I ordered 2 set of these rims and plan to build up shortly. Rim weights varied greatly! Fronts 263g and 273g, rear 261g and 291g...
They look good - expect those who have built them up will reply shortly.
They built up nice and straight and they are proving to be very durable. I have raced a crit on bumpy old brick streets and have hit a couple of pretty good potholes with them and they still look like new with no signs of problems.
Braking surface is ok. I do feel some pulsing at the lever, but not a lot more than I have come to expect from the high end, name brand carbon rims. Braking power/modulation in dry conditions with the supplied pads are also ok. It is by no means on par with aluminum, but about average for carbon. Note: I live in Michigan, so I am not doing any mountain decents.
Braking in the wet with the supplied pads is terrible. I have only been caught racing in the rain once with this setup, but is was scarry. Felt like I was riding cross with cantis in the mud. Another issue I am having is spokes coming loose. This isn't really the fault of the rim, but rather the hub and lacing pattern I chose. I plan to rebuild them this winter with a differnt lacing pattern in an attempt to eliminate the issue.
Overall, I am very happy with the rims and would highly recommend them.
http://cerrol.wordpress.com (my cyclingblog)
I'm using SS Yellows and the braking in the dry is alright. Its OK in the wet once you've got rid of surface water. They performed well in the Alps.
From my research they are the same rims as the FFWD F2R. The specs on the PX and FFWD websites is identical.
I plan on building mine up very similar to yours. I have an AC micro 58 for the front and C-4 180 for the rear. Also looking at radial for the front and 2X drive and non drive side on the rear…
Dalai wrote:@yz387 What was the lacing pattern and what lacing pattern will you use on rebuilding?
I built mine on BHS hubs which have a large disparity between the DS and NDS bracing angle. I used 2X on the DS and decided to use radial, heads out on the NDS to try to even out the spoke tension. However, I was only able to get NDS spoke tension to about 50% of DS. Over time, I have been having issues with the NDS spokes loosening up. When I rebuild, I plan to go to 1X heads in on the DS to get a wider angle on the DS. I am still unsure what I will do on the NDS, maybe 2X. Regardless of what I choose for the NDS, going to heads in on the DS should really help even out the spoke tension.
As for the graphics, yes, they are under the clear coat.
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