The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Is there such thing as a reverse spoke calculator? I have hubs on an existing wheelset that I would like to re-use but, for whatever reason, the manufacturer won't provide hub measurements. They have provided the spoke lengths and rim ERD though and suggested that I can calculate backwards. To complicate matters, these are straightpull hubs.
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Probably not. You'll need to find out your hub's OLN (over-lock-nut) dimension, its Flange PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) and its Center-to-flange offset. No calculator can give you the correct value for all of these as there are an infinite number of combinations of the three that are mathematically correct.jch3n wrote: ↑Sat Apr 27, 2024 12:37 amIs there such thing as a reverse spoke calculator? I have hubs on an existing wheelset that I would like to re-use but, for whatever reason, the manufacturer won't provide hub measurements. They have provided the spoke lengths and rim ERD though and suggested that I can calculate backwards. To complicate matters, these are straightpull hubs.
Have a careful read of this explanation https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/howtomeasure.php and ready your digital until-the-battery-runs-out calipers for action.
PS. If you don't have any calipers, they're comically cheap on, for example, AliExpress, and you'll then be able to spend many happy hours measuring all sorts of things that you didn't know you needed to measure. Don't get plastic ones, nor calipers that auto-flatten their battery when their case is closed because the case depresses the raised On button...
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My first ever wheel build (still waiting for the rear hub)
Light bicycle AR465 rim, lightweight option, dt swiss 240 exp hubs and sapim cx ray spokes, along with aluminum nipples. Spoke tension with unior tension meter is around 40-41 on disk side, 35 on non disc side, roughly translating to 125 kgs I think. Anyone using that particular tension meter-spoke combination?
This tension is without an inflated tire, to my understanding the tension will be lower with an inflated tire.
Also, despite the lightweight components, the wheel feels pretty heavy weirdly enough. It should be around 626 grams +156 grams for the disc +10 grams for the lockring. I think I should swap the disc
Light bicycle AR465 rim, lightweight option, dt swiss 240 exp hubs and sapim cx ray spokes, along with aluminum nipples. Spoke tension with unior tension meter is around 40-41 on disk side, 35 on non disc side, roughly translating to 125 kgs I think. Anyone using that particular tension meter-spoke combination?
This tension is without an inflated tire, to my understanding the tension will be lower with an inflated tire.
Also, despite the lightweight components, the wheel feels pretty heavy weirdly enough. It should be around 626 grams +156 grams for the disc +10 grams for the lockring. I think I should swap the disc
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Not a lot of activity here now. Your wheel looks great though! Galfer Wave rotors seem to be the lightweight favourite.
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Ah thats a bummer. Thanks for the compliment. I had found some discs from ti-parts but they seem to not be available anymore. Maybe I will get the galfers
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Yeah. Custom wheels not really popular any longer. It's really nice that places like LB, Farsports, etc still sell rims only for builders and diy'ers like yourself. "Wheel systems" and carbon spokes are kind of thriving right now.
Never cheer before you know who is winning
I built a special jig that stretches spokes with one end of the spoke attached to a crane scale. This allows me to build a table of spoke tensions for my specific tension meter. This is the most accurate method as each spoke meter with the same make/model could have individual variances.HannibalLecter wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 11:10 amAnyone using that particular tension meter-spoke combination?
My spoke of choice is the Pillar Wing 20. The elbow is a bit thicker at 2.2mm, ensuring a good fit on the flange hole. This is the spoke that Campy uses on their top line wheels.
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Yes I know about that technique, if I were to make more than one wheelset I would do it. As for pillar, no chance of finding the spokes anywhere.I tried to find the titanium ones, no luckpdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 4:47 amI built a special jig that stretches spokes with one end of the spoke attached to a crane scale. This allows me to build a table of spoke tensions for my specific tension meter. This is the most accurate method as each spoke meter with the same make/model could have individual variances.HannibalLecter wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 11:10 amAnyone using that particular tension meter-spoke combination?
