Light Bicycle wheel rims?

[joss]

I really like the look of the new Turbo rims.
I already have a wheelset with WR40 rims.

Could 50mm Turbo rims feeld like my WR40 rims in the wind / crosswind?
Could I save weight AND watts with the 50mm Turbo compared to my WR40 rims?

[CJosephB]

Turbo 50 UD Matt. Not my picture, but wanted to share it, because there are not many pictures out there yet.

Curious if anybody here has one on order, looking forward to hearing your view if you have... (Not associated with light bicycle/dealer/distributor/etc...)

[nk4]

Just found this video on the Turbo 50s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRlVioB4MhU

Looks sick in glossy, and it looks like the depth fluctuates very slightly as well which I didn't see in the pictures on LB's site. My set of Turbo 65s in glossy w/ DT 240s will come in about 2-3 weeks, I will post a picture as soon as I get them.

[Mr.Gib]

Me too, but I think I might only get one rim to replace front rim of my existing (carbon spokes) WR50 set.
My risk will be pretty low as it's front rim switch only. If I don't like it, I can just re-lace WR50 rim back. If I end up liking it. I'd have to stash WR50 rim as a spare rather than selling it out because the demand for used 21 holes rim would be pretty low.

So I wouldn't save that much compare to selling WR50 carbon spokes as a complete set and get Turbo 50 (or 65) as a complete wheelset. But I'd lost significantly less money if I happen to not like the Turbo and reverting back to WR50.

I finally replaced front rim with Turbo 50. Reuse the same (carbon) spokes and hub.
Rode with Turbo 50 front and WR50 rear on the familiar short loops (2km-ish per loop, repeat 20 times to get 41km) I train on during the weekdays. This loop shape like an elongated ellipse so I face wind in every direction each loop.
The wind is relatively calm at 8 km/h or 5 mph. Yet still, I notice the total absense of steering torque from crosswind. Just last week with similar wind condition, I rode with WR50 front and rear and I can feel the steering torque a bit on certain part of the loop. The bike that used to tilt a bit on crosswind now ride pretty much straight up. So, even if I can't say if it's any more or less aero than WR50. I can definitely say it does work in reducing the effect of crosswind steering to the point I think I see no point in Turbo 40 when the Turbo 50 is already this calm and weight just 30g more. The up size to Turbo 65mm fare a significantly more weight penalty though at 90g per rim over Turbo 50mm. So I think 50mm is still the sweet spot for an all-round bike.

For reference of my aero/steering sensitivity profile. I use Cannondale SuperSix size 48, 120mm stem, bar width: 30cm top and 36cm drop. Ride solo at average power of 162 watts and result in 33.5 km/h average speed.

Any updates? Still impressed?

Nice to hear about the superior crosswind stability. This is the key criteria for my next wheelset that will be used exclusively for climbing or descending. I'm not the slightest bit concerned about aero. I wonder if the key to stability is the bulging profile as opposed to the serrated element. If it's just the bulge, then perhaps Nextie CGX. I admit that I struggle with the Turbo aesthetics - but damn the rim weight is good. I don't mind the look of the older X-flow wheels like the WR40, but they max out at 32mm, and it's heavier than the Turbo. I'll be running 32mm tires which will end up WAM around 34mm so I definitely need something wide.

[bmrk]

epoxy or clearcoat yellowing is normal, they all have some UV resistance but will eventually get some yellowing. It is much more visible over raw carbon.

I have learned to appreciate it

Dear forum members,

Bought a set of Falcon Pro 465 rim brake with the braided UD weave two years ago. I am super happy about the built quality and the looks so far. However, due to an accident I could not ride this year so far and the bike was just locked in an apartment garage and on the balcony for a small period in the old apartment. When I took it out for the first time, I noticed, that apparently the clear coat has yellowed patched. According to LB it is due to exposure humid, acid or sunny environment. Now I live in a country, where humidity for 2-3 months is an issue, but just wondering whether this would be normal. I did not notice anything so far until now and for sure it was not there in the beginning of this year.

Is that something which I have to get used to? Explaination of LB is that the braided UD weave has clear coat sometimes thicker, since the surface is not flat, which then would lead to yellowing.

Thanks for your opinions. Once again happy with the built, but surprised that the rim set I could ride maybe only 200 km max is now showing yellowish patches all over.

