The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:32 pm
Hello!
Last year I've laced my first wheel, and used it for a while with no problems, but I just looked at some wheel building material and realized I made a mistake. I read it is advised to have the trailing spokes heads out, and the leading spokes heads in, and I managed to consistently do it the other way around. You see I knew this is something to consider, but probably got the wrong way around when I started, and then followed it up consistently. The wheel has been trued by a local bike shop, and they supposed to have checked the spoke tensions as well. However there is not a lot of milage in the wheels due to my lazyness last year.
Question:
-is it okay if I leave it like this? does this have a big effect on the longevity of the wheel?
-if I decide to rebuild the wheels, is it okay to reuse all the parts?
My wheels are made out of Novatec 791/792 hubs, DT 2-1,8-2 spokes, DT brass nipples and DT G540db rims (aluminium).
Last year I've laced my first wheel, and used it for a while with no problems, but I just looked at some wheel building material and realized I made a mistake. I read it is advised to have the trailing spokes heads out, and the leading spokes heads in, and I managed to consistently do it the other way around. You see I knew this is something to consider, but probably got the wrong way around when I started, and then followed it up consistently. The wheel has been trued by a local bike shop, and they supposed to have checked the spoke tensions as well. However there is not a lot of milage in the wheels due to my lazyness last year.
Question:
-is it okay if I leave it like this? does this have a big effect on the longevity of the wheel?
-if I decide to rebuild the wheels, is it okay to reuse all the parts?
My wheels are made out of Novatec 791/792 hubs, DT 2-1,8-2 spokes, DT brass nipples and DT G540db rims (aluminium).
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Hi there!
I am new to this but really enjoying the content. Recently I got into customizing my new Cinelli gravel build. It was lot of fun and definitly more exiting than buying my stock Ultimate three years ago. Anyways, after getting all the parts together I want to finish the build with an appropiate wheelset. So I got a few questions to which I could not yet find answers. I hope you could help me out!
My plan is to use Light Bicycle AR rims (I have a max. tire clearance of 40mm so this should be the perfect fit), Hope Pro 5 hubs and Sapim double squared nipples.
1. Should I do 24 two-cross front and rear with Sapim XC-Ray? Or the same setup with Sapim CX-Sprint on the RDS? Or should I use CX-Sprint only in the first place for more stability if I go for 24 only? Or should I just step up to 28 anyway? two- or three-cross then? I am 75 kg and would eventually do moderate bikepacking and mostly ride non-technical terrain as I am limited to 40mm.
2. The ERD for Light Bicycle rims is stated without the nipple head? Could someone tell me how long the double squared nipple head is so I can do the correct calculation? That would save me a lot of trouble and I could just order the right lenght spokes right away.
3. I read a lot about it but wanted to ask nevertheless: Can I use generic bearing grease for the spoke threads?
I would really appreciate your help! Amazing community
I am new to this but really enjoying the content. Recently I got into customizing my new Cinelli gravel build. It was lot of fun and definitly more exiting than buying my stock Ultimate three years ago. Anyways, after getting all the parts together I want to finish the build with an appropiate wheelset. So I got a few questions to which I could not yet find answers. I hope you could help me out!
My plan is to use Light Bicycle AR rims (I have a max. tire clearance of 40mm so this should be the perfect fit), Hope Pro 5 hubs and Sapim double squared nipples.
1. Should I do 24 two-cross front and rear with Sapim XC-Ray? Or the same setup with Sapim CX-Sprint on the RDS? Or should I use CX-Sprint only in the first place for more stability if I go for 24 only? Or should I just step up to 28 anyway? two- or three-cross then? I am 75 kg and would eventually do moderate bikepacking and mostly ride non-technical terrain as I am limited to 40mm.
2. The ERD for Light Bicycle rims is stated without the nipple head? Could someone tell me how long the double squared nipple head is so I can do the correct calculation? That would save me a lot of trouble and I could just order the right lenght spokes right away.
3. I read a lot about it but wanted to ask nevertheless: Can I use generic bearing grease for the spoke threads?
I would really appreciate your help! Amazing community
TwiggyForest wrote: ↑Fri Apr 28, 2023 1:47 amA question on stress relieving wheels after major truing, what is everyone's preferred method?
I've seen and read a lot of conflicting information. Also, there seems to be a lot of confusion between whether the stress relieving is to even spoke tension and undo wind up or to increase tension into the plastic deformation range for the spoke to make for less fatigue cycles.
Method 1 - place the wheel hub side down and press your weight at 9 and 3 o'clock, then turn 1/8th and repeat until gone fully around the rim on both sides. I can see how this would detension spokes on the bottom side and potentially undo windup, I can't see this working to increase the spoke tension on the top side to the plastic range. Also there is a danger of tacoing the wheel.
Method 2 - grab parallel pairs of spokes and squeeze hard. I can see how this would significantly raise tension into the plastic range. Also I guess there is potential to detension the adjacent spokes and undo any windup.
