Potential Canyon buyers, beware!

[CrankyCarbon]

... the sound was actually getting worse and was becoming a loud creaking rather than clicking. The sound was clearly audible at >200W and >80RPM and it sounded like my bike could break any moment for >400W and >80RPM.

To me this sounds like the stereotypical Bottom Bracket / crank interface although I have not wrenched in ages other than my own bikes now.

I use Campy and have UT and threaded english BB for 2 bikes. On one bike I have no issues (I measures everything before installation, etc). On the 2nd It has the exact same >200w / 80rpm clicking noise which gets worse at higher torque times. If I double pedal I can minimize it. Light smooth pedaling .. nothing. heavier pedaling .. clicking.
With Campy UT it's a fixed width so one can calculate stuff out, although a major PITA.

But someone mentioned hambini. he has identified that the two sides of a BB interface may not be perfectly directly across from each other, thus causing the crank/axle to be slightly skewed in relation to the bearing/cups, thus causing what seems the correct installation to not really work no matter what you do.

[hambini]

With regards to misalignment.

This was the worst I had seen up to that point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtsos05Bf3U

I have seen a cervelo with worse since. And canyon also have bottom bracket halves glued together so they may well be misaligned.

[Karvalo]

At this point my best bet is that the BB shell is damaged from the crash I mentioned in the OP.

Right.

So you think that you broke your bike through your own misadventure, and therefore you want to sue Canyon over it.

What the *f##k* is wrong with you?

[CrankyCarbon]

I forgot to add. Shimano hollow cranks start creaking before failure too under load, although you stated you installed new cranks.

[Denavelo]

I've always wondered why people feel like lenghty lawsuits with big companies is a viable solution to your problems..
Is it a quick Money grab or something? A stick it to the man type of move? I mean, just buy a new frame and move on with your life..
I feel like you crashed a bike on your own and are expecting Canyon to lay out rose flowers on the ground for you...

If they offered a crash replacement at a lower cost, that was your chance to resovle all of this madness.. GEEZ!
Why even stress your brain out and get an attorney invovled for something you created yourself?

[bm0p700f]

We dont know its the bb. It could be a cracked bb shell.

The frame needs to inspected with endoscope looking for cracks. If it crack its a new frame.

[Alexandrumarian]

>200w / 80rpm clicking noise which gets worse at higher torque times. If I double pedal I can minimize it. Light smooth pedaling .. nothing. heavier pedaling .. clicking.
With Campy UT it's a fixed width so one can calculate stuff out, although a major PITA.

Did you fix this? It could very well the chainring bolts. It has happened twice to me with Campy. Until I figured it out I went nuts replacing saddles, pedals, seatposts, QR etc.

Take the crank apart completely, clean the bolts and chainrings and inner threads, add a bit of grease the the bolts and torque to 7 (8 is recommended for dry but I think a bit of grease is a good idea). Doesn't hurt to also clean and wipe the cups in and out, washer, Cclip and its groove either.

[CrankyCarbon]

>200w / 80rpm clicking noise which gets worse at higher torque times. If I double pedal I can minimize it. Light smooth pedaling .. nothing. heavier pedaling .. clicking.
With Campy UT it's a fixed width so one can calculate stuff out, although a major PITA.

Did you fix this? It could very well the chainring bolts. It has happened twice to me with Campy. Until I figured it out I went nuts replacing saddles, pedals, seatposts, QR etc.

Take the crank apart completely, clean the bolts and chainrings and inner threads, add a bit of grease the the bolts and torque to 7 (8 is recommended for dry but I think a bit of grease is a good idea). Doesn't hurt to also clean and wipe the cups in and out, washer, Cclip and its groove either.

it is a non-drive side bearing failure.

some detail: taking the crank off the bearing does not spin freely, and it feels like it had a notch in it.
I took off the rubberized bearing spacer seal and the "notch" feeling disappeared under just finger pressure.
but an individual bearing/race is/has failed in it. It clinks on the road and does not spin as freely as the DS bearing with the rubberized spacer still in. The silver specs in the grease too is a red flag.

I'll be replacing the bearing on the off season but for now it will have to do. I have 3 bikes anyways. My other UT crankset has had no issues. Both bikes use outboard BSA cups and I've measured and spaced them out to specifications.

This has been a problem since day one on the brand 2018 Record crankset. Only upon crankset installation (replaced an older 102mm square BB/carbon record crank) did the clicking start. No other clicking from all the other record/sr stuff on the bike which was on for several months before the crankset. Being an aluminum frame I also refaced the shell and measured/spaced everything out accordingly.