[toxin]

Me too, but I think I might only get one rim to replace front rim of my existing (carbon spokes) WR50 set.
My risk will be pretty low as it's front rim switch only. If I don't like it, I can just re-lace WR50 rim back. If I end up liking it. I'd have to stash WR50 rim as a spare rather than selling it out because the demand for used 21 holes rim would be pretty low.

So I wouldn't save that much compare to selling WR50 carbon spokes as a complete set and get Turbo 50 (or 65) as a complete wheelset. But I'd lost significantly less money if I happen to not like the Turbo and reverting back to WR50.

I finally replaced front rim with Turbo 50. Reuse the same (carbon) spokes and hub.
Rode with Turbo 50 front and WR50 rear on the familiar short loops (2km-ish per loop, repeat 20 times to get 41km) I train on during the weekdays. This loop shape like an elongated ellipse so I face wind in every direction each loop.
The wind is relatively calm at 8 km/h or 5 mph. Yet still, I notice the total absense of steering torque from crosswind. Just last week with similar wind condition, I rode with WR50 front and rear and I can feel the steering torque a bit on certain part of the loop. The bike that used to tilt a bit on crosswind now ride pretty much straight up. So, even if I can't say if it's any more or less aero than WR50. I can definitely say it does work in reducing the effect of crosswind steering to the point I think I see no point in Turbo 40 when the Turbo 50 is already this calm and weight just 30g more. The up size to Turbo 65mm fare a significantly more weight penalty though at 90g per rim over Turbo 50mm. So I think 50mm is still the sweet spot for an all-round bike.

For reference of my aero/steering sensitivity profile. I use Cannondale SuperSix size 48, 120mm stem, bar width: 30cm top and 36cm drop. Ride solo at average power of 162 watts and result in 33.5 km/h average speed.

Any updates? Still impressed?

Nice to hear about the superior crosswind stability. This is the key criteria for my next wheelset that will be used exclusively for climbing or descending. I'm not the slightest bit concerned about aero. I wonder if the key to stability is the bulging profile as opposed to the serrated element. If it's just the bulge, then perhaps Nextie CGX. I admit that I struggle with the Turbo aesthetics - but damn the rim weight is good. I don't mind the look of the older X-flow wheels like the WR40, but they max out at 32mm, and it's heavier than the Turbo. I'll be running 32mm tires which will end up WAM around 34mm so I definitely need something wide.

It's a bit of both. Crosswind instability is a result of positive air pressure on the rim on the wind facing side and negative pressure on the opposite side.

Now if the differential between these pressures is constant you may feel a bit of pull on the steering, but because it's constant it will still be stable. This is what conti aero 111 tyres, bulbous and wide shoulder rim profiles promote, by improving airflow attachment to the rim.

If the ratio isn't constant you get changing amounts of pull on the steering, resulting in an ustable/twitchy wheel. This happens because the pressure differential builds, increasing the pull on the steering. After it reaches a certain thereshold, the wheel momentarily stalls and the air on the wind facing side flows rapidly to the opposite side, dropping the pressure differential and reducing the pull on the steering. Then the cycle begins again.

The uneven rim profile turbulates the airflow and promotes more stable airflow from one side to the other. The consequences being better stability, reduced stall angle and a lower impact of the sailing effect. The wheel is more stable, but slower at angle.

That's why, imo, the best wheel combo would be a deep, uneven rim on the front, and a deeper, even rim at the rear.

[Mr.Gib]

Maybe once it becomes more common, we all feel very different about the appearance of rims like the LB Turbo. But for right now I think I'll risk crashing off a mountain somewhere. When they find my body and gear, at least they'll say I was riding a decent looking bike. It's important to have your priorities sorted.

Narrowed things down to WR40 Flyweight or Nextie CGX 45 (maybe CGX 35 in the front).

[wheelbuilder]

Maybe once it becomes more common, we all feel very different about the appearance of rims like the LB Turbo. But for right now I think I'll risk crashing off a mountain somewhere. When they find my body and gear, at least they'll say I was riding a decent looking bike. It's important to have your priorities sorted.

Narrowed things down to WR40 Flyweight or Nextie CGX 45 (maybe CGX 35 in the front).

The Falcon Pro x-flow series is not so crazy looking but distinctively wavy and 2mm thicker at the the spoke holes. I have them in 2 very close variations of 38 and 47 depth for rim brake. Highly recommended as they built up well and passed a very close inspection.
Edit. Didn't notice you already are considering them.