My spoke of choice is the Pillar Wing 20. The elbow is a bit thicker at 2.2mm, ensuring a good fit on the flange hole. This is the spoke that Campy uses on their top line wheels.
I don't know where you're located. Aliexpress does ship worldwide.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22518326 ... 4itemAdapt
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22518326 ... 4itemAdapt
Alright, here's my show & tell:
A few months ago I posted here asking about 21 spoke wheels. I decided to bite the bullet and do the build. I specced these wheels out to be a "vanity build" that maximizes aero and weight-weenie-ing, at the expense of practical considerations like stiffness and robustness.
A few months ago I posted here asking about 21 spoke wheels. I decided to bite the bullet and do the build. I specced these wheels out to be a "vanity build" that maximizes aero and weight-weenie-ing, at the expense of practical considerations like stiffness and robustness.
- Rims: Derobust 50/55mm deep, 21mm internal width rims, flyweight-spec & paintless finish. 410 and 415g respectively
Hubs: Goldix 21-spoke ratchet hubs (no model name). 286g
Spokes & nipples: Pillar Wing 20, Pillar Hex 10 internal nipples (forgot to weigh, whoopsie)
- weight: 1325g
depth: 50/55mm (front/rear)
width: 21/28 (internal/external)
cost: $718
Hello. Question about Shimano Dura Ace 9000 C24 TU wheelset
A big hole on the road fews days ago => I need to change the rear and front rim...
Shimano C24 tu rim are difficult to find alone and are very expensive; so the question I have: I would like to keep my C24 9000 hubs & spokes and instal other rim tnah Shimano brand
My front rim is 16 holes with radial 283mm spoke
My rear rim is 21 holes - 14 cross *2 spokes on drive side 304mm - 7 radial spokes on non drive side with 283mm
I do not know the ERD of my Shimano rim and I can mesure it because rim are broken - And no information on exact dimensions about my Dura Ace C24 hubs...
So: how can I be sure to fid the good rim that will match with my hubs and spoke.....???
Thanks to help me
A big hole on the road fews days ago => I need to change the rear and front rim...
Shimano C24 tu rim are difficult to find alone and are very expensive; so the question I have: I would like to keep my C24 9000 hubs & spokes and instal other rim tnah Shimano brand
My front rim is 16 holes with radial 283mm spoke
My rear rim is 21 holes - 14 cross *2 spokes on drive side 304mm - 7 radial spokes on non drive side with 283mm
I do not know the ERD of my Shimano rim and I can mesure it because rim are broken - And no information on exact dimensions about my Dura Ace C24 hubs...
So: how can I be sure to fid the good rim that will match with my hubs and spoke.....???
Thanks to help me
I need some help with retensioning a wheel. I got a farsport Kaze 58 wheelset and I started to service it. Front wheel is alright but the rear wheel is tensioned on the ds to 120kgf pretty evenly. But the nds is only tensioned to around 50kgf. Is the nds tensioned to low (especially since it’s a disc wheelset) and how can I retension the nds without throwing the dish out of place?
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Spoke tension imbalance just a matter-of-fact on the rear wheel, since the bracing angle is going to be different for both sides. If the wheel is dished, true, and your DS spokes are at the proper tension, then you have the correct NDS tension. Rims will be specced to a peak tension that is specific to the side of the wheel with lower bracing angle, i.e. "120~130kgf for rear drive side". AFAIK the non-drive side spokes can be any tension as long as it is lower than the max spec tension.Seribert wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 11:52 amI need some help with retensioning a wheel. I got a farsport Kaze 58 wheelset and I started to service it. Front wheel is alright but the rear wheel is tensioned on the ds to 120kgf pretty evenly. But the nds is only tensioned to around 50kgf. Is the nds tensioned to low (especially since it’s a disc wheelset) and how can I retension the nds without throwing the dish out of place?
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