Chain lubricants

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.

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CyclingGiraffe
Posts: 99
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2020 10:04 pm

by CyclingGiraffe

RideRunSwim wrote:
Fri May 14, 2021 8:56 pm

Thanks, did you let the Boeshield dry overnight?

I am also looking at Silva Synergetic but am confused. Is it for dry or wet conditions?

I only plan on riding in good weather, but wasn't sure if it was for that purpose since it's described as a "wet lube"
I tried both letting Boeshield dry overnight before wiping down (which I believe is per the official instructions on the bottle) as well as shorter time periods (immediately, a couple hours, etc.) and I didn't really see much of a difference.

I believe Silca Synergetic is all purpose, but is a "wet" lube in the context that it oil-based, as opposed to "dry" like wax or some teflon lubes. I use it both wet and dry conditions. I chose Synergetic because I want good performance for my nice gear, but I'm not fanatical about my chain looking like it is absolutely clean and silver and I just can't be bothered to faff around with the whole hot waxing process. Synergetic marketing clearly targets me as its primary demographic!

RideRunSwim
Posts: 75
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 3:57 pm

by RideRunSwim

CyclingGiraffe wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 12:29 am
I tried both letting Boeshield dry overnight before wiping down (which I believe is per the official instructions on the bottle) as well as shorter time periods (immediately, a couple hours, etc.) and I didn't really see much of a difference.

I believe Silca Synergetic is all purpose, but is a "wet" lube in the context that it oil-based, as opposed to "dry" like wax or some teflon lubes. I use it both wet and dry conditions. I chose Synergetic because I want good performance for my nice gear, but I'm not fanatical about my chain looking like it is absolutely clean and silver and I just can't be bothered to faff around with the whole hot waxing process. Synergetic marketing clearly targets me as its primary demographic!
Sounds like me as well, don't have the space or motivation for a wax setup either

by Weenie


Shmitt
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:52 pm

by Shmitt

RideRunSwim wrote:
Fri May 14, 2021 8:56 pm
CyclingGiraffe wrote:
Fri May 14, 2021 7:41 pm
RideRunSwim wrote:
Fri May 14, 2021 1:39 am
Has any tried using Boeshield with Sram Axs? I am about to finish up my bottle of finish line dry and want to try something "better", without getting into chain waxing.
Currently using Silca's Synergetic, which I like -- simple drip on, wipe off and keeps the chain quiet for well over a week and much easier to wipe off the excess without tenacious gunky buildup.
Thanks, did you let the Boeshield dry overnight?

I am also looking at Silva Synergetic but am confused. Is it for dry or wet conditions?

I only plan on riding in good weather, but wasn't sure if it was for that purpose since it's described as a "wet lube"
I am also interested in this thread. it is known that the so-called "wet oil" can be used in various conditions, not only when it is wet. For me, the priority is good lubrication and silence.

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Lewn777
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

Dry conditions: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Hot bath of molten speed wax. Light rain, extra lube chain with squirt or similar wax based lube.
Wet conditions/winter: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Then liberal application of Morgan Blue and wipe off excess.

RideRunSwim
Posts: 75
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 3:57 pm

by RideRunSwim

Lewn777 wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 8:50 pm
Dry conditions: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Hot bath of molten speed wax. Light rain, extra lube chain with squirt or similar wax based lube.
Wet conditions/winter: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Then liberal application of Morgan Blue and wipe off excess.
Don't you have to removed the chain for this? No thanks. Some of us would rather spend the time riding and don't have the space.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 7742
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

RideRunSwim wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 9:53 pm

Don't you have to removed the chain for this? No thanks. Some of us would rather spend the time riding and don't have the space.

Chains sit in inventory for unspecified amounts of time so they leave the factory with a thick/sticky coating of goop/protectant. Those goops are somewhat lubricious, but very viscous...if you don't care about efficiency, then go ahead and don't strip that stuff off. Just know that you are probably diminishing the life of your chain in the long run because sticky goo attracts hard contaminants.
Last edited by TobinHatesYou on Sat May 15, 2021 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Lewn777
Posts: 1076
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

RideRunSwim wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 9:53 pm
Lewn777 wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 8:50 pm
Dry conditions: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Hot bath of molten speed wax. Light rain, extra lube chain with squirt or similar wax based lube.
Wet conditions/winter: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Then liberal application of Morgan Blue and wipe off excess.
Don't you have to removed the chain for this? No thanks. Some of us would rather spend the time riding and don't have the space.
Yeah, I understand I currently do 50-60 hours of work a week. But removing the chain yields best results, nothing we can do about that. :noidea:

RideRunSwim
Posts: 75
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 3:57 pm

by RideRunSwim

Lewn777 wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 10:50 pm
RideRunSwim wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 9:53 pm
Lewn777 wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 8:50 pm
Dry conditions: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Hot bath of molten speed wax. Light rain, extra lube chain with squirt or similar wax based lube.
Wet conditions/winter: Dura-Ace chain remove OEM lube with petrol/degreaser and rinse with boiling water and dry. Then liberal application of Morgan Blue and wipe off excess.
Don't you have to removed the chain for this? No thanks. Some of us would rather spend the time riding and don't have the space.
Yeah, I understand I currently do 50-60 hours of work a week. But removing the chain yields best results, nothing we can do about that. :noidea:
That's cool man, we all busy. But some of us live in apartments with kids, no space or time for waxing, guess it's Silca synergistic for me.

