They feel lighter than they are (rotational mass)
Omni Cassette, 100g or so, great value, better than scram
Buy a second hand crankset with BB save 300g, even FSA SLK that is a couple of years old will be fine, but off ebay qnd do some research (one of my bikes has a Deda D-power (no - you haven't heard of it!) $200 for 560 grams plus a old fashioned ISIS BB (80+g Tokin)
Your chain is fine, carbon bars from a Williams or someone like that save 100g
- in the industry
- Posts: 3553
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
conti Race 28 supersonic inner tube - 50g each.
As for rims I would build with Stan alpha if the budget allows or with DT Swiss RR415 is you needed a cheaper rim. The Kinlin rims while more aero are heavier so you have a trade off. Weight loss at the tyre/rim is worth much more than weight loss from lacl of spokes or at the hub. A miche cassette is 250g which is lighter than what you have.
Since money is tight I would adopt a different approach. Ride the bike and save the money. When something wears out, if it is a wear item, replace it with an Ultegra level part. If it's a non wear item get the Dura Ace or boutique part. Keeping the bike running well is what you need to prioritise. If you compare my wife's bike built by Condor with other bike shops' efforts, you soon realise that the mechanic has a big influence. Although her bike is mid-range, the cabling and bar tape is perfect, the brakes are smooth and shifting works perfectly in all gears. Thus it's nicer to ride than a much more expensive but badly set up bike.
When i used to race a lot (i.e. 5-10x more miles than now, but similar level of maintenance time spent), I used to find that pieces would wear out very quickly. Only brake calipers, stems and front derailleurs seemed to last more than 2 or 3 seasons. And I used to win races on a bike which I'd now consider marginal for riding to the shops, so it's not about the bike.
As for immediate priorities, I would start by ensuring the bike fits properly and that the contact points are the ones which fit / you like. Put good tyres and latex or Supersonic tubes in, then leave it at that. Avoid the lightweight brakes suggested. Downhill Dura Ace (or any decent groupset) brakes will allow more confident descending and faster braking so you easily save more time than you lost on the way up.
I like doing all the work myself after building an MTB ages ago from scratch. Agreed on the bike fit, this is why I'm paused on bar and stem. Not sure I like the bars much so far as you can't reach the brakes easily on the drops.
See my complete build here:
Here's my wheel choice so far as I'm in the UK.... What do you think, all of this stuff seems very well reviewed?
NOVATEC A291SB / F482SB Road Bike Bicycle Hubs 245g 75g
20 \ 24 - available from ebay - Circa £80
Rims - not sure yet but probably one from Halo or IRD (claims are that Kinlin make them all)
Halo Mercury 465grams aero 30mm deep
Circa £80 for two rims
Spokes - CX Sapim?? Not sure yet circa £90 for 20 \ 28 wheel build. Seems expensive but they are areo.
- Similar Topics
- Last post
- 13 Replies
- 790 Views
Last post by Marin
Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:21 pm
- 5 Replies
- 1449 Views
Last post by charlieboy52000
Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:26 pm
- 19 Replies
- 1328 Views
Last post by sadisticnoob
Fri Apr 13, 2018 6:10 pm
- 5 Replies
- 883 Views
Last post by kidrob
Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:02 am
- 7 Replies
- 964 Views
Last post by Bigger Gear
Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:40 pm