The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Hi guys-
Currently trying to figure out where I went wrong with my latest wheel build.
I am getting brake rub when pedaling moderately out of the saddle on the bottom of my DS pedal stroke. I can also generate brake rub when going around right-hand turns at a decent speed. I've never had an issue like this on any of my wheels and I generally run the pad very close to the rim.
Specs:
Rims: Velocity Quill 28/28
Hubs: White Industries T11 F/R
Spokes: Sapim D-Lite 2-Cross F/R
Nipples: Brass
Body Weight: 165 lbs
Did I choose the wrong spokes for the rear wheel? Thanks in advance for any help!
-Josh
Currently trying to figure out where I went wrong with my latest wheel build.
I am getting brake rub when pedaling moderately out of the saddle on the bottom of my DS pedal stroke. I can also generate brake rub when going around right-hand turns at a decent speed. I've never had an issue like this on any of my wheels and I generally run the pad very close to the rim.
Specs:
Rims: Velocity Quill 28/28
Hubs: White Industries T11 F/R
Spokes: Sapim D-Lite 2-Cross F/R
Nipples: Brass
Body Weight: 165 lbs
Did I choose the wrong spokes for the rear wheel? Thanks in advance for any help!
-Josh
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Can anyone recommend a UK supplier for Sapim cx-sprint spokes, black, straightpull, for length under 270mm?
Cx-rays no such problem.
They appear to exist, but not one shop has them. Maybe the cx-ray is stiff enough for anyone at those lengths so there's no demand?
Cx-rays no such problem.
They appear to exist, but not one shop has them. Maybe the cx-ray is stiff enough for anyone at those lengths so there's no demand?
- ultimobici
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You won’t find them in stock anywhere. They are special order only.wooger wrote:Can anyone recommend a UK supplier for Sapim cx-sprint spokes, black, straightpull, for length under 270mm?
Cx-rays no such problem.
They appear to exist, but not one shop has them. Maybe the cx-ray is stiff enough for anyone at those lengths so there's no demand?
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Hi all,
I'm pondering spoke selection for my wife's mtb wheels that I'm building.
Hubs: dt swiss 350 6 bolt, boost (110, 148), 28h
Rims: carbonbeam 30mm ID, 20mm height, 3mm spoke hole offset, carbon, 28h
Bike: carbonda fm1001 with 140/135mm travel
Rider weighs 57kg and doesn't ride super aggressively.
I've built wheelsets with cx-ray and cx-sprint combos in the past for myself (cx, gravel and road, I'm 2m and 90kg), with good durability, stiffness and trueness. I also built my first wheelset with d-lights, 28 spokes, for my commuter. All wheels are true and holding up fine.
With my wife's light weight and shallow (ie less stiff) rim, I'm wondering whether I should build with sapim d-light spokes (1.65mm min), or even go for the laser. Or would the thin spokes and shallow rim be too soft?
Any recommendations are welcome!
I'm pondering spoke selection for my wife's mtb wheels that I'm building.
Hubs: dt swiss 350 6 bolt, boost (110, 148), 28h
Rims: carbonbeam 30mm ID, 20mm height, 3mm spoke hole offset, carbon, 28h
Bike: carbonda fm1001 with 140/135mm travel
Rider weighs 57kg and doesn't ride super aggressively.
I've built wheelsets with cx-ray and cx-sprint combos in the past for myself (cx, gravel and road, I'm 2m and 90kg), with good durability, stiffness and trueness. I also built my first wheelset with d-lights, 28 spokes, for my commuter. All wheels are true and holding up fine.
With my wife's light weight and shallow (ie less stiff) rim, I'm wondering whether I should build with sapim d-light spokes (1.65mm min), or even go for the laser. Or would the thin spokes and shallow rim be too soft?
Any recommendations are welcome!