Hexsense
Posts: 2058
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

But you should still start with clean chain before apply Silca Synergistic for the first time anyway. Original factory glue should be removed before using any good lube/wax.

Meaning, buy a chain, clean it with mineral spirit, and denatured alcohol. Install chain on the bike and then use your drip wet lube like Silca Synergistic from then.
Some small pickle jar is sized quite right for shaking new chain in cleaning solvant.

MagicShite
Posts: 139
Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2016 3:33 pm

by MagicShite

The really interesting thing I found with Shimano chains are that the factory lube is REALLY clean after you use an alcohol wipe to get off whatever's stuck on the exterior on the chain.

The first 400-500km on factory lube was always so pleasing and then it's back to black goop again. (I use squirt wax for MTB but for road it's too much trouble and they don't last long enough IMO)

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C36
Posts: 1223
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:24 am

by C36

RideRunSwim wrote: That's cool man, we all busy. But some of us live in apartments with kids, no space or time for waxing, guess it's Silca synergistic for me.
Sharing my experience where I do accumulate all the “limitations quoted above” (high intensity work, apartment in Paris, and young kids)... you buy 4 chains, clean them all the FIRST TIME, wax them all together, rotate them (roughly each 350km in my case) all subsequent waxing do not require the same cleaning before rewaxing... and it is FASTER than cleaning / lubing the chain regularly (now if the chain is never maintained and just add new lubrication on top of the old one, sure you save some time at the expense of heavy wear and then replacement costs).
Waxing looks complicated and time consuming... is really not.


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CyclingGiraffe
Posts: 99
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2020 10:04 pm

by CyclingGiraffe

Hexsense wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 11:19 pm
But you should still start with clean chain before apply Silca Synergistic for the first time anyway. Original factory glue should be removed before using any good lube/wax.

Meaning, buy a chain, clean it with mineral spirit, and denatured alcohol. Install chain on the bike and then use your drip wet lube like Silca Synergistic from then.
Some small pickle jar is sized quite right for shaking new chain in cleaning solvant.
Honestly, I used to strip my new chains before lubing and installing, and while perhaps initially a little bit cleaner, they were also noisier. After a handful of rides, they're just as dirty as before, and they didn't seem to last any longer one way or the other. Now I just install as is and follow the synergetic instructions for leaving the factory lube on.

I appreciate the care that goes into the whole waxing thing, but it simply is not easier than dripping a drop of oil on each link then wiping it down every couple of weeks. At some point, good enough is good enough for me.

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Lewn777
Posts: 1076
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

CyclingGiraffe wrote:
Sun May 16, 2021 9:20 am
Hexsense wrote:
Sat May 15, 2021 11:19 pm
But you should still start with clean chain before apply Silca Synergistic for the first time anyway. Original factory glue should be removed before using any good lube/wax.

Meaning, buy a chain, clean it with mineral spirit, and denatured alcohol. Install chain on the bike and then use your drip wet lube like Silca Synergistic from then.
Some small pickle jar is sized quite right for shaking new chain in cleaning solvant.
Honestly, I used to strip my new chains before lubing and installing, and while perhaps initially a little bit cleaner, they were also noisier. After a handful of rides, they're just as dirty as before, and they didn't seem to last any longer one way or the other. Now I just install as is and follow the synergetic instructions for leaving the factory lube on.

I appreciate the care that goes into the whole waxing thing, but it simply is not easier than dripping a drop of oil on each link then wiping it down every couple of weeks. At some point, good enough is good enough for me.
The thing is though crock-pots are cheap and can be left safely for hours if safely located away from children and animals. If the weather is dry then a waxed chain not only is faster, but lasts x3 longer. You can mow the lawn, cook dinner etc and wax your chain at the same time. A buy one get three offer on DA chains? I can't afford not to do it.

JAMSXR
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2021 7:55 am

by JAMSXR

Useful thread this. I'm going to start waxing my chain!

by Weenie


Andstuff
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 10:33 pm

by Andstuff

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I just want to make sure I know what I need to start waxing:

1. Wax
2. Extra chain or two
3. Quick link for each chain (is there a preferred brand of reusable quick link?)
4. Denatured alcohol
5. Mineral spirits
6. Minimally, a jug, ideally an ultrasonic cleaner
7. Crockpot
8. Wax

Am I missing anything?

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