FARSPORTS DISC CARBON WHEELSET Test & Review

[Pukutis]

Does anyone have experience of how long does it take delivery to Europe (Germany)?


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[Agent041]

Does anyone have experience of how long does it take delivery to Europe (Germany)?

For my set, from order date it took about 10 days for them to assemble and send them, and another 2 weeks till delivery (to Slovenia). My friends set was sent in 5 days.

[SilverSteve]

I have got this problem with my front RD270 hub. Original steel bearings are good, but my ones where just not press all the way in so they where binding, they where spinning but not that good when calmped with thrue axle. Simple solution was to just press bearing all the way in, it was just tiny bit that they were not pressed in and problem solved, they spin absolutely amazing now. I was lucky to have bearing press at hand it was like 2min work .

Great suggestion. Never thought to check that the bearings were fully seated. I'll give them a look.
Thanks

I had the bearings pressed and it didn't help. There is the slightest noise coming from the front hub. It's only audible if you put your ear right next to it.
Here is a video I took comparing the spin down next to a DT350 front hub on my gravel bike.

[StephenDone]

I am a fan off the responsiveness of carbon spoked wheels, also riding Cadex Ultra 50s. My biggest nerd concern at the moment is spoke alignment. The Cadex is brilliantly made and spokes are aligned with rotation of the wheel. My s6 less so - they ride very nicely and I'm generally very happy with the wheelset but the spokes have pronounced twist towards the nipple (no jokes please) which I presume is a result of the lacing process. I'm sure lots of people will dismiss this but coming from an aeronautics background my brain is visualising the stall at the fastest moving bit of the spoke. I don't know if this is something that a bit of time with a wheelbuilder could be reduced? Appreciate you said you don't care so much for aero, I'm jealous of your position on that!

When the nipples are turned to tighten the spokes, this will twist the spokes too unless the spokes are held still while the nipple is turned.
You can get a tool to hold the spokes while they are turned - google 'Bladed Spoke Holder', 'Flat Spoke Tool' and such like to get you started.
If you turn both the spoke and the nipple together, you shouldn't alter the spoke tension, so you could really tweak this yourself if you wanted.
But yes, a wheelbuilder could sort this in 5 minutes, if twisted spokes is all that needs fixing.

Edit: Unless the nipples are internal, in which case the job is a bit worse, since the tyre/inner tube/sealant/rim tape also need to be removed to get at the nipples.

[toxin]

On current carbons spokes this flat spoke tool is not neccessary and should in fact never be used because it could damage the spoke. This is why this type of carbon spoke has "two nipples". The big one is an actual nipple in the traditional sense. On most carbon spoke wheels it's internal, on Farsports it's external. The other, smaller one, is actually part of the spoke and is meant to be used exactly for the purpose of holding the spoke to prevent twisting while adjusting spoke tension with the big nipple.

If the problem really is just a building error, it should be enough to turn just the big nipple and the spoke will twist with it.

[tyoac]

This Freehub should be a direct fix for any "not engaging" issues I might have with the RD270, correct?
https://www.wheel-parts.shop/de/dt-swis ... im-rd.html

For me it was the ratchets. I got the 54T upgrade back then from Wheelsfar and it basically stopped working after 200km or so, it was simply slipping through as soon as I put the tiniest amount of power on it.
First change was switching the springs to the ones from DT Swiss which didn't help. Then I got the 18T DT Swiss ratchets from my local Craigslist and this did the trick and I could finally ride again. Ended up getting the 54T DT Swiss ratchets cause I prefer the better engagement (and sound) but basically any of them would do, 36T as well.
Freehub is still the same in my case and just fine, didn't bother any further then.

[pushpush]

Ordered Evos Nov12. Shipped Nov18, Received in CA Nov22.

They look fantastic. They arrived with wheels, bags, spoke tool, tubes, tubeless valves, and a set of spare spokes.

I'll weigh them later when I mount tires.

[resolutedj]

Hello,

Looking to build some 50 / 58 hyper wheels on wheelsfar with dt swiss 180 hubs. They have a choice of cx-ray and cx-super spokes. I can't find much info online about the cx-super spokes, but they come in at around $150 more expensive (and I believe 30g lighter?). Do they have any difference in aero profile and strength/reliability?

Thanks!

[Noeh]

I had the bearings pressed and it didn't help. There is the slightest noise coming from the front hub. It's only audible if you put your ear right next to it.
Here is a video I took comparing the spin down next to a DT350 front hub on my gravel bike.

Look up the DT swiss hub bearing service manuals (same style). Manual states bearings should be smooth with some slight resistance before thru-axle preload at 10-15NM. If not, adjust bearing in/out as needed. You cloud also press in some DT swiss bearings to compare...

Regardless, unloaded spins tests are not very indicative of rolling resistance. You are also comparing a heavier gravel tire with more innertia.

[Jmt1000]

On current carbons spokes this flat spoke tool is not neccessary and should in fact never be used because it could damage the spoke. This is why this type of carbon spoke has "two nipples". The big one is an actual nipple in the traditional sense. On most carbon spoke wheels it's internal, on Farsports it's external. The other, smaller one, is actually part of the spoke and is meant to be used exactly for the purpose of holding the spoke to prevent twisting while adjusting spoke tension with the big nipple.

