Show us your cervelo?
Moderators: maxim809, Moderator Team
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- Posts: 1457
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
Yes, same as mine before I stripped it.
28mm wide rims are the max width with a gp5000 25 nontubless ( 3mm either side at the rear )
25mm tyre on a 25mm rim will have tons of room but it won't be very aero or stable in wind.
28mm wide rims are the max width with a gp5000 25 nontubless ( 3mm either side at the rear )
25mm tyre on a 25mm rim will have tons of room but it won't be very aero or stable in wind.
Thanks! What would you recommend for what I'm looking for? I prefer a rim depth of 45 or 50.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:29 pmYes, same as mine before I stripped it.
28mm wide rims are the max width with a gp5000 25 nontubless ( 3mm either side at the rear )
25mm tyre on a 25mm rim will have tons of room but it won't be very aero or stable in wind.
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Nice set-up. I'm thinking of doing the same 1x drivetrain on my S2. Can you please share the drivetrain specs?Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:15 amSteve Curtis wrote: ↑Tue Jul 14, 2020 11:38 amNot the best picture but it will do.
Front end is now lower.
Another one of mine
RD - is it the one with a clutch? Force?
Chainring - Brand? Tooth no.?
Cassette - 10speed? 11-28?
Chain - Brand
Thanks!
Let's ride!
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- Posts: 1457
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
Why have you decided on that depth ? A shitty 40 mm rim will perform worse than a good 60mm rim in the wind.jvallido wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 12:07 amThanks! What would you recommend for what I'm looking for? I prefer a rim depth of 45 or 50.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:29 pmYes, same as mine before I stripped it.
28mm wide rims are the max width with a gp5000 25 nontubless ( 3mm either side at the rear )
25mm tyre on a 25mm rim will have tons of room but it won't be very aero or stable in wind.
Ther will also be very little weight difference in those rim depths.
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- Posts: 1457
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
gambit wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 3:34 amSteve Curtis wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:15 amNice set-up. I'm thinking of doing the same 1x drivetrain on my S2. Can you please share the drivetrain specs?Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Tue Jul 14, 2020 11:38 amNot the best picture but it will do.
Front end is now lower.
RD - is it the one with a clutch? Force?
Chainring - Brand? Tooth no.?
Cassette - 10speed? 11-28?
Chain - Brand
Thanks!
The bikes are always getting changed so they're now different from the spec in the pictures.
I tend to use 11 speed force shifters and clutch rear mech. Non clutch work ok but clutch is better.
On the red bike I currently have a sram gx mtb rear mech which I've converted to road pull ratio.
Chainring is 54t on the red bike and 52 on the black. Stone make the chainrings.
Cassettes get changed depending on what I'm doing and where I ride. Mostly 11-32 or 11-28 but sometimes an 11-25
Chains - use whatever 11 speed you like as it makes no difference.
wind is my biggest concern. it'll be my first time upgrading my wheels to so i'm not quite comfortable going with a larger rim depth. i always heard anything under 50mm would be a good all rounder. i'm willing to hear differently from you.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 8:42 amWhy have you decided on that depth ? A shitty 40 mm rim will perform worse than a good 60mm rim in the wind.jvallido wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 12:07 amThanks! What would you recommend for what I'm looking for? I prefer a rim depth of 45 or 50.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:29 pmYes, same as mine before I stripped it.
28mm wide rims are the max width with a gp5000 25 nontubless ( 3mm either side at the rear )
25mm tyre on a 25mm rim will have tons of room but it won't be very aero or stable in wind.
Ther will also be very little weight difference in those rim depths.
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- Posts: 1457
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Hampshire UK, Dublin Ireland and Geneva Switzerland.
Ok, if we take Reynolds assault at 42mm and stikes at 62mm ( all other dimensions are identical )
If you had the 42mm with 25mm gp 5000s they were pretty twitchy in the wind but if you put 23mm gp5000s on the 62mm they performed better in the wind than the shallower wheel.
Matching wheel and tyre is hugely important. A guy a know really didn't get on with 50mm wheels and thought they were death traps ( cosine from wiggle ) he used gp4000 25s which were way too wide. I lent him some 25mm gp5000s and he couldn't believe how much nicer they were and how controlled the bike was with such a simple change.
If you step that up again, the LB 56mm deep - 28mm wide with a 25mm gp5000 is a maginitude better than both.
I'm in Ireland right now and we're getting battered by 30mph winds. I've been out every day this week and I'm stunned with now nicely they perform compared to other wheels I've used.
If you had the 42mm with 25mm gp 5000s they were pretty twitchy in the wind but if you put 23mm gp5000s on the 62mm they performed better in the wind than the shallower wheel.
Matching wheel and tyre is hugely important. A guy a know really didn't get on with 50mm wheels and thought they were death traps ( cosine from wiggle ) he used gp4000 25s which were way too wide. I lent him some 25mm gp5000s and he couldn't believe how much nicer they were and how controlled the bike was with such a simple change.
If you step that up again, the LB 56mm deep - 28mm wide with a 25mm gp5000 is a maginitude better than both.
I'm in Ireland right now and we're getting battered by 30mph winds. I've been out every day this week and I'm stunned with now nicely they perform compared to other wheels I've used.
