Thanks for the insight!
The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Hi, are the stated ERDs on Light Bicycle rims pretty accurate? I just got some AR56 rims and I don't have any extra spokes short enough to measure using the technique i've read elsewhere.
Light Bicycle quoted me suggested spoke lengths to use for my Shimano hubs. Not sure about the "261mm" one-off measurement below.
AR56 ERD from lightbicycle.com: 527mm (not including nipple head dimension)
Suggested 3-cross spoke lengths from Light Bicycle sales rep:
front wheel drive side: 261mm
front non drive side: 260mm
rear wheel drive side: 260mm
front non drive side: 262mm
Front hub: Shimano HB-RS770, 28 holes
Left Flange Diameter: 44mm
Right Flange Diameter: 44mm
Left Center-to-Flange: 22mm
Right Center-to-Flange: 34mm
Rear hub: Shimano FH-RS770, 28 holes
Left Flange Diameter: 44mm
Right Flange Diameter: 45mm
Left Center-to-Flange: 33.8mm
Right Center-to-Flange: 18.9mm
Light Bicycle quoted me suggested spoke lengths to use for my Shimano hubs. Not sure about the "261mm" one-off measurement below.
AR56 ERD from lightbicycle.com: 527mm (not including nipple head dimension)
Suggested 3-cross spoke lengths from Light Bicycle sales rep:
front wheel drive side: 261mm
front non drive side: 260mm
rear wheel drive side: 260mm
front non drive side: 262mm
Front hub: Shimano HB-RS770, 28 holes
Left Flange Diameter: 44mm
Right Flange Diameter: 44mm
Left Center-to-Flange: 22mm
Right Center-to-Flange: 34mm
Rear hub: Shimano FH-RS770, 28 holes
Left Flange Diameter: 44mm
Right Flange Diameter: 45mm
Left Center-to-Flange: 33.8mm
Right Center-to-Flange: 18.9mm
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- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2022 6:48 pm
- Location: Central EU
Just put some tape on each of the spokes at a defined distance from the top (250mm or so) and measure between the tape...
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- Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2019 5:54 pm
Newbie question, any reason why I can't reuse spokes if I'm rebuilding an wheel/hubset with a new rim? Have a White Industries CLD hubset laced with CX-Rays to some pretty beat and old open mold carbon rims that I'm thinking of having rebuilt with some new Lightbicycle rims.
The ERD of the new rim would need to be identical, for starters. Even if that were the case, I wouldn't re-use them.speedylumberjack wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 6:14 pmNewbie question, any reason why I can't reuse spokes if I'm rebuilding an wheel/hubset with a new rim? Have a White Industries CLD hubset laced with CX-Rays to some pretty beat and old open mold carbon rims that I'm thinking of having rebuilt with some new Lightbicycle rims.
Newbie question here. I have a 40 mm deep rear wheel on my Parlee Z5 (tight wheel clearance at the rear). I get constant chainstay rub when pushing big power. 81kg rider. The rear wheel has a novatec straight pull 24h with cx ray spokes. I am looking to make this rear wheel as stiff as possible as I like to get out of the saddle and push hard. What spokes would you recommend, or would a spoke and new hub combo be a better option?
Does anyone here have experience with “campy WTO style” 2:1/21-spoke layouts? I found some Goldix “R240” 2:1 hubs that are super light; build would be as follows:
Goldix R240 21 spoke hubs: 264g/$120
Pilar Wing spokes+nipples: 180.6g + 16.8g / $55.17 for 60
50mm Deerobust hooked tubeless rims: 800g / $428.64
So total weight would be approx 1261.4g and cost would be $602.81.
This seems almost too good to be true. I know there is going to be some error in weights. I know my spoke weights will change depending on length. But I also know campy’s WTO 60mm wheels are under 1400g and are a very similar spec in all regards—so this quoted weight is not completely unfathomable.
But still, what are some pitfalls I should expect here? Do the experienced wheel builders here think these wheels will be noodles or ride like crap?
Goldix R240 21 spoke hubs: 264g/$120
Pilar Wing spokes+nipples: 180.6g + 16.8g / $55.17 for 60
50mm Deerobust hooked tubeless rims: 800g / $428.64
So total weight would be approx 1261.4g and cost would be $602.81.
This seems almost too good to be true. I know there is going to be some error in weights. I know my spoke weights will change depending on length. But I also know campy’s WTO 60mm wheels are under 1400g and are a very similar spec in all regards—so this quoted weight is not completely unfathomable.
But still, what are some pitfalls I should expect here? Do the experienced wheel builders here think these wheels will be noodles or ride like crap?