----
No longer in the industry
No longer in the industry
Hello
I am looking at building a budget gravel wheelset 28H spoke count, straight pull, centrelock. I have come down to two hub options either Bitex or Goldix. The latter being half the price. I already have a set of Bitex road hubs that have performed flawlessly so was thinking of perhaps rather testing out a set of the Goldix M180 Mtb hubs. Anyone have any real life experience with these.
cheers
I am looking at building a budget gravel wheelset 28H spoke count, straight pull, centrelock. I have come down to two hub options either Bitex or Goldix. The latter being half the price. I already have a set of Bitex road hubs that have performed flawlessly so was thinking of perhaps rather testing out a set of the Goldix M180 Mtb hubs. Anyone have any real life experience with these.
cheers
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Just out of curiosity, why do you want to ride hubs as cheap as that? Personally I would always choose quality hubs. If they are crap, and you need to replace them, you probably wont be able to reuse the spokes either. Hubs are the only component in a wheel, where I wouldn't compromise.warickwrx wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 6:23 amHello
I am looking at building a budget gravel wheelset 28H spoke count, straight pull, centrelock. I have come down to two hub options either Bitex or Goldix. The latter being half the price. I already have a set of Bitex road hubs that have performed flawlessly so was thinking of perhaps rather testing out a set of the Goldix M180 Mtb hubs. Anyone have any real life experience with these.
cheers
Good Question ! I hear what you are saying. Suppose its a case of trying to find better value for money.jesper2913 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 9:01 pmJust out of curiosity, why do you want to ride hubs as cheap as that? Personally I would always choose quality hubs. If they are crap, and you need to replace them, you probably wont be able to reuse the spokes either. Hubs are the only component in a wheel, where I wouldn't compromise.warickwrx wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 6:23 amHello
I am looking at building a budget gravel wheelset 28H spoke count, straight pull, centrelock. I have come down to two hub options either Bitex or Goldix. The latter being half the price. I already have a set of Bitex road hubs that have performed flawlessly so was thinking of perhaps rather testing out a set of the Goldix M180 Mtb hubs. Anyone have any real life experience with these.
cheers
-
- Posts: 272
- Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2019 5:15 pm
Fair enough, that makes sense. What kind of weather do you have in your region? Would be curious to know if they will stand up to foul, wet and cold weather.
Good weather most of the time. If it is foul normally choose to ride inside.jesper2913 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2023 5:59 pmFair enough, that makes sense. What kind of weather do you have in your region? Would be curious to know if they will stand up to foul, wet and cold weather.
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- Posts: 272
- Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2019 5:15 pm
Hey folks.
I'm planning to build two new disc brake wheelsets for my Ti gravel/bikepacking bike (Light Bicycle rims, WR38 and WR35 650b).
There's one thing that got me thinking but couldn't find a good answer for.
It's relatively common to use stronger spokes on DS for rear wheel (my plan was CX Ray + CX Sprint on WR38 and D-Light + Race on WR35 650b). But what about the front wheel? The logic should be the same for front wheel; NDS spokes on front wheel are shorter and the tension on NDS will end up much higher than DS since they need to pull the rim to center. I haven't seen examples where front wheel NDS spokes used are stronger/different than DS. I was thinking whether it makes sense to do the same there (CX Sprint/Race for NDS while using CX Ray/D-Light for DS) but didn't find any practical examples of people doing it.
WR38: 24h/28h, Hope Pro5 (fast gravel, all season road)
WR35 650b: 28h/32h, Hope Pro 5 (gnarly gravel, bikepacking, touring with luggage)
Thanks!
I'm planning to build two new disc brake wheelsets for my Ti gravel/bikepacking bike (Light Bicycle rims, WR38 and WR35 650b).
There's one thing that got me thinking but couldn't find a good answer for.
It's relatively common to use stronger spokes on DS for rear wheel (my plan was CX Ray + CX Sprint on WR38 and D-Light + Race on WR35 650b). But what about the front wheel? The logic should be the same for front wheel; NDS spokes on front wheel are shorter and the tension on NDS will end up much higher than DS since they need to pull the rim to center. I haven't seen examples where front wheel NDS spokes used are stronger/different than DS. I was thinking whether it makes sense to do the same there (CX Sprint/Race for NDS while using CX Ray/D-Light for DS) but didn't find any practical examples of people doing it.
WR38: 24h/28h, Hope Pro5 (fast gravel, all season road)
WR35 650b: 28h/32h, Hope Pro 5 (gnarly gravel, bikepacking, touring with luggage)
Thanks!
I've built with cx sprint on the brake side on the front wheel, cx ray right side. Worked well. 24 spokes, 90kg rider, cx use, light bicycle wr35 rim. On the rear I used cx sprint on the DS and CX Ray on NDS.
Cheers
Cheers
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No longer in the industry
No longer in the industry
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