Girona, Spain. Somehow all those youtubers didn't do it justice.

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fa63
Posts: 2570
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:26 am
Location: Atlanta, GA, US

by fa63

I was there for 10 days and didn't feel any hostility. Maybe because it wasn't peak season for cyclists. I can't imagine wanting to go there during the summer anyways; I thought the weather in mid-November was perfect (lows around 7-8 deg C but quickly warmed up to around 15-20).

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Mr.Gib
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Location: eh?

by Mr.Gib

Requiem84 wrote:
Sun Dec 08, 2024 10:34 am
I've been to Girona 5 times now, my impression is that the love for cyclists is decreasing. Last time the police were handing out instant fines of something like 150€ for cycling the wrong way in old town. I also saw some banners with 'Tourists go home' and quite recently Eat Sleep Cycle has been vandalized with grafiti on all windows etc.
This is really a shame. Probably the result of too many loud obnoxious people on bikes who showed a lack of courtesy to local pedestrians. A few complaints and before you know it cops handing out tickets, which is pretty wild when you think about it happening in Girona.

@Zakay, so many great tips thanks. I have ridden a fair bit of the Girona area routes you have described. Mrs Gib and I were doing loops up to 200km+, over 8 days and tried not to do any repeats. Loop though Oix/Rocabruna and Comprodon was a favourite. The one thing that would have helped is better intel on the quietest routes out of town - sounds like you have that dialed. Took us a few days to learn the best ways out.

I am very intrigued by your reporting on Malaga and area. We have a supported trip in Andalusia planned for 2026 and will spend two or three additional weeks riding the area unsupported. Malaga sounds like a very good spot to "hang out". The Algarve is also on the list, maybe some weeks there as well.
Requiem84 wrote:
Sun Dec 08, 2024 4:12 pm
But is there anything similar as Girona?
What the Basque area for example?
Basque country is absolutely worth a visit. The land is very wild and rugged, only two options - either up or down :D . Being super fit helps to get the most out of it. The entire area between Bilbao and San Sebastian is great riding. The reputation is for challenging weather, particularely closer to the coast. We were there mid-summer and didn't see a cloud for two weeks. Food culture rivals the best of Italy. The road network is not as extensive as the best parts of Italy, France, or Catalunya, but that is to be expected given the topography. The west end of the Pyrenees on both Spanish and French sides is also pretty Basque and has great riding. Many longer climbs of course, but milder gradients. The best base town may be up for debate. We were base in San Sebastian. Total non-stop party. Stay close to, but definitely not right in the core of the old town.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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zaykay
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Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:14 am

by zaykay

Mr.Gib wrote:
Mon Dec 09, 2024 11:44 pm
I am very intrigued by your reporting on Malaga and area. We have a supported trip in Andalusia planned for 2026 and will spend two or three additional weeks riding the area unsupported. Malaga sounds like a very good spot to "hang out". The Algarve is also on the list, maybe some weeks there as well.
Nice, if you are going spring/fall I would book one week to ride around Granada. I've not been there but riding should be excellent there. Eat Sleep Cycle blog has an excellent route guide with gps tracks to cover main loops starting from Malaga. I would start self guided route planning from there. I'm pretty sure your guided package includes Ronda, El Chorro and Antequera which are further away from the city. Road surfaces vary a lot in Andalucia, don't expect Girona smooth everywhere. 30mm tires are justified. There are several places were in small country roads >10% gradient sections are build from concrete and can be really rough.

Torbjorn
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:44 pm

by Torbjorn

zaykay wrote:
Sun Dec 08, 2024 11:32 am
Mr.Gib wrote:
Sat Dec 07, 2024 11:54 pm
@zaykay, what time of year are you talking about? Curious about your recommendations for winter (Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb). We all know about south-east Spain, but any other spots you like?
I've read a lot about riding in Sicily, never been, but according to my knowledge it has worse road conditions, infrastructure and services do not exist similarly, hard to manage in english and Italian drivers are the worst from the three main cycling countries in Europe (Spain, France & Italy). Also hard to get there. The weather should be great during the winter months though.
I've been twice to Sicily, cycling. It is.. good. It could have been great; as the nature and winding roads, as well as the culture and food are really good, but - as you say - the road quality isn't always fantastic, and there is generally a fair amount of debris and broken glass along the roads, particularly when you pass the villages.

I haven't seen anyone mention them yet, so I will share with you two hidden cycling location gems.

The region inland from Santa Maria di Navarrese, Sardinia:

Sardinia.jpg
Example road: https://www.google.com/maps/@40.0308064 ... FQAw%3D%3D

This place blew my girlfriend and me away. It offers absolutely quiet roads, of generally high quality and in untouched, authentic nature. There are good, proper climbs, plateau-like scenary full of animals (cute little free-range pigs, horses, cows and more) freely grazing around up in the mountains, cute villages and very nice local people. Could not recommend it enough. But go outside of the holiday season (e.g, go in spring or fall), as I imagine it's both too hot and many tourists there during the summer.

