Where to get bicycle parts anodized?

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xixang
Posts: 32
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:25 pm

by xixang

Looking to have several aluminum parts that are currently anodized black stripped and anodized in silver/clear. Most places I am calling all do large batch commercial. I don't mind paying good money and shipping. Has anyone here had a good experience with a provider they can recommend? Thanks!

ghostinthemachine
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by ghostinthemachine

Where? Which country/region?

by Weenie


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joejack951
Posts: 1162
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE
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by joejack951

xixang wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 5:10 pm
Looking to have several aluminum parts that are currently anodized black stripped and anodized in silver/clear. Most places I am calling all do large batch commercial. I don't mind paying good money and shipping. Has anyone here had a good experience with a provider they can recommend? Thanks!
Can you describe in more detail that parts you have to be anodized? The fact that you also mention stripping off existing anodizing is a concern. For instance, if you are stripping a stem there are several critical features with tight tolerances plus threaded holes. Any chemical that can strip away anodizing is going to remove some extra aluminum as well. Your parts may not function as well as you'd like after all of that. further, chemical stripping doesn't leave the best looking surface finish. Ideally, you'd get the parts back after stripping so that you can polish/buff the show surfaces to the finish you desire. Finally, you'll need to know the exact aluminum alloy used in each part if you want any hope of the anodizing turning out consistently. 2000, 6000, and 7000 series alloys all are common for bike parts and all need to be anodized a bit differently.

I work with a small local shop that has been kind enough that when I have just a few parts to toss them in with their larger runs. I just can't be picky about timing. For $75-125, they'll also anodized whatever I bring them and have it done in a day or two usually. They've also accommodated my requests to strip parts, return them to me for finishing, then anodizing them.

It is also possible to anodize at home with a battery charger and some sulfuric acid. I've had mixed results mostly due to inexperience and trying to anodize very complex parts.

xixang
Posts: 32
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:25 pm

by xixang

joejack951 wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 6:21 pm
xixang wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 5:10 pm
Looking to have several aluminum parts that are currently anodized black stripped and anodized in silver/clear. Most places I am calling all do large batch commercial. I don't mind paying good money and shipping. Has anyone here had a good experience with a provider they can recommend? Thanks!
Can you describe in more detail that parts you have to be anodized? The fact that you also mention stripping off existing anodizing is a concern. For instance, if you are stripping a stem there are several critical features with tight tolerances plus threaded holes. Any chemical that can strip away anodizing is going to remove some extra aluminum as well. Your parts may not function as well as you'd like after all of that. further, chemical stripping doesn't leave the best looking surface finish. Ideally, you'd get the parts back after stripping so that you can polish/buff the show surfaces to the finish you desire. Finally, you'll need to know the exact aluminum alloy used in each part if you want any hope of the anodizing turning out consistently. 2000, 6000, and 7000 series alloys all are common for bike parts and all need to be anodized a bit differently.

I work with a small local shop that has been kind enough that when I have just a few parts to toss them in with their larger runs. I just can't be picky about timing. For $75-125, they'll also anodized whatever I bring them and have it done in a day or two usually. They've also accommodated my requests to strip parts, return them to me for finishing, then anodizing them.

It is also possible to anodize at home with a battery charger and some sulfuric acid. I've had mixed results mostly due to inexperience and trying to anodize very complex parts.
Looking for providers in the USA. Parts are thru axles, hub bodies, stem, headset spacers/cap, chainring, dropouts, and bottom bracket shell. I don't mind waiting nor spending money to have it done right. I wouldn't know how to tell which type of aluminum. I know a few of my pieces are 7000 series but not sure about the rest. I have considered small dimensional changes and felt that it would not be an issue I could not overcome but I fully recoginze the risk and still would like to try it. I also read on DIY and not interested in trying it myself. I'm not looking for a mirror or polished look. I've practiced on a spare chainring and removed black ano with lye, then put the part in a vibratory tumbler with walnut shells and it gave a satin/eggshell finish that I liked. That's what I'm after. I did also try a sandblaster to remove the ano on another chainring, the only issue there being that it made the surface VERY matte and seemed more agressive and likely to alter dimensions as you mentioned. The place you use, how do they strip?

UpFromOne
Posts: 1181
Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:23 am
Location: Olympic Nat'l Park, WA

by UpFromOne

FWIW, there are also other metal finishing means, like paint-on dyes, or chemical flame heat treating.