Method 3 - Park Tool suggests riding the wheel. Makes sense but would be extremely impractical to do to relieve to the point where you no longer get any pings on the first ride.
Is there a better / preferred method?
You can use method 1 but without sending the stress through the hub. Get a roll of tape like this and place the hub inside with the spokes resting on the tape. Then proceed with method 1
Giant TCR Adv Pro Disc '17 · BH Lynx Race Evo '19 · Seraph GR029 '21 · Canyon Inflite AL '14
CX-Ray should be fine. You can write to Light-Bicycle if you want to know about spoke lengths and so on, they are happy to help you with the calculationsperipher wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 4:04 pmHi there!
I am new to this but really enjoying the content. Recently I got into customizing my new Cinelli gravel build. It was lot of fun and definitly more exiting than buying my stock Ultimate three years ago. Anyways, after getting all the parts together I want to finish the build with an appropiate wheelset. So I got a few questions to which I could not yet find answers. I hope you could help me out!
My plan is to use Light Bicycle AR rims (I have a max. tire clearance of 40mm so this should be the perfect fit), Hope Pro 5 hubs and Sapim double squared nipples.
1. Should I do 24 two-cross front and rear with Sapim XC-Ray? Or the same setup with Sapim CX-Sprint on the RDS? Or should I use CX-Sprint only in the first place for more stability if I go for 24 only? Or should I just step up to 28 anyway? two- or three-cross then? I am 75 kg and would eventually do moderate bikepacking and mostly ride non-technical terrain as I am limited to 40mm.
2. The ERD for Light Bicycle rims is stated without the nipple head? Could someone tell me how long the double squared nipple head is so I can do the correct calculation? That would save me a lot of trouble and I could just order the right lenght spokes right away.
3. I read a lot about it but wanted to ask nevertheless: Can I use generic bearing grease for the spoke threads?
I would really appreciate your help! Amazing community
Better to use a very light grease or oil that you can easily wipe off after the build process
Giant TCR Adv Pro Disc '17 · BH Lynx Race Evo '19 · Seraph GR029 '21 · Canyon Inflite AL '14
So 24 2x with CX-Ray is sufficient you mean? Thanks!Aeo wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 4:44 pmCX-Ray should be fine. You can write to Light-Bicycle if you want to know about spoke lengths and so on, they are happy to help you with the calculationsperipher wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 4:04 pmHi there!
I am new to this but really enjoying the content. Recently I got into customizing my new Cinelli gravel build. It was lot of fun and definitly more exiting than buying my stock Ultimate three years ago. Anyways, after getting all the parts together I want to finish the build with an appropiate wheelset. So I got a few questions to which I could not yet find answers. I hope you could help me out!
My plan is to use Light Bicycle AR rims (I have a max. tire clearance of 40mm so this should be the perfect fit), Hope Pro 5 hubs and Sapim double squared nipples.
1. Should I do 24 two-cross front and rear with Sapim XC-Ray? Or the same setup with Sapim CX-Sprint on the RDS? Or should I use CX-Sprint only in the first place for more stability if I go for 24 only? Or should I just step up to 28 anyway? two- or three-cross then? I am 75 kg and would eventually do moderate bikepacking and mostly ride non-technical terrain as I am limited to 40mm.
2. The ERD for Light Bicycle rims is stated without the nipple head? Could someone tell me how long the double squared nipple head is so I can do the correct calculation? That would save me a lot of trouble and I could just order the right lenght spokes right away.
3. I read a lot about it but wanted to ask nevertheless: Can I use generic bearing grease for the spoke threads?
I would really appreciate your help! Amazing community
Better to use a very light grease or oil that you can easily wipe off after the build process
I did contact them already but I think there is a little language barrier I think and they just responded that the Double Square have an overall16mm thread... But I just tried again to make it more clear. Meanwhile I thought I might ask you guys.
Many thanks!
I'd suggest 28h front And rear. Especially since you plan on f some bike packing too. @81kg myself im on 28h for all my wheels (except for 1 set of RSL51). You'll be happier with 1 durable wheelset that stays true even with a bit of off-road abuse (more braking force then on the road) as well as stronger for some load carrying ability.peripher wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 4:04 pmHi there!
I am new to this but really enjoying the content. Recently I got into customizing my new Cinelli gravel build. It was lot of fun and definitly more exiting than buying my stock Ultimate three years ago. Anyways, after getting all the parts together I want to finish the build with an appropiate wheelset. So I got a few questions to which I could not yet find answers. I hope you could help me out!
My plan is to use Light Bicycle AR rims (I have a max. tire clearance of 40mm so this should be the perfect fit), Hope Pro 5 hubs and Sapim double squared nipples.
1. Should I do 24 two-cross front and rear with Sapim XC-Ray? Or the same setup with Sapim CX-Sprint on the RDS? Or should I use CX-Sprint only in the first place for more stability if I go for 24 only? Or should I just step up to 28 anyway? two- or three-cross then? I am 75 kg and would eventually do moderate bikepacking and mostly ride non-technical terrain as I am limited to 40mm.
