Di2 rear derailleur adjustment question
Moderators: robbosmans, Moderator Team
I have a bike with Shimano 9150 and I ran into a strange rear derailleur adjustment problem.
I set up the indexing properly, but in this case the rear der wants to over-shift the chain into the spokes and won't shift to the smallest sprocket.
If I move the indexing to the outmost position (in the direction of the smallest sprocket), shifting works fine and all gears assigned to the right sprocket, but half of the gears are noisy as hell... and I'm sure that it's not normal to move the index adjustment to any end of the range completely.
I adjusted the B screw and noise is not coming from the rubbing of the pulleys.
Obviously I think that the hanger is bent... but after eyeballing it... seems totally fine and definitely not out of alignment with one full gear.
Any suggestion I should try? Thanks!!
I set up the indexing properly, but in this case the rear der wants to over-shift the chain into the spokes and won't shift to the smallest sprocket.
If I move the indexing to the outmost position (in the direction of the smallest sprocket), shifting works fine and all gears assigned to the right sprocket, but half of the gears are noisy as hell... and I'm sure that it's not normal to move the index adjustment to any end of the range completely.
I adjusted the B screw and noise is not coming from the rubbing of the pulleys.
Obviously I think that the hanger is bent... but after eyeballing it... seems totally fine and definitely not out of alignment with one full gear.
Any suggestion I should try? Thanks!!
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Ditto on the hanger, then download/reference the RD-R9150 dealer manual and follow Shimano's setup and adjustment procedures starting on page 148.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
yes....hanger.
But what I do is take the chain off...move the pulley to the largest cog...line it up that way. Adjust the B screw so it touches...then screw it in for 5-6mm space.
But what I do is take the chain off...move the pulley to the largest cog...line it up that way. Adjust the B screw so it touches...then screw it in for 5-6mm space.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
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- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
If it's too far inboard in the big sprocket and too far inboard on the small sprocket, in what sense is it indexed properly?
Thank you all for the tips!
I replaced the hanger as a trial and error (I do not have a measuring tool) and the issue remained the same.
I replaced the rear wheel... and voila... Issue is gone.
What can be the issue with my wheel.. Again there is no rim brake rubbing and it seems to be straight... I checked the cassette and it's torqued properly. Should I replace the cassette?
I replaced the hanger as a trial and error (I do not have a measuring tool) and the issue remained the same.
I replaced the rear wheel... and voila... Issue is gone.
What can be the issue with my wheel.. Again there is no rim brake rubbing and it seems to be straight... I checked the cassette and it's torqued properly. Should I replace the cassette?
You are right. I should have written "indexed in a way that it works without noise".
The spacing of the hub on the problematic wheel is ever so slightly off/differnt from the hub on the other wheel.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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The posts you have made on this thread would suggest not.
Start from scratch, follow the instructions. Hanger alignment (anything 10 speed or over it's pretty much mimpossible to eyeball, even new hangers are usually misaligned), chain length, Stop screws, B screw, and so on. Check the cassette offset on both wheels. Either shim the one with the most inboard cassette, or note exactly the changes you need to make to get both to index.
+1 for this
I believe this is a thorough approach
I believe this is a thorough approach
ghostinthemachine wrote: ↑Tue Jun 01, 2021 4:54 pmThe posts you have made on this thread would suggest not.
Start from scratch, follow the instructions. Hanger alignment (anything 10 speed or over it's pretty much mimpossible to eyeball, even new hangers are usually misaligned), chain length, Stop screws, B screw, and so on. Check the cassette offset on both wheels. Either shim the one with the most inboard cassette, or note exactly the changes you need to make to get both to index.
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Have you a link for these cassette shims? have only seen them for rotors. i would need it for sram xplr 10-44 cassetteghostinthemachine wrote: ↑Tue Jun 01, 2021 4:54 pmThe posts you have made on this thread would suggest not.
Start from scratch, follow the instructions. Hanger alignment (anything 10 speed or over it's pretty much mimpossible to eyeball, even new hangers are usually misaligned), chain length, Stop screws, B screw, and so on. Check the cassette offset on both wheels. Either shim the one with the most inboard cassette, or note exactly the changes you need to make to get both to index.
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not sure where you'd get them for an XDR driver.mathias720 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 25, 2021 1:55 pmHave you a link for these cassette shims? have only seen them for rotors. i would need it for sram xplr 10-44 cassette
Last ones I had came in a set. About 40 or 50 shims from 0,25 to 1mm, possibly Wheels Manufacturing. That was probably 20 years ago.
Their generally the same ID as a centerlock shim (just under 35mm) which I've also used them for.
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Since its an XDR driver Id suggest the cassette isn't on all the way. It can require some torque but I'd remove it first to make sure its not cross threaded or the alignment steps aren't buggered up.
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