[Mr.Gib]

The Falcon Pro x-flow series is not so crazy looking but distinctively wavy and 2mm thicker at the the spoke holes. I have them in 2 very close variations of 38 and 47 depth for rim brake. Highly recommended as they built up well and passed a very close inspection.
Edit. Didn't notice you already are considering them.

Yes, based on your endorsement I was indeed considering them for a previous wheelset but went with WR38. My plan is to keep the WR38 for my winter bike and purchase another wheelset that I'll reserve for travel - so the x-Flow option is back on the menu. I could go flyweight on the rim and build with all CX Sprint. I am a believer in 28 spoke wheels but not for the X-Flow design, so hence the heavier spokes. Pretty sure I'll end up running Pirelli RS 32mm which will end up 34mm WAM on any 25mm internal option. Problem is the all the LB rims max out at around 32mm except for the Turbo. That's the one caveat I am mulling over and why Nextie CGX(34mm wide) is tempting. But Nextie doesn't offer CX Sprint or 28 spokes and I like my wheels to feel really solid.

Speaking of the Turbo, they would be a PIA to clean after a messy ride.

[wheelbuilder]

My gut says we will see more of these unusual rim side profiles in the future as I believe we will learn that despite possibly looking pretty crap they aid stability in a tangible way. I know Zipp kind of started it, but the Chinese will take the reigns in this department.

[joss]

Does anybody have experience with the LB "Speed-Hub Gen2"?
They come with steel bearings but for $30 you can upgrade to "S&S ceramic bearings". Is this upgrade worth it?
How serviceable are their hubs?

And how are their carbon spokes?

[toxin]

Ceramic bearings on bikes are never worth any money

[arran1]

Thanks for your comment. Since I broke my wrist and maybe only rode less than 150 km, I was really surprised. Despite it is merely an optical issue, I was just wondering, whether premium brands (of course at a much higher price) do not have that issue. According to LB it is not so much an issue with the UD, 3K and 12K weave, but rather due to the different clearcoat thickness applied in case of the UD braided.

epoxy or clearcoat yellowing is normal, they all have some UV resistance but will eventually get some yellowing. It is much more visible over raw carbon.

I have learned to appreciate it

Dear forum members,

Bought a set of Falcon Pro 465 rim brake with the braided UD weave two years ago. I am super happy about the built quality and the looks so far. However, due to an accident I could not ride this year so far and the bike was just locked in an apartment garage and on the balcony for a small period in the old apartment. When I took it out for the first time, I noticed, that apparently the clear coat has yellowed patched. According to LB it is due to exposure humid, acid or sunny environment. Now I live in a country, where humidity for 2-3 months is an issue, but just wondering whether this would be normal. I did not notice anything so far until now and for sure it was not there in the beginning of this year.

Is that something which I have to get used to? Explaination of LB is that the braided UD weave has clear coat sometimes thicker, since the surface is not flat, which then would lead to yellowing.

Thanks for your opinions. Once again happy with the built, but surprised that the rim set I could ride maybe only 200 km max is now showing yellowish patches all over.

[IamthePush]

Hey Everyone,

First time poster! Anyway, I ordered a set of the LB Turbo 50 rims 2-3 weeks ago. I reached out to LB just inquiring when the wheels would be built because I am using for a bike build Thanksgiving week. My order status was not changing. What I found out is demand has been very high for these wheels and they are understaffed. The wheels are actually back ordered as they ramp up. They are committed to QC. Due to the delay, I was going to cancel and order a different set of wheels from Roval. However, they were willing to move my order up due to the time constraint and were very pleasent over email. This is not my first LB wheel set and won't be my last. One of the true chinese/Eastern brands that communicate well with the US market. There have been very few pictures in this string, but will share when I get them. They are showing as being built today and should arrive in about 10 days. I ordered the 50 w/DT Swiss 240, Sapim spokes (drive side sprint), and getting holes drilled plus drain hole. No graphics and stuck with their normal out of mold finish (not glossy, not matte). Will share any more updates or answer questions as needed. I do agree that the looks are eh, but for the cost/weight hard to beat. Especially since I am a lightish rider, 50 depth is where crosswinds start to get me. Excited to see if the wavy/saw tooth profile helps as others have stated.

[MrB123]

Do LB generally do any Black Friday related discount? Had an email with 10% off Wheelsfar but not seen anything for Light Bicycle.