The next, the parc naturel régional des Préalpes d'Azur:

Prealpes d'Azur.JPG
Example road: https://www.google.com/maps/@43.8612839 ... FQAw%3D%3D

When you hear people talk about Nice and cycling, what they generally refer to are the places of Èze, Monaco, Menton, and the classic cols just north in the Parc Mercantour: Col de la Madone, Col de Braus, Col de Turini, etc, etc. And they have every reason to talk about these places, especially the riding over and around the mentioned mountain passes is stunning. Quiet and calm - and so so beautiful. However, just west from all this is an area - an absolute cycling paradise - that no ever talks about, namely the Préalpes d'Azur. It's a set of smaller mountain ranges, plateaus and valleys just behind the coast. This area offers endless sensational riding. On absolutely quiet roads, with almost no cars whatsoever throughout the course of a long day. Even right in the middle of the high season. All the tourists go to the 15 km strip of land from the coastline; from the first mountain range and beyond it is serene. There are too many stunningly beautiful placese to mention, but we're talking excellent tarmac, climbs, and gorges from one perched mountain village to another. It's a cylist's dream. If you're considering going to this area, I advise to drop Nice but rather stay in one of the villages up the hillside, e.g. Vence, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, or something of the sort. Then you're closer to these good roads. If you get a rental car, you can more easily hit the roads and passes further east, as well.

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Mr.Gib
Posts: 5898
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Location: eh?

by Mr.Gib

Torbjorn wrote:
Wed Jan 15, 2025 1:47 am

I haven't seen anyone mention them yet, so I will share with you two hidden cycling location gems.

...the parc naturel régional des Préalpes d'Azur:

When you hear people talk about Nice and cycling, what they generally refer to are the places of Èze, Monaco, Menton, and the classic cols just north in the Parc Mercantour: Col de la Madone, Col de Braus, Col de Turini, etc, etc. And they have every reason to talk about these places, especially the riding over and around the mentioned mountain passes is stunning. Quiet and calm - and so so beautiful. However, just west from all this is an area - an absolute cycling paradise - that no ever talks about, namely the Préalpes d'Azur. It's a set of smaller mountain ranges, plateaus and valleys just behind the coast. This area offers endless sensational riding. On absolutely quiet roads, with almost no cars whatsoever throughout the course of a long day. Even right in the middle of the high season. All the tourists go to the 15 km strip of land from the coastline; from the first mountain range and beyond it is serene. There are too many stunningly beautiful placese to mention, but we're talking excellent tarmac, climbs, and gorges from one perched mountain village to another. It's a cylist's dream. If you're considering going to this area, I advise to drop Nice but rather stay in one of the villages up the hillside, e.g. Vence, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, or something of the sort. Then you're closer to these good roads. If you get a rental car, you can more easily hit the roads and passes further east, as well.
I second this recommendation. In August 2018 I spent a week riding out of Vence before a 12 day loop that took us through the Gorges du Verdon (a must see spectacular crack in the earth), as far north as Briancon and then back down to Vence through the southern Alps. Out of Vence itself there are many great loops, with an abundance of impressive cliff side roads, canyon views, etc. Easily overlooked and under-rated as noted above.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

zaykay
Posts: 57
Joined: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:14 am

by zaykay

Torbjorn wrote:
Wed Jan 15, 2025 1:47 am
The next, the parc naturel régional des Préalpes d'Azur:

Prealpes d'Azur.JPG

Example road: https://www.google.com/maps/@43.8612839 ... FQAw%3D%3D
Yes, the area north west of Nice you circulated is also one of my favourite places to ride anywhere. There's hardly any traffic and scenery is exceptional. The road after the Aiglun village feels so remote and surreal 😎. I also like the area close to Castellane which is even further west. These are the roads I've spend most travelling abroad☺️ As a base I would recommend also Grasse. It's big enough of having a lot of services, restaurants and places to stay and it also has train connection. No sea view though like some parts of Vence which is also a central base.

Torbjorn
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:44 pm

by Torbjorn

Yes, I don't understand why this area is so unknown to cyclists. Frankly, it offers some of the best riding I have ever experienced. I guess I shouldn't talk about it, so it stays peaceful and beautiful as it is!

I agree with you both that the line I drew on the map is somewhat arbitrary, particularly in the areas even further west as you have indicated, where the experience is very similar. Mr Gib, the Gorges de Verdon double loop is something special!

Woland
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2017 8:28 pm
Location: HEL

by Woland

What's the typical weather like in Préalpes d'Azur in early March?

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ryanw
in the industry
Posts: 2358
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:52 pm
Location: London

by ryanw

Checkout Ride Soutern Spain (Road).
https://www.rssroad.com/

One of my best friends runs it, very successful in the MTB scene https://www.ridesouthernspain.com, but the road riding out there is also insane.

I did the Alpujarra Magna back in 2018 and it was one of the best (and hardest) days ever on a bike. 170km / 4200m:
https://www.strava.com/activities/1873140823

The Sierra Nevada National Park is quite amazing.
SL8 R-Works - 6.19kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop

Torbjorn
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:44 pm

by Torbjorn

Woland wrote:
Fri Jan 17, 2025 10:22 am
What's the typical weather like in Préalpes d'Azur in early March?
I have never been there in March, but I would imagine kind of like the whole Mediterrean coastal belt from Italy to northern Spain at that time: generally good riding, but necessitates clothing for every type of weather; chilly/freezing at night, cool in the morning, during the day nice and comfortable if sunny, cool/cold if rainy or overcast.

Here's a few sites with weather trends for March: https://planificateur.a-contresens.net/ ... 20119.html / https://wanderlog.com/weather/17968/3/e ... r-in-march / https://weather-and-climate.com/entreva ... h-averages

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