As above, stripping parts like thru-axles, stems, and frame parts (still on the frame?) will affect their durability because of losing the tolerances.

joejack951
Posts: 1162
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE
Contact:

by joejack951

xixang wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 10:11 pm
Looking for providers in the USA. Parts are thru axles, hub bodies, stem, headset spacers/cap, chainring, dropouts, and bottom bracket shell. I don't mind waiting nor spending money to have it done right. I wouldn't know how to tell which type of aluminum. I know a few of my pieces are 7000 series but not sure about the rest. I have considered small dimensional changes and felt that it would not be an issue I could not overcome but I fully recoginze the risk and still would like to try it. I also read on DIY and not interested in trying it myself. I'm not looking for a mirror or polished look. I've practiced on a spare chainring and removed black ano with lye, then put the part in a vibratory tumbler with walnut shells and it gave a satin/eggshell finish that I liked. That's what I'm after. I did also try a sandblaster to remove the ano on another chainring, the only issue there being that it made the surface VERY matte and seemed more agressive and likely to alter dimensions as you mentioned. The place you use, how do they strip?
Without some research and knowing who made the parts, I'm not sure it's possible to (non-destructively) determine which grade of aluminum a part is made from. You may just have to guess and hope for the best.

My biggest concern on your parts is the bearing press fits on the hub bodies. There's likely zero chance you preserve the proper press fit dimensions after stripping and anodizing. Perhaps with careful masking (using special tape designed for that purpose: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/heavy-indus ... anodizing/). You'll likely want to mask all of the threads, too, but tolerances there are looser than bearing press fits.

I'm not sure which chemical my anodizer used to strip the parts. It removed very little excess aluminum but left the parts very dull (though not rough like sand/bead blasting). It was not lye. Vibratory polishing or manual buffing is definitely needed to get a nice final finish. Anodizing over a dull, chemically-stripped surface won't do much to improve it even if it does smooth it slightly (as relayed to me by my anodizer).

xixang
Posts: 32
Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:25 pm

by xixang

joejack951 wrote:
Thu Nov 04, 2021 3:43 pm
xixang wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 10:11 pm
Looking for providers in the USA. Parts are thru axles, hub bodies, stem, headset spacers/cap, chainring, dropouts, and bottom bracket shell. I don't mind waiting nor spending money to have it done right. I wouldn't know how to tell which type of aluminum. I know a few of my pieces are 7000 series but not sure about the rest. I have considered small dimensional changes and felt that it would not be an issue I could not overcome but I fully recoginze the risk and still would like to try it. I also read on DIY and not interested in trying it myself. I'm not looking for a mirror or polished look. I've practiced on a spare chainring and removed black ano with lye, then put the part in a vibratory tumbler with walnut shells and it gave a satin/eggshell finish that I liked. That's what I'm after. I did also try a sandblaster to remove the ano on another chainring, the only issue there being that it made the surface VERY matte and seemed more agressive and likely to alter dimensions as you mentioned. The place you use, how do they strip?
Without some research and knowing who made the parts, I'm not sure it's possible to (non-destructively) determine which grade of aluminum a part is made from. You may just have to guess and hope for the best.

My biggest concern on your parts is the bearing press fits on the hub bodies. There's likely zero chance you preserve the proper press fit dimensions after stripping and anodizing. Perhaps with careful masking (using special tape designed for that purpose: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/heavy-indus ... anodizing/). You'll likely want to mask all of the threads, too, but tolerances there are looser than bearing press fits.

I'm not sure which chemical my anodizer used to strip the parts. It removed very little excess aluminum but left the parts very dull (though not rough like sand/bead blasting). It was not lye. Vibratory polishing or manual buffing is definitely needed to get a nice final finish. Anodizing over a dull, chemically-stripped surface won't do much to improve it even if it does smooth it slightly (as relayed to me by my anodizer).
Good thoughts. I did read that there a few different methods to anodize with different results in terms of thicknes with "hard anodizing" being the thickest at 20-70 microns If bearing holes were then too small I could always sand lightly to fit. My thought if I lost a little material would be to use a product like Loctite 638 retaining compound. Other than that, I could always paint or powdercoat instead. What was the place you used?

joejack951
Posts: 1162
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE
Contact:

by joejack951

xixang wrote:
Thu Nov 04, 2021 9:03 pm
Good thoughts. I did read that there a few different methods to anodize with different results in terms of thicknes with "hard anodizing" being the thickest at 20-70 microns If bearing holes were then too small I could always sand lightly to fit. My thought if I lost a little material would be to use a product like Loctite 638 retaining compound. Other than that, I could always paint or powdercoat instead. What was the place you used?
You can definitely vary the thickness of the anodizing but the thicker you go the less decorative it tends to become. Parts begin to get very dull looking, and can often turn a greenish/grey color which doesn't seem to be what you are after. I'd say stay thin with the anodizing and use some retaining compound on the bearings. Be sure to prime first to 'activate' the anodized surface first (Loctite 7471).

Here's the finishing company local to me that does most of my work: http://www.industraplate.com/

You can also try: http://www.hillockanodizing.com/ (bigger outfit but has more processes to offer)

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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