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- Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2021 12:01 pm
I have an enve wheel with straight pull spokes. They are cx-ray. The wheel flexes to much. I want to rebuild the wheel with normal staight pull DB. 2.0-1.8 spokes.
Can i order the exact same length or should i add, maybe 1mm. Ive never build a wheel with cx-ray and dont know if they stretch a lttle or not.
Can i order the exact same length or should i add, maybe 1mm. Ive never build a wheel with cx-ray and dont know if they stretch a lttle or not.
Last edited by purplecu22 on Mon Apr 08, 2024 4:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I know carbon rim makers say no straight gauge spokes with their rims. But?
Double butted on the drive side and straight gauge on the non-drive side work. I have a reusable spoke locking compound i can put on the non-drive side.
Has anyone built a wheel like this. Im looking for maxium lateral stuffnes and being able to use with a heavier ride.
The hubs are dt 240 and enve 25mm shallow rim. I cant change these two things.
Double butted on the drive side and straight gauge on the non-drive side work. I have a reusable spoke locking compound i can put on the non-drive side.
Has anyone built a wheel like this. Im looking for maxium lateral stuffnes and being able to use with a heavier ride.
The hubs are dt 240 and enve 25mm shallow rim. I cant change these two things.
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- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2024 8:26 pm
I am building a pair of carbon wheels with following components :
- Nextie CRX 45mm carbon rims
- Dt Swiss 240's straightpull rimbrake hubs (2013 or 2014 model sourced from a paire of DT RC38T wheels)
- Sapim CX Ray
Front wheel is finished average spoke tension is 104kgF (min 102kgF max 105kgF). Is it enough ? I'm not sure going higher would be beneficial for a front road wheel (I'm 68kg).
Rear wheel is almost done (need some touch up) but I'm surpised of how much of a tension difference there is between drive side and non drive side.
Drive side : 125kgF average (min 120 max 130)
Non Drive side : 50kgF (min 45 max 55)
At lower spoke tension my tensiometer is less precise. I can homogenise non drive a bit more and get every spokes around 50kgF. However it still seems very LOW. It seems DT Swiss 240 geometry is not that good, according to spocalc IO for 130kg drive side I would end at 62kg non drive side (0.48 ratio), but my NDS tension is even lower than that ratio.
Is it an issue for wheel durability to have such low non drive side tension ? My wheel is centered within 0.1mm, rim can't take up to 130kgF so I can't tension the drive side any further nor change dishing. If I'm not mistaken I can't do anything else but homogenise non drive side tension a bit more and live with it ? I'm thinking of adding Loctite 220 to NDS to prevent spokes from loosening.
I use Unior 1752/2 and Unior tension app, tensiometer appears to be calibrated (it is delivered with a steel rod for calibration) so tension value even if not perfect can't be way off. Spokes length seems fine (not that it would change tension anyway).
Thanks for your help !
- Nextie CRX 45mm carbon rims
- Dt Swiss 240's straightpull rimbrake hubs (2013 or 2014 model sourced from a paire of DT RC38T wheels)
- Sapim CX Ray
Front wheel is finished average spoke tension is 104kgF (min 102kgF max 105kgF). Is it enough ? I'm not sure going higher would be beneficial for a front road wheel (I'm 68kg).
Rear wheel is almost done (need some touch up) but I'm surpised of how much of a tension difference there is between drive side and non drive side.
Drive side : 125kgF average (min 120 max 130)
Non Drive side : 50kgF (min 45 max 55)
At lower spoke tension my tensiometer is less precise. I can homogenise non drive a bit more and get every spokes around 50kgF. However it still seems very LOW. It seems DT Swiss 240 geometry is not that good, according to spocalc IO for 130kg drive side I would end at 62kg non drive side (0.48 ratio), but my NDS tension is even lower than that ratio.
Is it an issue for wheel durability to have such low non drive side tension ? My wheel is centered within 0.1mm, rim can't take up to 130kgF so I can't tension the drive side any further nor change dishing. If I'm not mistaken I can't do anything else but homogenise non drive side tension a bit more and live with it ? I'm thinking of adding Loctite 220 to NDS to prevent spokes from loosening.
I use Unior 1752/2 and Unior tension app, tensiometer appears to be calibrated (it is delivered with a steel rod for calibration) so tension value even if not perfect can't be way off. Spokes length seems fine (not that it would change tension anyway).
Thanks for your help !
- wheelbuilder
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- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
You can have really low nds tension and be ok, but they will tend to loosen a few times and then settle if the rest of the build is sound.
Edited for re-write of additional methods. Check back in a few.
Edited for re-write of additional methods. Check back in a few.
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