FARSPORTS DISC CARBON WHEELSET Test & Review
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Agent041 - Shifting was perfect on this mornings ride. I used to have an intermittant issue shifting from the sporket no.8 to no.7 - this issue has now been resolved. sproket no.4 used to be "noisy" (a ticking noise could be heard). Again, this issue has disappeared. No micro adjustments made to the RD.SamA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 8:51 amIt seems to be shifting fine without any adjustments on the di2 RD whilst the bike is on the stand (didn't get a chance to take it for a ride). I shall advise once I take it for a spin.Agent041 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 7:56 amHappy to hear you fixed your issue. How many clicks of micro adjustment did you have to do on your Di2 rear derailleur in order to get perfect shifting without the ring at the back of cassette?SamA wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 3:31 amThank you so much for this info/tip. I never knew that there was a spacer at the back of the cassette. I was picturing a plastic spacer (like the ones in between the sprockets) - not a thin metal one that's glued to the cassette body. Removed this thin spacer (popped out easilt with my fingernail) - cassette wobble has disappeared.Agent041 wrote: ↑Sun May 19, 2024 3:51 pm
This issue should not be because of wheels/hub. The problem is probably in Shimano cassette. Remove the spacer in the back of the cassette, and you should be OK.
https://bettershifting.com/12-speed-dan ... cillation/
With that issue now solved, I've zero issues with my Hypers.
2023 Wilier FIlante SLR - l'elefante
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https://www.merlincycles.com/dt-swiss-r ... cpo=208601
can anyone confirm that this freehub is a straight fit on the RD270 hub? i think it was mentioned earlyer, but i can't find that again.
can anyone confirm that this freehub is a straight fit on the RD270 hub? i think it was mentioned earlyer, but i can't find that again.
Yes it should work as long as it is not the EXP version.Attermann wrote: ↑Sat Jun 15, 2024 1:10 pmhttps://www.merlincycles.com/dt-swiss-r ... cpo=208601
can anyone confirm that this freehub is a straight fit on the RD270 hub? i think it was mentioned earlyer, but i can't find that again.
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- Joined: Mon May 20, 2024 4:51 pm
I've just place an order for the RD270/45mm in 70% UD finish, even though it is heavier it looks slick. How long does it usually take for the payment to be treated. I ordered through paypal on their website.
I personally had to wait for the wheels to be assembled, so took about 2 weeks before shipment. A friend of mine got notification of shipment in about 3 days from order.EINSTEININHO wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 9:17 amI've just place an order for the RD270/45mm in 70% UD finish, even though it is heavier it looks slick. How long does it usually take for the payment to be treated. I ordered through paypal on their website.
Thank you!warickwrx wrote: ↑Sun Jun 16, 2024 5:13 amYes it should work as long as it is not the EXP version.Attermann wrote: ↑Sat Jun 15, 2024 1:10 pmhttps://www.merlincycles.com/dt-swiss-r ... cpo=208601
can anyone confirm that this freehub is a straight fit on the RD270 hub? i think it was mentioned earlyer, but i can't find that again.
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- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2024 4:51 pm
For anyone wondering. I had doubt about the authenticity of those carbon spokes DT hub. I contacted DT and they confirmed me that they were indeed making those hubs for farsports and they were authentic.
Good news but it so weird that they haven't advertise it anywhere and that you can't find any documentation on their website
Good news but it so weird that they haven't advertise it anywhere and that you can't find any documentation on their website
EINSTEININHO wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 5:10 pmFor anyone wondering. I had doubt about the authenticity of those carbon spokes DT hub. I contacted DT and they confirmed me that they were indeed making those hubs for farsports and they were authentic.
Good news but it so weird that they haven't advertise it anywhere and that you can't find any documentation on their website
It would very surprising for Farsports to mess around with non authentic products.