Sold. I will look into the 56mm and I want to continue using my gp 5000 25c non tubeless. Mind sharing all the specs I need to get a quote from LB? Thanks for all your help.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:18 pmOk, if we take Reynolds assault at 42mm and stikes at 62mm ( all other dimensions are identical )
If you had the 42mm with 25mm gp 5000s they were pretty twitchy in the wind but if you put 23mm gp5000s on the 62mm they performed better in the wind than the shallower wheel.
Matching wheel and tyre is hugely important. A guy a know really didn't get on with 50mm wheels and thought they were death traps ( cosine from wiggle ) he used gp4000 25s which were way too wide. I lent him some 25mm gp5000s and he couldn't believe how much nicer they were and how controlled the bike was with such a simple change.
If you step that up again, the LB 56mm deep - 28mm wide with a 25mm gp5000 is a maginitude better than both.
I'm in Ireland right now and we're getting battered by 30mph winds. I've been out every day this week and I'm stunned with now nicely they perform compared to other wheels I've used.
also, mind sharing pictures with the s2 on the LB 56mm?jvallido wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:26 pmSold. I will look into the 56mm and I want to continue using my gp 5000 25c non tubeless. Mind sharing all the specs I need to get a quote from LB? Thanks for all your help.Steve Curtis wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:18 pmOk, if we take Reynolds assault at 42mm and stikes at 62mm ( all other dimensions are identical )
If you had the 42mm with 25mm gp 5000s they were pretty twitchy in the wind but if you put 23mm gp5000s on the 62mm they performed better in the wind than the shallower wheel.
Matching wheel and tyre is hugely important. A guy a know really didn't get on with 50mm wheels and thought they were death traps ( cosine from wiggle ) he used gp4000 25s which were way too wide. I lent him some 25mm gp5000s and he couldn't believe how much nicer they were and how controlled the bike was with such a simple change.
If you step that up again, the LB 56mm deep - 28mm wide with a 25mm gp5000 is a maginitude better than both.
I'm in Ireland right now and we're getting battered by 30mph winds. I've been out every day this week and I'm stunned with now nicely they perform compared to other wheels I've used.
I'm thinking about swapping out the stock stem that comes with the Cervelo R5d, which I think is a bit ugly and a boat anchor to boot.
I'm new to Di2 cable wiring and was hoping to get some advice from those of you who aren't using the semi-internal Di2 cable wiring that comes with the Cervelo R5.
It seems like you can shove the Di2 cable into the downtube port for the rear hydraulic brake (from what I can tell based on jmfreeman's gorgeous green bike). However, what do you guys do for the rest of the cables in the front end?
The stock setup that I'm currently running includes a EW-JC130 (Y-Splitter) and EW-JC200 (in-line connector) in the stem and handlebar, which run to the bar-end Junction A box. If I swapped to a stem that can't handle internal routing, where would I stick the existing Y-Splitter and in-line connector cable (I'm having trouble understanding why the in-line connector is even necessary based on the image below...).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys.
I'm new to Di2 cable wiring and was hoping to get some advice from those of you who aren't using the semi-internal Di2 cable wiring that comes with the Cervelo R5.
It seems like you can shove the Di2 cable into the downtube port for the rear hydraulic brake (from what I can tell based on jmfreeman's gorgeous green bike). However, what do you guys do for the rest of the cables in the front end?
The stock setup that I'm currently running includes a EW-JC130 (Y-Splitter) and EW-JC200 (in-line connector) in the stem and handlebar, which run to the bar-end Junction A box. If I swapped to a stem that can't handle internal routing, where would I stick the existing Y-Splitter and in-line connector cable (I'm having trouble understanding why the in-line connector is even necessary based on the image below...).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys.
- Lord Vader
- Posts: 393
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:27 pm
- Location: Austria
Got something new today
R3 Disc Size 54.
854 g for the frame (incl. all bolts, hanger, seat post collar and plastic thingys in downtube and BB), 387 for the uncut fork (inkl. RAT dropout)
I think the frame weight is great, especially since this is considered a mid tier frame.
R3 Disc Size 54.
854 g for the frame (incl. all bolts, hanger, seat post collar and plastic thingys in downtube and BB), 387 for the uncut fork (inkl. RAT dropout)
I think the frame weight is great, especially since this is considered a mid tier frame.
Last edited by Lord Vader on Fri Feb 05, 2021 11:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Not my favourite color, but really cool frame. What's your built going to be?
Have thought about buying the R3 Disc besides my S3 Rim, but I simply like the last one too much to have two of those super bikes. As a Dutchie I find the orange R3 really great, and if I could ever get a hold on a 58cm limited frameset then I wouldn't be able to hold it I guess.
- Lord Vader
- Posts: 393
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:27 pm
- Location: Austria
From the first generation R3 SL/Bayonne onwards, I've always loved the subtle black and white colours. I was really happy when I first saw this paint scheme on the R3 disc and I've been thinking about building a disc bike for about two years now, so I really couldn't resist when I saw the frame on sale.
Build will be with mostly Ultegra Di2 (exept for cranks, will go with Rotor Aldhu) and Roval Alpinist CL hoops. The stock seatpost will be swapped for a Roval Alpinist, stem/bar will be Syntace Liteforce and Pro Vibe Carbon (not 100% decided yet)
Complete bike should come in at 7,2ish kg.
- Lord Vader
- Posts: 393
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:27 pm
- Location: Austria
Ooops double post
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