2. The ERD for Light Bicycle rims is stated without the nipple head? Could someone tell me how long the double squared nipple head is so I can do the correct calculation? That would save me a lot of trouble and I could just order the right lenght spokes right away.
3. I read a lot about it but wanted to ask nevertheless: Can I use generic bearing grease for the spoke threads?
I would really appreciate your help! Amazing community
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 6:14 am
- Location: Guatemala & Sweden
I (my "guy") will rebuild a wheel that doesn't fit my new frame. It's MCFK 35 mm rims with a Tune Prince hub, a rearwheel. I need to exchange the hub since it pushes the 12 speed cassette into the frame.
Anyway. I have no clue about what I need, I've counted the pokes to 24 and they are straight pull. Do I need new spokes as well? What kind of hub do I need to buy?
Anyway. I have no clue about what I need, I've counted the pokes to 24 and they are straight pull. Do I need new spokes as well? What kind of hub do I need to buy?
2023 Time Alpe d'Huez 2023
2020 Bianchi Oltre XR4 *Sold
2018 Giant Propel Pro Advanced
2017 Bianchi Intrepida *Sold
2016 Verenti Technique *Sold
2020 Bianchi Oltre XR4 *Sold
2018 Giant Propel Pro Advanced
2017 Bianchi Intrepida *Sold
2016 Verenti Technique *Sold
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2021 12:01 pm
I have a set of enve 2.2 with cx-ray spokes on dt 240 wheels. Im getting brake rub. Who has rebuilt their 2.2's with DB or straight gauge 2.0 spokes. Did it help with the rear wheel flex when standing?
I was thinking 2.0 all aound. I dont care about the weight just wasnt a stiffer rear wheel. I know DB 2.0-1.8-2.0 with build a better wheel but I want the stiffness.
I was thinking 2.0 all aound. I dont care about the weight just wasnt a stiffer rear wheel. I know DB 2.0-1.8-2.0 with build a better wheel but I want the stiffness.
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- Posts: 30
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2023 11:16 pm
Are you sure that's a problem with the hub? Sounds like a frame issueSuecoGuatemalteco wrote: ↑Wed Jun 07, 2023 7:39 pmI (my "guy") will rebuild a wheel that doesn't fit my new frame. It's MCFK 35 mm rims with a Tune Prince hub, a rearwheel. I need to exchange the hub since it pushes the 12 speed cassette into the frame.
Anyway. I have no clue about what I need, I've counted the pokes to 24 and they are straight pull. Do I need new spokes as well? What kind of hub do I need to buy?
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- Posts: 30
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2023 11:16 pm
But if you decide on a new hub will need different spoke lengths likely, so just use a spoke length calculator
Hi, I'm about to purchase some 33-35mm deep replacement rims for a set of Hunt Carbon Arto wheels that one died with a pothole impact.
Hunt can supply a replacement rim, but the cost is crazy.
I've got to dismantle the rim to make sure I get the correct ERD so that I can reuse the hub & spokes as straight pull spokes are not cheap.
I've narrowed down some options and so far the three best options are Light Bicycle, Carbonal and a Nextie rim.
What is the general consensus as the best quality and customer service ?
Cheers
Hunt can supply a replacement rim, but the cost is crazy.
I've got to dismantle the rim to make sure I get the correct ERD so that I can reuse the hub & spokes as straight pull spokes are not cheap.
I've narrowed down some options and so far the three best options are Light Bicycle, Carbonal and a Nextie rim.
What is the general consensus as the best quality and customer service ?
Cheers
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2020 6:14 am
- Location: Guatemala & Sweden
I've got a new "stopper ring" for the Tune hub. Tune claims this will convert it to 12 speed. So it seems to be an issue with a bit older Tune hubs.trackflack wrote: ↑Wed Aug 02, 2023 11:30 pmAre you sure that's a problem with the hub? Sounds like a frame issueSuecoGuatemalteco wrote: ↑Wed Jun 07, 2023 7:39 pmI (my "guy") will rebuild a wheel that doesn't fit my new frame. It's MCFK 35 mm rims with a Tune Prince hub, a rearwheel. I need to exchange the hub since it pushes the 12 speed cassette into the frame.
Anyway. I have no clue about what I need, I've counted the pokes to 24 and they are straight pull. Do I need new spokes as well? What kind of hub do I need to buy?
Update: I got it this "stopper ring" replaced at the bike shop and it worked. The Tune hub can now fit a 12-speed Shimano cassette
2023 Time Alpe d'Huez 2023
2020 Bianchi Oltre XR4 *Sold
2018 Giant Propel Pro Advanced
2017 Bianchi Intrepida *Sold
2016 Verenti Technique *Sold
2020 Bianchi Oltre XR4 *Sold
2018 Giant Propel Pro Advanced
2017 Bianchi Intrepida *Sold
2016 Verenti Technique *Sold