Hi everyone.I have a few questions and ask to help me make a choice. I most often do two types of training: group riding, or solo climbing with a large gain in altitude. What 24/30 rim depth would you recommend: 40 or 45? I see 35mm is only available in the 21/28 version.
And also, please advise me to buy 36t or 54t?Hubs RD270.
And as for bearings, I live on the Mediterranean coast and there is high humidity in the air. But it rains very rarely in winter and I try not to travel in such weather. Is it better to choose steel or ceramic?
And also, please advise me to buy 36t or 54t?Hubs RD270.
And as for bearings, I live on the Mediterranean coast and there is high humidity in the air. But it rains very rarely in winter and I try not to travel in such weather. Is it better to choose steel or ceramic?
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- Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2023 2:48 pm
The 24/30 rim is indeed available in a 35mm depth, you have to ask for it. I recently purchased a 35mm front for windy days, my main wheelset is 24/30 in a 50mm depth.Hensem wrote: ↑Sat Jun 22, 2024 1:00 pmHi everyone.I have a few questions and ask to help me make a choice. I most often do two types of training: group riding, or solo climbing with a large gain in altitude. What 24/30 rim depth would you recommend: 40 or 45? I see 35mm is only available in the 21/28 version.
And also, please advise me to buy 36t or 54t?Hubs RD270.
And as for bearings, I live on the Mediterranean coast and there is high humidity in the air. But it rains very rarely in winter and I try not to travel in such weather. Is it better to choose steel or ceramic?
The depth mostly comes down to how comfortable you are with deeper rims in crosswinds. I live in an area near the ocean with a lot of open fields and we get some very windy conditions. The 35mm is great on windy days, very solid and confidence inspiring, and doesn't feel much slower. My wife has a front 24/30 rim in a 40mm depth. The 40 front catches a touch more wind, but is still pretty stable for windy conditions and a great all around choice.
A bit of a digression:
I have to admit initially I wasn't all that happy with my 50mm set, I was getting some speed wobble on windy days on my Tarmac SL8, and they definitely catch wind gusts, which is why I ordered the 35mm front. While I was waiting for the 35 to arrive, I had to replace my front tire, and as an experiment decided to try balancing the front wheel. Surprisingly, it actually made a big difference and the speed wobble is now gone. I rode the 50 set yesterday on a pretty windy day and while it does still catch the wind, I feel much more confident in the wind now.
I don't think most bike wheels need balancing, and I haven't bothered balancing the rear, but for very light, deep wheels such as these I think it's a good idea for the front. There are other reasons you can get speed wobble, but if it's an issue I'd definitely try balancing. I used "golf weights" and stuck them to the center channel in the rim under the rim tape, added about 7 grams to the wheelset. The weights are very thin but do add a little bit of thickness to the center channel, so that's the only real downside.
To circle back, I don't think you can go wrong with either depth, if you regularly ride in windy conditions or are a light rider with a bike that has quick handling, I'd favor the 40. I'd also recommend going 5-10mm deeper on the rear wheel, as that isn't affected windy conditions nearly as much. That's also something Farsports can do for you but you have to ask.
Thanks for the detailed answer.
I think maybe they should be asked to make 40/45 like the same CRW? I live near the sea and sometimes on high-speed descents I feel a side wind. If you use 45mm at the rear, will it give more speed? Initially, I want to get the lightest possible pair, and here I have to struggle with a compromise.
Did you choose 36t or 54t and what bearings did you choose:steel or ceramic?
Since you own 35mm and 40mm, can I ask you to take a photo to see the difference?
I think maybe they should be asked to make 40/45 like the same CRW? I live near the sea and sometimes on high-speed descents I feel a side wind. If you use 45mm at the rear, will it give more speed? Initially, I want to get the lightest possible pair, and here I have to struggle with a compromise.
Did you choose 36t or 54t and what bearings did you choose:steel or ceramic?
Since you own 35mm and 40mm, can I ask you to take a photo to see the difference?
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