You mean with rim brakes? In dry conditions they're great - almost better than alu I'd say. In the wet they're hardly much worse than alu. They can squeal like *** wet or dry, though...
Bora WTO
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!

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I find them better than the old Bora 50s. They'll catch the odd gust but it's not that unsettling. The 45s are noticeably better though.
Haven't tried the 60's, but can say the 45's are really good with crosswinds and sudden gusts. There's usually a twitch on the steering in crosswinds, but nothing to be concerned about.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB 6.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Yoeleo H10 bars 7.5kg
Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Yoeleo H10 bars 7.5kg
Okay thank you; I think i ruled the 33 out for myself; still undecided if I should go for 45 or for the 60. I have the Dt swiss arc dicut 1400 62, but they are not nice regarding crosswinds and I hate the braking performance even when dry. So I was leaning towards the 45, but they are not so much lighter than the 60.
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1) No, but it's very easy...there is only one easy accesable nut that needs to be loosened

2) I'm 115 kg rider that does 1300W in sprint and never noticed any flex
Anyone who has winspace hyper and the boras and who can give side to side comparison?
Deciding between those (hyper 50 / bora wto 60) wheels.
Well - one point is the price difference - 1100 euros vs 1500 euros.
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Deciding between those (hyper 50 / bora wto 60) wheels.
Well - one point is the price difference - 1100 euros vs 1500 euros.
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To clean & reassemble, no. To replace full bearing set requires a press & removal tools.V3Rs wrote:Does one need any specialty tools to access for service both sets of wheel bearings on an Ultra?
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thanks-
I dont understand how it is that I could clean and reassemble the
bearings but not replace them without a press....
They are loose balls in a race and my logic, which has failed me frequently, tells
me that if I can remove ballsrace to clean, I could easily swap the old for new.
Unless what you mean by clean and reassemble require leaving the balls/race
in place for said cleaning?
I dont understand how it is that I could clean and reassemble the
bearings but not replace them without a press....
They are loose balls in a race and my logic, which has failed me frequently, tells
me that if I can remove ballsrace to clean, I could easily swap the old for new.
Unless what you mean by clean and reassemble require leaving the balls/race
in place for said cleaning?
Someone who owns a set (well, I ordered some, but they aren't here yet) can share, but I think the spindle bearings may be cup-cone, and the freehub body bearing a cartridge? Anyone?V3Rs wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 9:56 pmthanks-
I dont understand how it is that I could clean and reassemble the
bearings but not replace them without a press....
They are loose balls in a race and my logic, which has failed me frequently, tells
me that if I can remove ballsrace to clean, I could easily swap the old for new.
Unless what you mean by clean and reassemble require leaving the balls/race
in place for said cleaning?
Spare parts catalogue has the answers: cup and cone, fitting the same HB-HY100 CULT kit like many hubs before (rim brake WTOs have smaller bearings front, important to note considering how this thread seems to have evolved into being about both regular and ultra).
What the spare parts catalogue does not tell is how the cups can actually be replaced: if I recall, at least for earlier generation carbon hubs (aluminium flanges connected by a carbon tube), manuals considered those cups non-replaceable factory installs, whereas the same cups, in aluminium hubs, are considered routine replacements.
No idea how irreplaceable they actually were, could be anything from "some tools/procedures that work fine in aluminium hubs ruin the carbon ones and we'd rather not deal with shops trying and failing" to "no way back once the carbon is bonded", and no idea how the limits of older day carbon hubs apply to those of WTO ultras. But at least the question of cartridge vs cup+cone is answered, and the balls+cage replaceable is the good old HB-HY123 (that people like me tend to install in their zondas right before deciding that the rims have seem their share of braking, typical me)
What the spare parts catalogue does not tell is how the cups can actually be replaced: if I recall, at least for earlier generation carbon hubs (aluminium flanges connected by a carbon tube), manuals considered those cups non-replaceable factory installs, whereas the same cups, in aluminium hubs, are considered routine replacements.
No idea how irreplaceable they actually were, could be anything from "some tools/procedures that work fine in aluminium hubs ruin the carbon ones and we'd rather not deal with shops trying and failing" to "no way back once the carbon is bonded", and no idea how the limits of older day carbon hubs apply to those of WTO ultras. But at least the question of cartridge vs cup+cone is answered, and the balls+cage replaceable is the good old HB-HY123 (that people like me tend to install in their zondas right before deciding that the rims have seem their share of braking, typical me)
My question is not about cups nor cones.... it s about the ceramic balls on my Ultra's
To get to them and to remove and clean them do I need special tools? And if I can remove them without special tools for
cleaning it is obvious that I could replace them if necessary..
Anyone?
To get to them and to remove and clean them do I need special tools? And if I can remove them without special tools for
cleaning it is obvious that I could replace them if necessary..
Anyone?

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