Anyone still have a steel bike?

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joejack951
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Location: Wilmington, DE

by joejack951

themidge wrote:
Wed Jan 23, 2019 7:05 pm
Sure, but the bars on this Bianchi are already angled such that the levers are more or less level with the tops. There are definitely going to be spacers involved with this planned threadless conversion.

I mean, tell me this frame isn't a little long and low. Look at all that seatpost and gooseneck!
There is so much wrong with that handlebar setup it is hard for me to draw any conclusions from it :)

In all seriousness, I do have to wonder how much that position has been optimized or is it simply what could be able achieved with the available components. Obviously, the drop portion of the handlebar is far from ideal. They are borderline unusable if you ask me. That bike has a pretty short head/steerer tube which means there is very likely little up and down adjustment available for the quill stem. It could be as low as possible already, limited by the butting inside of the steerer tube. My wife rides a similar size frame so I've encountered a similar problem before. The handlebar reach is also quite long. With some short and shallow modern bars set a little lower than shown, a similar position could be achieved while maintaining usable tops and drops.

If someone wanted to duplicate that exact setup with a threadless stem, then sure, they are going to need spacers. I just don't see why they'd want to.

by Weenie


thedanplasse
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Location: Massachusetts

by thedanplasse

Believe it or not, I've angled the bars down further than the previous owner had them. I ride primarily on the hoods, and rarely on the drops. Plus like I had previously stated I'm new to the sport just getting into it last spring. I bought the bike the previous fall to get outside more. So please pardon my ignorance.
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Calnago
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by Calnago

You’re not ignorant, just learning. I would hazard a guess that the frame may simply be on the small side for you. So you may be chasing something that you’ll never fully achieve with that frame.
Your saddle is tilted down, you’ve turned the bars up (presumably to get the hoods higher since you rarely ride in the drops anyway). Those bars aren’t designed to be in that position you have them and they also probably don’t play very well with Campy levers. And you’ve already got what looks to be a sizeable drop from saddle to bars as it is. Anyway, all part of the learning process.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

thedanplasse
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Location: Massachusetts

by thedanplasse

The good thing is the main reason I wanted to upgrade is to let the wife use it who's a tad shorter, but with the same inseam as me. But I'd be lying if I said it wasn't also for my enjoyment too.

I've wanted to get a larger frame because I've suspected the same thing. (Jealous of how familiar everyone is and how they can pin point everything from a single picture). I raised the saddle because I felt the frame may be a tad small. I haven't yet messed with saddle angle though. This is mostly from the previous owner's preference. (except the bars which I've already messed up apparently, lol)
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Calnago
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by Calnago

One thing that will help a lot in your learning process is to realize that raising or lowering the saddle will almost always accompany a simultaneous adjustment to the fore aft saddle position along the rails in order to maintain a nicely balanced position on the bike. For example, raising the saddle will likely require a bit of forward adjustment on the fore/aft position as well, and vice versa for lowering it... will likely require a bit of rearward adjustment. It’s a trial and error process of finding the right balance for you. But try not to let the bars play too much of a factor in your saddle position. What I mean by that is, if your bars are too close to you there will be a natural tendency to push yourself more rearward that warranted and if the bars were too far out, there would be a natural tendency for you to be pulled towards them, affecting where your optimal saddle position might otherwise be.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

thedanplasse
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2018 11:04 pm
Location: Massachusetts

by thedanplasse

I think I'll fiddle around with that tonight when I get home. I do find myself sliding towards the front of the saddle, Maybe tilting the saddle a bit up, and foreward would help. I'll also try tilting the bars down to orient the hoods better.

Thank you,
I do appreciate it.
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ianeire
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Location: Dublin, Ireland

by ianeire

You have to fix those handlebars. Rotate the bars forwards until the bottom of the drops is parallel with the ground. This will put the shifters in completely the wrong place for the time being because they are mounted much too low on the bars. Once you have the bars in position you need to unwrap the bartape as far as the shifter, loosen the shifter and move it up the bar until it's in a spot that you like, and then wrap the bars again. Ultimately you may not like it, but it's free and it's worth a try. With the bars and shifters in the correct place the drops will be easier to reach, and, trying to visualise it, maybe there will be a little less reach to the hoods.

See my bars here - ignore my shifter position as these are old style bars where the shifters mount to a specific threaded hole on the bars, so I only have one position for them.

