficult. Of course, when riding you don't notice the difference. But when in the bike stand, if you don't have the cable lengths done just right, the steering wheel will go to one side slightly due to the stiff cable housings trying to straighten themselves out.

Thanks

Bought a Scott Foil frame 2nd hand and built it up. It's the first generation. I didn't have much time on my hands, so I've been riding it like this:
Pretty sure it's the wrong bearing. Need to get new ones. Online I see these advertised as fitting a first gen Foil:
Can anyone confirm if this is correct? This the bearing that came with the frame, for what it's worth:
Definitely different.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers all,
Kurt

Small update. Got my hands on the ACB460H7 bearing, identical to what was in the frame when I got it.

Picture below indicates this:
Bearing sits flush in the frame:
Fits on the tapered "crown race" area, although it sits perhaps a little high?
All this gives me 3 ideas....

1. Find a bearing with the same od and slightly bigger id so it sits lower on the crown race.

2. Look around... is there a tool that would remove a small amount of material from the crown race or in a more risky move, from the HT of the frame (ie internally where the bearing seats, not cutting down the HT itself)

3. Live with it haha! I would normally do this, but there's a bunch of dirt that's got in there, so I would like to close up the gap if possible.

I will update this thread as I go, but as above, if anyone has gone through similar dramas let me know.

Kurt

Edit: measured the headtube recess. Left to right is 46.05mm, fore and aft is 46.25mm. Keep in mind this is only using verniers, so the absolute readings may be off, but there was definitely some play fore and aft once the calipers were flush with surfaces left to right.

Maybe some idee; put a 1 mm gasket between frame and fork.?

Live with it. Most of my bikes have had a gap like this.
Make sure the bearings properly greased and seated, then just run a rag through the gap (that is designed in) to clean out the mess. TBH, you're never going to stop the rubbish getting in. So a bit of space do it doesn't destroy your frame/fork is probably a sensible idea...

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westbrook cycles has a pretty extensive part listing for Scott bikes going back a number of years. I'd be careful to get both the right bearings and in general working on this part of the bike - the carbon molded bearing 'cups' in the heat tube are delicate on these frames and I've seen issues with them - it's not a repairable part (I've asked Calfee).