I just bought a road bike with 12mm thru axles. I'm of the opinion that this problem is underserved by the market. The challenge is that all the thru axle adapters for roof racks just rely on the stock axle to hold the bike, there aren't many locking options. I wouldn't mind switching racks, but I want a nice solution. Anyone know of any good products out there?
Adaptation attempts:
I have a nice Whispbar locking rack with a slick 9mm skewer. I looked at sleeving my 9mm skewer with some stainless tubing on the 12mm non-threaded side and electrical tape/silicone on the threaded side (10.2mm). It was too wide lock, not practical, and there were fork paint concerns - an OK emergency solution though. I also couldn't bore our the rack, nor reduce the 15mm TA capability of the unit.
Acceptance:
I bought a fork lift adapter, but that looks stupid and isn't secure. I'm looking for "keeping honest people honest" level of security. I'm thinking about fabricating a flat piece of stock with a 9mm hole on one end and a pin on the other to the skewer lever in place (pin going into the DT Swiss RWS lever hole) while the rack is locked. That or maybe a bit of wire with two loops on the end doing a similar job. A D-ring ended silicone / nylon strap to the frame might work too, but I'm concerned about it vibrating.
It'd be nice:
I'd like to see a solution with where a rack has it's own axle - one side normal, the threaded side covered with a replaceable polyurethane. The rack would use the center section to spread the fork, it would just clamp the non-treaded side down. The threaded side would be controlled by the width of the center section and the diameter of the pin through the hole - maybe a hook on the outside too. The holes on the fork are 12mm wide, so even with the soft side, that's plenty of coverage, even with tolerances, to keep the bike from moving around.
Roof Racks and Road Disc - Anyone know of any good products out there?
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Maybe this Rocky Mount would work for you https://rockymounts.com/collections/roo ... itchhitter
Though the lock consists of a pull out cable that goes around the frame so not much different than just adding a cable lock to your existing rack. You would need to use a cable lock for a hitch mount rack too, so not much more inconvenience
There is really no way to lock a through axle unless someone came up with a removeable lever with a proprietary connection sort of like lug nut locks on cars.
Though the lock consists of a pull out cable that goes around the frame so not much different than just adding a cable lock to your existing rack. You would need to use a cable lock for a hitch mount rack too, so not much more inconvenience
There is really no way to lock a through axle unless someone came up with a removeable lever with a proprietary connection sort of like lug nut locks on cars.
I've been looking at the front wheel clamping solutions, eg Yakima highroad and Thule 599
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/09/thule-u ... on-review/
I don't like the idea of the axle clamping solutions (eg Thule 565), although I dont mind them for QR
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/09/thule-u ... on-review/
I don't like the idea of the axle clamping solutions (eg Thule 565), although I dont mind them for QR
Chasse patate
With the bridge laid down, it’s a lot of work to get the skewer off. With a zip tie, it’s be as secure as most racks against casual efforts. The actual rack is less secure than any additional security. https://i.imgur.com/VEripQ2.jpg
I don’t understand your concern about axle clamps. Sure a lot of lateral force isn’t normal for a fork, but how much lateral rotational Force is an unladen bike going to see? As long as the bolt is pretty tight in the hole, it won’t see much. Worst case 2g? Add the leverage of a full Fred saddle bag and your still nowhere near a weighted rider hitting a mid corner bump
I don’t understand your concern about axle clamps. Sure a lot of lateral force isn’t normal for a fork, but how much lateral rotational Force is an unladen bike going to see? As long as the bolt is pretty tight in the hole, it won’t see much. Worst case 2g? Add the leverage of a full Fred saddle bag and your still nowhere near a weighted rider hitting a mid corner bump
I'm commenting specifically about the Thule 565 here: 3 reasons (ignoring security)
1) no padding/metal clamping metal
2) shape is pretty average too
3) Clamp adjustment via the cam levers. Meaning if you clamp a 15mm TA then change to a 12mm you gotta dial the clamp back in. If it had the torque adjuster thing like that Yakima highroad that would be a completely different story.
I would personally prefer not to clamp my TA on a metal interface...
1) no padding/metal clamping metal
2) shape is pretty average too
3) Clamp adjustment via the cam levers. Meaning if you clamp a 15mm TA then change to a 12mm you gotta dial the clamp back in. If it had the torque adjuster thing like that Yakima highroad that would be a completely different story.
I would personally prefer not to clamp my TA on a metal interface...
Chasse patate
Yeah, having the padding close to the center would cause too much movement. They probably could have put a thin layer of a high durameter poly on one side and gotten a reasonable amount of sway. They could has also make a metal spacer tube with feet - you put the fork/TA in the tube on the ground, the feet on the tube protect your fork legs while on the ground/top of car in the air, and the tube is the wear item for the clamp. I guess one could just make this tube an use their existing product.
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