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[LuigiG]

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[yinya]

Save your money would be my take if weight is the concern. It’s like 2 sips of water. I have 33s and 45s, no difference I can feel.


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[LuigiG]

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[Nickldn]

I have WTO 45s and can recommend them. Light enough for climbing and meaningfully aero too.

Would take them over the 33's if crosswinds are not a concern. I would prefer not to descend from high Cols on 60's.

I think that if you want ultimate light climbing wheels you need to look at tubulars (not WTOs of course), they are still the lightest type of wheels and I haven't noticed a significant RR penalty vs tubless, despite testing on the Internet saying there is.

[LuigiG]

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[Nickldn]

Took the 60 already up and down on the Stelvio and other pretty nice climbs with no problems about crosswinds and that's why I am asking about differences between 33 and 60, not considering 45.

You're a braver man than me. I was very concerned about small gusts of wind descending at 55mph in Majorca. But I can imagine how bad things could get on a bad day descending the Stelvio.

[LuigiG]

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[Nickldn]

Took the 60 already up and down on the Stelvio and other pretty nice climbs with no problems about crosswinds and that's why I am asking about differences between 33 and 60, not considering 45.

You're a braver man than me. I was very concerned about small gusts of wind descending at 55mph in Majorca. But I can imagine how bad things could get on a bad day descending the Stelvio.

@55mph even a little stone or hole on the road can be a big problem...bigger than wind...I am 75kgs and going up hill makes me happy...downhill is not attractive at all to me I would easily take an helicopter to go down and do the climb again
Man...I keep thinking about 55mph downhill...

55mph takes getting used to, confidence inspiring bike setup is quite important Roads in Majorca are good in the summer but any small gust of wind is potentially scary. I had no real issues with the 45s though, they are fairly predictable.

[LuigiG]

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[Nickldn]

I guess what I mean by a confidence inspiring bike setup is having that feeling of stability and solid steering feel at high speed.

It's about the right weight distribution and stem length to make the bike stable, yet responsive, but not twitchy. Wheels are a part of that, but the frame and steering play a pivotal role. I would go as far as saying the right frame and steering setup can help tame deep wheels misbehaving in cross winds.

[usr]

I am wondering about long climbs 10% average
Are 145 grams savings on the rims (the other components are the same) so noticeable?

Noticeable perhaps (I believe that thresholds differ widely), but it won't make you any more faster than 145g saved elsewhere. If I'd have the choice between lighter wheels and a lighter frame I'd take the lighter frame for climbing: given the same total mass, the increased inertia effect of wheel mass difference vs frame mass difference feels faster because you accelerate more at power peaks in the pedaling cycle, but, when total mass is the same (lighter wheels vs lighter frame), all that extra acceleration will be compensated 1:1 by extra deceleration in the weaker parts of the cycle. And this pulsing movement of the bike will require slightly more effort for transferring the push from bike to body than a more constant movement. Ideally, for climbing, you'd have all of the UCI mandated mass in the rims.

But this completely inverts for the decent, because at the same speed the heavier wheels would want to carry more energy into the curve than the heavier frame, requiring more watts to regain speed after you used the brakes to slow down to whatever speed felt appropriate. If you are bound by 6.8 kg and could go lower, you want the lightest wheels for descending and for technical flats, where's for climbing you'd actually want the heaviest wheels that still allow you to achieve 6.8 (but I believe that this "acceleration pulse" cost is much lower than the post-curve-acceleration cost would be so in the end you'd still want the lightest wheels, just not because they feel faster climbing)

[LuigiG]

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[usr]

uh, I'm the wrong person to ask, I ride my WTO almost exclusively at home. The "airplane bike" that gets to see all the nice mountain road is on Zondas (third set of them, so far)

[LuigiG]

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[k33z]

I think the answer is really easy. The WTO33 will not make you a lot faster, even on big climbs. Minimal gains on climbs will be lost on flats, and differences will be very marginal anyway.

If buying a new set will give you a push in motivation and emotion, just do it. We buy emotion, not measusable gains