Image

thedanplasse
Posts: 72
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Location: Massachusetts

by thedanplasse

Will do. Visualizing it seems like the bars will be tilted too far foreward, but if thats where they're supposed to be I'll give it a go. Mine don't seem to be as curved as most?
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ianeire
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Location: Dublin, Ireland

by ianeire

Agreed, but as above, you can't do the bars without subsequently moving the shifters too. If you don't do the shifters they'll be unreachable with the bars in the 'right' place. By rotating the bars the drops will be closer and easier to reach, and you have to pull back the rubber hoods to access the shifter mounting bolt, loosen, shimmy back up the bars until they're in your preferred position again, and tighten them up.

There's nothing wrong with the shape of your bars, they're just ergonomic instead of a classic D. With everything in the right place it should look similar to this pic. Your shifters are currently mounted on that first kink below the hoods.
Image

thedanplasse
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by thedanplasse

You're the man, Thanks for the visual.
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cadence90
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by cadence90

thedanplasse wrote:
Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:07 pm
Believe it or not, I've angled the bars down further than the previous owner had them. I ride primarily on the hoods, and rarely on the drops. Plus like I had previously stated I'm new to the sport just getting into it last spring. I bought the bike the previous fall to get outside more. So please pardon my ignorance.
It isn't about ignorance at all. We were all ignorant once, etc., as even very experienced posters like Calnago, etc. will happily attest.

Still, as you admit, you are just starting out, and very likely on 1) a frame that doesn't fit you ideally and 2) is a frame that you have no real vested interest in. So, again, I do not understand the desire to start swapping out the fork, stem, bars, etc. asap. To what end, right now?

The far better and forever more useful time and money investment would be spent on really sorting out the proper fit first, and then doing any aesthetic modifications, whether on this frame or a different one. You keep saying that you wouldn't be "throwing things out" with two forks, two stems, two bars, etc., but, trust us on this, there is also absolutely no point in having a parts bin full of bits that really do not fit one's needs, did cost money to acquire, do take up space, get older by the day, and have very little resale value.

Plenty of excellent advice has been proffered, and people here are very objective, generous, and helpful; this specific bicycle may need its own thread at this point, to keep the focus it is going to need as you start to implement/document the recommended changes.

EDIT:
N.B.: Keep good records of all fit/position modifications, from the starting base (i.e. as the bicycle is now) and including position component name/model/size/position/etc. It's not hard at all once you get it going, and the information going forward is of immense value as you make changes (or go back to earlier posituions.

Really it is just a simple Excel or Word chart and an image that looks like this:
Image

If you want I am more than happy to make/send one for you, using your Bianchi as the base image.
A straight-on photo, in good light, from the drive side, is all one needs. I'll send you a PM.
Last edited by cadence90 on Wed Jan 23, 2019 11:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

thedanplasse
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2018 11:04 pm
Location: Massachusetts

by thedanplasse

Worded nicely. Great points made too. Thank you. I'll have some serious thinking to do.
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Calnago
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by Calnago

Yes, re what Cadence90 says, I didn’t realize when I responded that this is the general thread for steel bikes. When you start asking questions that will illicit detailed responses you should best start a separate thread versus cluttering up this one. I love the steel bikes thread and a few deserved comments or questions are always fine and appreciated. But your specific questions are now warranting a separate thread.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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cadence90
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by cadence90

Calnago wrote:
Thu Jan 24, 2019 12:09 am
Yes, re what Cadence90 says, I didn’t realize when I responded that this is the general thread for steel bikes. When you start asking questions that will illicit detailed responses you should best start a separate thread versus cluttering up this one. I love the steel bikes thread and a few deserved comments or questions are always fine and appreciated. But your specific questions are now warranting a separate thread.
Yes, exactly.

At the risk of cluttering up this thread further (I will refrain after this): @ thedanplasse, ask if FrankieB or one of the other moderators can move all of this content into a new thread of your own, with whatever title you choose; it will then be a much easier resource for you (and those who advise you) to access in the future as those fit revisions happen while leaving this thread in its intended state.

EDIT:
N.B.: This is not at all meant as any criticism of thedanplasse's posts, etc.; only a forum suggestion.
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

by Weenie


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Ruimteaapjes
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Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:47 pm

by Ruimteaapjes

2019 is the year for travelling with some light luggage: commuting and I hope to cycle from Amsterdam to Burgundy. But first some test rides to see if it handles well enough with the extra weight. Color-matched Schindelhauer front rack with Ortlieb bags...

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