Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL8
Moderator: robbosmans
- stevec1975
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:37 pm
- Location: London
@GONEFORARIDE: Standard wet sand, starting with 200 grit > 400 > 800 > 1200 to get the fine lines out. Go easy on them, then polish with T-Cut. Haven't touched them in 2 years and still as shiny as new.
S-Works SL8 - 6.19Kg/13.71Ib
Cervelo S3 Disc - 6.78Kg/14.94Ib
Scott Addict RC - 6.92Kg/15.25Ib
OnOne - Free Ranger - 8.68Kg/19.1Ib
Scott CR1 - 5.69Kg/12.54Ib
Cervelo S3 Disc - 6.78Kg/14.94Ib
Scott Addict RC - 6.92Kg/15.25Ib
OnOne - Free Ranger - 8.68Kg/19.1Ib
Scott CR1 - 5.69Kg/12.54Ib
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- Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2019 9:21 am
- Location: Austria
Do you guys know what the height is for all the stock spacers?
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- Posts: 157
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 2:05 am
Thank you, mate.stevec1975 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 21, 2024 5:53 pm@GONEFORARIDE: Standard wet sand, starting with 200 grit > 400 > 800 > 1200 to get the fine lines out. Go easy on them, then polish with T-Cut. Haven't touched them in 2 years and still as shiny as new.
Thank you for this. What process did you use to get the quarq dfour logos removed and blacked out?stevec1975 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 21, 2024 5:53 pm@GONEFORARIDE: Standard wet sand, starting with 200 grit > 400 > 800 > 1200 to get the fine lines out. Go easy on them, then polish with T-Cut. Haven't touched them in 2 years and still as shiny as new.
- stevec1975
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:37 pm
- Location: London
The Quarq logos come off when sanding (all you doing is removing the clearcoat, then the logos are exposed for removal with a little bit more sanding)
S-Works SL8 - 6.19Kg/13.71Ib
Cervelo S3 Disc - 6.78Kg/14.94Ib
Scott Addict RC - 6.92Kg/15.25Ib
OnOne - Free Ranger - 8.68Kg/19.1Ib
Scott CR1 - 5.69Kg/12.54Ib
Cervelo S3 Disc - 6.78Kg/14.94Ib
Scott Addict RC - 6.92Kg/15.25Ib
OnOne - Free Ranger - 8.68Kg/19.1Ib
Scott CR1 - 5.69Kg/12.54Ib
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2023 2:48 pm
We have two SL8s in our household and the seatpost needed to be cut down on both. But I didn't use a dremel, but rather a drill. I purchased a bit designed for carbon and it worked great, not sure you'll find that bit for a dremel. Regular steel bits may not give a good result. I did the first post using a drill press, which is ideal. I didn't have access to the drill press the second time around and used a cordless drill and it went fine, but I've also got a lot of experience with tools.
And of course use a guide and a blade designed for carbon to cut down the length.
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2023 2:48 pm
The mandatory top and bottom spacers add 10.6mm, and the max spacers you can use is 35mm, so total stack is 45.6mm.scapewalker wrote: ↑Fri Jun 21, 2024 10:24 pmDo you guys know what the height is for all the stock spacers?
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2023 2:48 pm
Much appreciated!stevec1975 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 22, 2024 11:24 amThe Quarq logos come off when sanding (all you doing is removing the clearcoat, then the logos are exposed for removal with a little bit more sanding)
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- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2023 3:08 am
This is what you need to use. Mask the side you're keeping with masking tape. This will provide the cleanest cut aside from a circular saw with the same type of blade.fastforageezer wrote: ↑Sat Jun 22, 2024 2:45 pmWe have two SL8s in our household and the seatpost needed to be cut down on both. But I didn't use a dremel, but rather a drill. I purchased a bit designed for carbon and it worked great, not sure you'll find that bit for a dremel. Regular steel bits may not give a good result. I did the first post using a drill press, which is ideal. I didn't have access to the drill press the second time around and used a cordless drill and it went fine, but I've also got a lot of experience with tools.
And of course use a guide and a blade designed for carbon to cut down the length.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-456-Reinf ... X0DER&th=1
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- Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2023 2:48 pm
Using a power tool such as a Dremel to cut down a seatpost by hand without any sort of guide is risky unless you have good skills and are experienced with the tool. It's very easy to mess up and ruin the seatpost. It's much safer to use a hacksaw with an appropriate fine tooth blade and a saw guide. You can get decent saw guides relatively inexpensively on Amazon or similar. It's not as if the Dremel is really going to save you much time anyway, and you're much more likely to have to do some cleanup with a file or sandpaper.boyce89976 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 23, 2024 4:08 amThis is what you need to use. Mask the side you're keeping with masking tape. This will provide the cleanest cut aside from a circular saw with the same type of blade.fastforageezer wrote: ↑Sat Jun 22, 2024 2:45 pmWe have two SL8s in our household and the seatpost needed to be cut down on both. But I didn't use a dremel, but rather a drill. I purchased a bit designed for carbon and it worked great, not sure you'll find that bit for a dremel. Regular steel bits may not give a good result. I did the first post using a drill press, which is ideal. I didn't have access to the drill press the second time around and used a cordless drill and it went fine, but I've also got a lot of experience with tools.
And of course use a guide and a blade designed for carbon to cut down the length.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-456-Reinf ... X0DER&th=1
The two holes will need to be re-drilled if you are using Shimano, they aren't necessary with SRAM. That's what I was referring to about the drill and the bit.
ETA: If you do insist on using a hand power tool (unlike the vast majority of professional mechanics), the tool is going to throw some toxic dust around so do the work in an appropriate environment with a respirator quality mask. Make sure the post is clamped securely and first do a trial cut further down the seatpost to see if you can get a square and even cut.
Last edited by fastforageezer on Sun Jun 23, 2024 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks for sharing. I am also looking to get ti bolts for my 5 bottle cage bolts. Do you know how much do the factory ones weigh? Thanks in advanceAryeh wrote: ↑Thu Jun 20, 2024 9:32 pmTi bolts for the bottle cages are heavier than the ones that come with the bike. The factory bolts are alloy.RhettLeeMacau wrote:This is my build and currently my frameset is sent to the workshop for the custom paint job.
I'll start the build after it comes back. I've opened up a post for it. Can't wait to see the final weight!
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