If the problem really is just a building error, it should be enough to turn just the big nipple and the spoke will twist with it.

Thanks and to Stephen too, this is very helpful. I'll let you know how I get on.

[SilverSteve]

I had the bearings pressed and it didn't help. There is the slightest noise coming from the front hub. It's only audible if you put your ear right next to it.
Here is a video I took comparing the spin down next to a DT350 front hub on my gravel bike.

Look up the DT swiss hub bearing service manuals (same style). Manual states bearings should be smooth with some slight resistance before thru-axle preload at 10-15NM. If not, adjust bearing in/out as needed. You cloud also press in some DT swiss bearings to compare...

Regardless, unloaded spins tests are not very indicative of rolling resistance. You are also comparing a heavier gravel tire with more innertia.

I realize this is not an even comparison. The fact that the RD270 hub, which is torqued to 15nm, only spins a handful of rotations is troubling.

While reassembling the hub, the non-driveside end cap was hesitant to go on straight. I've reached out to Farsports. Hopefully they can help

[man1ac]

This Freehub should be a direct fix for any "not engaging" issues I might have with the RD270, correct?
https://www.wheel-parts.shop/de/dt-swis ... im-rd.html

For me it was the ratchets. I got the 54T upgrade back then from Wheelsfar and it basically stopped working after 200km or so, it was simply slipping through as soon as I put the tiniest amount of power on it.
First change was switching the springs to the ones from DT Swiss which didn't help. Then I got the 18T DT Swiss ratchets from my local Craigslist and this did the trick and I could finally ride again. Ended up getting the 54T DT Swiss ratchets cause I prefer the better engagement (and sound) but basically any of them would do, 36T as well.
Freehub is still the same in my case and just fine, didn't bother any further then.

Thanks! Could you give some part numbers so I could order like the 36T or 54T?
This maybe?
https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Upgrade-Ki ... stem-2-Stk

[tyoac]

This Freehub should be a direct fix for any "not engaging" issues I might have with the RD270, correct?
https://www.wheel-parts.shop/de/dt-swis ... im-rd.html

For me it was the ratchets. I got the 54T upgrade back then from Wheelsfar and it basically stopped working after 200km or so, it was simply slipping through as soon as I put the tiniest amount of power on it.
First change was switching the springs to the ones from DT Swiss which didn't help. Then I got the 18T DT Swiss ratchets from my local Craigslist and this did the trick and I could finally ride again. Ended up getting the 54T DT Swiss ratchets cause I prefer the better engagement (and sound) but basically any of them would do, 36T as well.
Freehub is still the same in my case and just fine, didn't bother any further then.

Thanks! Could you give some part numbers so I could order like the 36T or 54T?
This maybe?
https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Upgrade-Ki ... stem-2-Stk

Yes that's it and that would be the 54T version: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Upgrade-Ki ... stem-2-Stk
And this should work as well: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Service-Ki ... fuer-Naben

Just make sure you don't buy the EXP version of any of the kits cause those are for the DT EXP hubs and won't workt with RD270.

[resolutedj]

Finally got out on the road with my 40mm 24INT/30EXT this weeks. I’ve only managed to clock up around 50ks.

Initial thoughts:
I took the bike for a quick 7k loop to check everything was ok. Instantly experienced the freehub slipping as others have mentioned, when climbing up a steep, short climb (25%). I was concerned this was off to a bad start. On the second ride I rode steady for the first 20ks and then eased in some short burst sprints and finished on the same 25% incline. Thankfully no more slippage issues. Hoping this was just the hub bedding.

The wheels felt very stiff. I couldn’t detect any brake rub or signs of flex. Granted my legs don’t put out much over 1000w on sprints but compared to my Mavic Cosmics, these were night and day different.
In terms of compliance, set up tubeless with 28mm GP5000, I didn’t notice any harshness. I’m fortunate my local roads and very smooth. They didn’t feel as fast as my 65’s, which I was expecting but hopefully these won’t be far off.

I’m already thinking of getting a deeper set. Torn between going for the CRW’s or sticking with the Far Sports.


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Does anyone know what finish this is?

[man1ac]

This Freehub should be a direct fix for any "not engaging" issues I might have with the RD270, correct?
https://www.wheel-parts.shop/de/dt-swis ... im-rd.html

For me it was the ratchets. I got the 54T upgrade back then from Wheelsfar and it basically stopped working after 200km or so, it was simply slipping through as soon as I put the tiniest amount of power on it.
First change was switching the springs to the ones from DT Swiss which didn't help. Then I got the 18T DT Swiss ratchets from my local Craigslist and this did the trick and I could finally ride again. Ended up getting the 54T DT Swiss ratchets cause I prefer the better engagement (and sound) but basically any of them would do, 36T as well.
Freehub is still the same in my case and just fine, didn't bother any further then.

Thanks! Could you give some part numbers so I could order like the 36T or 54T?
This maybe?
https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Upgrade-Ki ... stem-2-Stk

Yes that's it and that would be the 54T version: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Upgrade-Ki ... stem-2-Stk
And this should work as well: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Service-Ki ... fuer-Naben

Just make sure you don't buy the EXP version of any of the kits cause those are for the DT EXP hubs and won't workt with RD270.

Thanks! Very helpful! Does it come with 18T standard?