Lets brake the bike into components, where do we draw the line (€)

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by wheelsONfire

If we split a bike in to components.

Frameset (factory fixed color and geometry)
Frameset (custom color, custom geometry please level steel, ti, alu and carbon)
/ Combo of above
/custom built wheelset
Calipers (might be aftermarket)

* Power meter
* Bike PC

Where do you guys draw the line?
Let's say as an example, a premium saddle is 300-400 Euro, what about a saddle at 600 Euro?
A frameset at 4000 Euro, what about a frameset at 7000 Euro?

Where do we start to feel it's to excessive? What is it that we ask for this very costly components for them to possibly justify the asking price?

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)

Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

by Weenie

Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓


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by eucalyptus

Personally, I try to keep costs down on my 3 bikes wherever possible to keep each bike below or around €9-10 000 EUR because thats the price I think is the sweet spot between very very light, nicer materials but nothing crazy like a €17K bike.

Also, very different buying at MSRP or with discount. You get a srsly nice bike for €9-10K with buying parts on discount rather than paying €14K MSRP from LBS.

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by nickf

Big brand wheels is where I draw the line. Just paying for that warranty. $1k for a set of nice Farsports, BTLOS, or light bicycle wheels is all one needs. $2-3k+ for wheels, there is a sucker born every day.

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by kode54

Several years ago, I bought a set of Chinese wheels. They didn’t last long as one of them cracked on a large pothole. Fast forward, I bought a LB AR25 and was surprised how well and how far Chinese wheels have come. Great quality for the price.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc

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by usr

Basically my algorithm is how would I feel if through some bad luck the part got trashed on the first ride. But that means that I can't supply any numbers because that still very much depends on the appeal of the part in question. It's a wide spectrum, sometimes I'm irrationally attracted to a specific part, other times it feels almost like picking the least bad option because nothing in the market really triggers something in me. That still does not mean that I would want e.g. some cheap aluminum seatpost in the expensive frame (Darimo do stand out and trigger a some "I want", but I guess my unborn threshold isn't quite that far out)

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by TobinHatesYou

I'd say I can build the exact bike I want for €7000 with discounts available to me. I don't feel like breaking down the component choices, just assume the usual ratios.

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by poulhansen

25% of new BUT it depends on what is available.

I bought a lot at that price when building my 2 WW bikes but chains and tyres were bought at new price, a SRAM Red brakelever at 50%, a crashed repairable lever at 10% and an Extralite Octaramp ring at full price.

But I just got a tub that was only used as a spare, never run, at 60% of new.

The first build, 5.5 kg, I had a criteria of maximum 2$ pr saved gram :-) and I mostly stuck to it.

But on the second, 4.4 kg, I had to revise that.

On bike builds: When you go down from 6-5 kg, the parts will cost 2x more than 7-6 kg, 5-4 kg parts will cost 2x2 more than 6-5 kg etc. just like air resistance :-)

Why are you asking?
Cannondale Super Six HiMod 2017 6.7 kg
Cannondale six13, 2004, 5.50kg
Focus Izalco Max, 2023 4.418 kg

by Weenie

Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓


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by fatpinarellorider

Ah! Just my kind of topic.
I definitely set arbitrary monetary spending limits on all parts.
There are just some things I am not prepared to pay too much for.

Very approximate USD pricing.

Frameset — last time I bought a new frame was a long time ago. I don't think I'd want to pay more than two thousands dollars today (if I had the money). I'm not likely to buy another frame any time soon unless one of the ones I already own breaks.
Handlebar — $200 or so. Hard to say exactly because I am used to Australian dollars.
Stem — depends. Probably my limit these days is well under $200.
Wheelset — about $1500. I just see any point in paying any more than that.
Seatpost — up to $200 to $250, hopefully less (like half of that).
Saddle — <$250. Having said that I bought one of those 3D printed fizik saddles.
Pedals — $250. I tend to buy cheaper model pedals and upgrade the axles later on.
Crankset — $300. I'm not a fan of new 4-arm road cranksets. So I save some money there.
Groupset — I can't remember the last time I bought an entire groupset. I tend to buy parts one at a time.🤔
Calipers — one to two hundred bucks at most.
Rotors — $100. I tend to buy hope floating rotors.
Cassettes — about $250. I draw the line at $600 cassettes. That equates to $1000 in Australian money!! Things are just getting ridiculous there. :shock:
Chains — I don't like paying too much for chains.🤔But I do like the ones with all the hollow pins and plates!😃 Like 50 bucks American? Having said that I caved and got a YBN SLA211 Titanium recently. :oops: It wasn't much more than a top end sram chain though (if not less).

* Power meter — I don't use one. There's no point in my knowing what my power output is at any given moment.

front suspension fork — AUD$750
rear shock — AUD$500 or so

In the past I used to spend more on bike parts.
I'm kind of over that phase though now.
Darimo, ax-lightness, lightweight, even zipp, all completely out of my budget.
I must be turning into an old curmudgeon or something.

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