Are you sure? I don't see anything on there. To clarify, I'm looking for this, but for the Venge stem.
https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/spec ... nt-spacer/
Moderator: robbosmans
Are you sure? I don't see anything on there. To clarify, I'm looking for this, but for the Venge stem.
Sorry, I misunderstood what you were looking for. I'm not very familiar with the Venge stem but with the amount of custom 3d printed designs on that site, you might ask them if they would do a comission to create what you are looking for.LanceLegstrong wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 12:12 amAre you sure? I don't see anything on there. To clarify, I'm looking for this, but for the Venge stem.
https://www.racewaredirect.co/shop/spec ... nt-spacer/
My local shop had to build one up last year with Ultegra 11spd mechanical, and it was a huge pain in the ass to run 4 cables through the 3D printed SL7 cap. It can be done, but not something you want to do often. It was a 52cm frameset, so a larger frameset with longer stem might be easier. When he built up my 2022 Allez with 3D printed SL cap and Shimano 12spd Di2, it was a night and day difference.
Thanks for response. It's already cabled, so hoping they can just reverse the outer cables in towards the handlebars... 56cm frame with 140mm stem, so plenty of space there!Vuong05 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 4:01 pmMy local shop had to build one up last year with Ultegra 11spd mechanical, and it was a huge pain in the ass to run 4 cables through the 3D printed SL7 cap. It can be done, but not something you want to do often. It was a 52cm frameset, so a larger frameset with longer stem might be easier. When he built up my 2022 Allez with 3D printed SL cap and Shimano 12spd Di2, it was a night and day difference.
Cheers.
I did it this weekend, my starting point was the standard 105-equiped comp model. Fitting the cables through the 3D printed portion was annoying, I had to modify the print by removing a bit of material to make space. Other than that, the toughest part for me was working with the existing cables/hoses. I didn't want to replace cables/hoses (because I'm cheap), so working with the lengths that I had was tricky. I had to cut the ends of the hydraulic hoses in order to remove the nuts/barbs/olives and allow them to pass through the holes on the stock headset cap, but that reduction in length made everything VERY tight on re-assembly. The whole thing was so tight that the Tarmac spacers don't seem to want to line up quite perfectly, but I'm fairly happy with the result for the moment.
Good to see. I've booked mine in with a mechanic on Friday next week. Will post pictures once done. Fingers crossed they're happy with the faffWWerreWW wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 10:28 pmI did it this weekend, my starting point was the standard 105-equiped comp model. Fitting the cables through the 3D printed portion was annoying, I had to modify the print by removing a bit of material to make space. Other than that, the toughest part for me was working with the existing cables/hoses. I didn't want to replace cables/hoses (because I'm cheap), so working with the lengths that I had was tricky. I had to cut the ends of the hydraulic hoses in order to remove the nuts/barbs/olives and allow them to pass through the holes on the stock headset cap, but that reduction in length made everything VERY tight on re-assembly. The whole thing was so tight that the Tarmac spacers don't seem to want to line up quite perfectly, but I'm fairly happy with the result for the moment. PXL_20230320_065544839.jpg
PXL_20230320_065648908.jpg
PXL_20230320_065209481-01.jpeg
PXL_20230320_065238540.MP-01.jpeg
In the future you can use a dremel type rotary tool to cut the olive length wise 2-3 times, and simply replace it with a new one without cutting the lines. You can also leave the barb in place and reuse it with this method.
That's a great tip, thank you! It was my first time messing with hydraulic lines, so I wasn't quite brave enough to try something like that.JaeOne3345 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 8:50 pmIn the future you can use a dremel type rotary tool to cut the olive length wise 2-3 times, and simply replace it with a new one without cutting the lines. You can also leave the barb in place and reuse it with this method.
No problem! Takes a steady hand but it's fairly easy. The finer the cutting attachment the better. Don't forget the eyepro.
WWerreWW wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 10:28 pmI did it this weekend, my starting point was the standard 105-equiped comp model. Fitting the cables through the 3D printed portion was annoying, I had to modify the print by removing a bit of material to make space. Other than that, the toughest part for me was working with the existing cables/hoses. I didn't want to replace cables/hoses (because I'm cheap), so working with the lengths that I had was tricky. I had to cut the ends of the hydraulic hoses in order to remove the nuts/barbs/olives and allow them to pass through the holes on the stock headset cap, but that reduction in length made everything VERY tight on re-assembly. The whole thing was so tight that the Tarmac spacers don't seem to want to line up quite perfectly, but I'm fairly happy with the result for the moment. PXL_20230320_065544839.jpg
PXL_20230320_065648908.jpg
PXL_20230320_065209481-01.jpeg
PXL_20230320_065238540.MP-01.jpeg
That may be becuase you have yours totally slammed, mine has a few spacers which seems to help. Ah well, at least you got the cooler colour!SamTCC wrote: ↑Fri Apr 07, 2023 8:18 pmWWerreWW wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 10:28 pmI did it this weekend, my starting point was the standard 105-equiped comp model. Fitting the cables through the 3D printed portion was annoying, I had to modify the print by removing a bit of material to make space. Other than that, the toughest part for me was working with the existing cables/hoses. I didn't want to replace cables/hoses (because I'm cheap), so working with the lengths that I had was tricky. I had to cut the ends of the hydraulic hoses in order to remove the nuts/barbs/olives and allow them to pass through the holes on the stock headset cap, but that reduction in length made everything VERY tight on re-assembly. The whole thing was so tight that the Tarmac spacers don't seem to want to line up quite perfectly, but I'm fairly happy with the result for the moment. PXL_20230320_065544839.jpg
PXL_20230320_065648908.jpg
PXL_20230320_065209481-01.jpeg
PXL_20230320_065238540.MP-01.jpeg
The mechanic found it too tight so stuck with standard cover![]()
A0EA0A67-6352-4EE9-9882-0231A9471935.jpeg
A5C4494E-9AAD-4589-A5F7-BCF1039D5339.jpeg