Scott Foil Crown Race?

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Zigmeister
Posts: 938
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

Appreciate if someone knows if the Scott Foil fork is supposed to have a crown race?

Cleaning out the headset bearings etc...decided to pull the bearings out to clean/grease them.

Hmmm...no crown race??

Just wondering, seems odd that the bearing is sitting right on the crown of the fork.

With that said, it would have to be some unique crown race for it to fit, because it tapers the entire way down to the fork shoulder. So not sure what kind of weird crown race it would be.

Having build up another bike with a Ritchey drop in headset, it had a crown race. But I know this is proprietary.

Thanks

yeagermeister
Posts: 172
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: Utah

by yeagermeister

I'm fairly certain it doesn't take one similar to giants OD2 fork but I will check a foil at work tomorrow

by Weenie


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clarkson
Posts: 190
Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 12:23 am

by clarkson

The crown race is molded into the fork, it doesn't need an additional one.

Zigmeister
Posts: 938
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

It certaintly appears that way. There isn't a typical shoulder where a crown race would seat onto/pressed on. It does sit nicely on the bearing and flush nearly to the frame as you would expect.

Oh well, just greased it up...and seems OK.

Thanks for the replies!
Last edited by Frankie - B on Wed Aug 15, 2012 7:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: 2nd pm sent to poster about quoting.

pawnii
Posts: 330
Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:54 am
Location: Australia

by pawnii

no crown race on either of my Foil forks.
2012 Scott Foil Premium

Zigmeister
Posts: 938
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

Ok, thanks for the confirmation also on this, appreciate it.


One other thing. Which side do you run your derailleur cables?

From what I've seen on the internet and photos. the FD/Left shifter runs into the left side of the frame, and the RD/Right shifter is fed through the right side.

Seems like you could do either, cross over would seem to make more sense, but the rear brake also goes on the right side of the frame.

Thanks

CerveloMikey
Posts: 74
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:20 pm
Location: Burbank, CA

by CerveloMikey

2011 Cervelo R3s don't have a race. Bearing sits on the fork.
R2.5 / R3 / S-Works 29er (20 lbs) / S-Works SL4 Di2 (14.7 lbs)

yeagermeister
Posts: 172
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: Utah

by yeagermeister

Keep the cable routing as you said; left for front and right for rear, it enters the bottom bracket cable guide with a clean angle this way and shifts very nicely.

Zigmeister
Posts: 938
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

That is what I ended up doing. Glad I had a pick tool and some technique to get the cables I changed through the BB area.

It looks like the guide wanted it as you said also and reduces the chance of any cable crossing/friction. Odd how there are no liners inside the frame to help out on this.

Seems to be working fine and after you poke and work on a technique, it becomes less painful to run the cables...but still not the most fun I've done!!

One issue is I use Jagwire cables. The housings are a little stiff compared to Gore. Down the road I might spend the money on the Gore ultralight. The housing are thinner/more flexible I've found. So making those tight angles/curves to the same side from the bar tape to the internal routing is easier and not as difficult. Of course, when riding you don't notice the difference. But when in the bike stand, if you don't have the cable lengths done just right, the steering wheel will go to one side slightly due to the stiff cable housings trying to straighten themselves out.

Thanks

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Kurt1980
Posts: 319
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 9:41 am

by Kurt1980

Bought a Scott Foil frame 2nd hand and built it up. It's the first generation. I didn't have much time on my hands, so I've been riding it like this:
20220525_121906.jpg
Pretty sure it's the wrong bearing. Need to get new ones. Online I see these advertised as fitting a first gen Foil:
Screenshot_20220525-122354_Chrome.jpg
Can anyone confirm if this is correct? This the bearing that came with the frame, for what it's worth:
20220525_123656.jpg
20220525_123648.jpg
Definitely different.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers all,
Kurt

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Kurt1980
Posts: 319
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2020 9:41 am

by Kurt1980

Small update. Got my hands on the ACB460H7 bearing, identical to what was in the frame when I got it.

Picture below indicates this:
20220526_141408.jpg
Bearing sits flush in the frame:
20220526_141923.jpg
Fits on the tapered "crown race" area, although it sits perhaps a little high?
20220526_142206.jpg
All this gives me 3 ideas....

1. Find a bearing with the same od and slightly bigger id so it sits lower on the crown race.

2. Look around... is there a tool that would remove a small amount of material from the crown race or in a more risky move, from the HT of the frame (ie internally where the bearing seats, not cutting down the HT itself)

3. Live with it haha! I would normally do this, but there's a bunch of dirt that's got in there, so I would like to close up the gap if possible.

I will update this thread as I go, but as above, if anyone has gone through similar dramas let me know.

Kurt

Edit: measured the headtube recess. Left to right is 46.05mm, fore and aft is 46.25mm. Keep in mind this is only using verniers, so the absolute readings may be off, but there was definitely some play fore and aft once the calipers were flush with surfaces left to right.

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Orlok
Posts: 225
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 12:36 pm
Location: Almere - Nederland

by Orlok

Maybe some idee; put a 1 mm gasket between frame and fork.?
Once comes a time that you'll have a tailwind :D
Pinarello F10 - Ultegra 8050 Di2 - Carbonspeed C38 Tubeless

ghostinthemachine
Posts: 780
Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 9:18 pm

by ghostinthemachine

Live with it. Most of my bikes have had a gap like this.
Make sure the bearings properly greased and seated, then just run a rag through the gap (that is designed in) to clean out the mess. TBH, you're never going to stop the rubbish getting in. So a bit of space do it doesn't destroy your frame/fork is probably a sensible idea...

stevesbike
Posts: 324
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:33 pm

by stevesbike

westbrook cycles has a pretty extensive part listing for Scott bikes going back a number of years. I'd be careful to get both the right bearings and in general working on this part of the bike - the carbon molded bearing 'cups' in the heat tube are delicate on these frames and I've seen issues with them - it's not a repairable part (I've asked Calfee).

by Weenie


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