Open U.P Build and pro Vibe di2 stem tip

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sigurdstaehr
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:16 am

by sigurdstaehr

Hey guys. Just wanted to make a quick post about hov great the Open U.P. is for all types of riding and my “hack” to hide the di2 box inside the stem instead of having it hanging underneath the stem!

I decided to make a final move to discs. The used market has been going crazy where i live(Denmark) the past couple of months, so i decided it was a good time to sell my rim brake Ridley Noah SL and move to discs. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Open U.P. due to its versatility and nice looks, so when a good deal popped up, i decided to sell my other bike and buy one!
It was sitting with mediocre parts and Ultegra di2 8170, a good base for some nice tinkering and upgrades. I still have some way to go before the build is finally done, but im sure i will get it done soon and make a reasonably light and beautiful build out of it.

First, i changed it to a 1x setup for road. Its realatively flat here in Denmark so that works good for me. Secondly, i put on an inline seatpost and a new pro Vibe di2 120 stem.
The stem has a small Hole on the underside where it is possible to fit 3 di2 wires with some tinkering :-). They are tight, but not pinched by the handlebars. remember, its important to charge the battery and make sure the gears are indexed before hiding away the di2 junction box since the bars have to be dismounted for you to reach the junction again. Im planning on taking the bars off every 3 months to charge the battery.
Here are some pictures of my new bike build and the di2 hiding. I chose to keep the Shimano gears instead of moving to axs, because i like the hood shape and colours much more than the SRAM Force axs ones.

When i got it:
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Upgrading the stem/seatpost and one by setup. The RD is a RX model, so the chain is kept tight at all times.
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Lastly some Pirelli cinturato 28 tubeless tyres were fitted to make it more capable on the road. The tyres have neon green stripes near the logos which match the green details on the frame.

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The upcoming upgrades are:
Carbon cranks from Sram (so i can ditch the spider). I hope i can fit a 50t direct Mount chainring and still have enough frame clearance

Heatshrink on the di2 cables

Zipp 303s wheels because the token ones are not really my cup of tea and i’ve only heard good things about the zipp ones.
Not really concerned about the hookless design. I’ll buy a set of alloy wheels for gravel riding.

New disc rotors! Those Shimano 105 ones doesnt belong on a build of this quality. Thinking of trying some Campagnolo ones but otherwise Shimano xt is in sight.
The saddle is to get some Black leather mounted at the back in order to keep the look of black/blue.

After the upgrades im looking at around a 7.1-7.2 total weight. Bars and seatpost are already fairly light and Carbon.

Wish you all a great summer!


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cnyn
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 12:33 pm

by cnyn

Nice build! Isn't the stem quite heavy?
The seatpost has to be mounted the other way if it't the one from Open. The bolt has to point forward.
Why do you not use the internal junction box in the bar end?
I've drilled some holes in my bar at the end to get the cables through (no di2 bar) and it works perfect (seen it at ridesofjapan on YT).

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sigurdstaehr
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:16 am

by sigurdstaehr

cnyn wrote:Nice build! Isn't the stem quite heavy?
The seatpost has to be mounted the other way if it't the one from Open. The bolt has to point forward.
Why do you not use the internal junction box in the bar end?
I've drilled some holes in my bar at the end to get the cables through (no di2 bar) and it works perfect (seen it at ridesofjapan on YT).
Hi! Thanks! I haven’t noticed the seatpost clamp has to point forward, i’ll fix that as soon as possible, thanks. You are completely right about the stem being a bit heavy. It is around 145gs, so a “little” heavy, but it is 120mm -10, (an angle i really like), so i’ll try to live with the weight. I had thought about the bar end junction, but that would mean new wires and junction box, which is a little expensive i think. But it will for sure come in the future as it is much easier charging and adjusting the gears! My bar is also not for di2, but it is Carbon so im a bit hesitant to drill in it. Is your bar also Carbon and can you drill it and still be confident No cracks will start to develop?

On a side note, got the new zipp 303s last week which rides better (more stiff) and feels a little more comfortable due to them having a bigger air chamber than the outgoing token wheelset (wider internal width on zipps). Also got a Force 1 crankset and a garbaruk 48t ring for cleaner looks. I am a bit on the fence about the new chainring as it is a little noisier than the wolftooth i had before.
Best regards
Image


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cnyn
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 12:33 pm

by cnyn

Yes, my handlebar is made from carbon. You just drill two small holes at approx. 4-5 cm from the end of the bar. Really have no fear that it's cracking or sth like that.
Here is the video I've been talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
And here a video about the internal routing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnsKwLf9F8
I think he drilled the easton like I did because the holes which come from the factory are on the inner side and not at the bottom. The "old" version of the bars had no holes...
In my case I could have bought the newer version of the easton handlebar but I thought it's a waste of money to get the same handlebar just with two holes made from the factory and so far it's working brilliant.

That's my Open:
Image

I'm also thinking about getting a lighter stem (dropping some weight) but so far I'm not sure what I should buy. Maybe extalight hyper stem? Or a carbon one?
My build is at 7,5 kgs with everything (cages, pedals, wahoo) ready to go.

sigurdstaehr
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:16 am

by sigurdstaehr

cnyn wrote:Yes, my handlebar is made from carbon. You just drill two small holes at approx. 4-5 cm from the end of the bar. Really have no fear that it's cracking or sth like that.
Here is the video I've been talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cON3w1IL_7k
And here a video about the internal routing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnsKwLf9F8
I think he drilled the easton like I did because the holes which come from the factory are on the inner side and not at the bottom. The "old" version of the bars had no holes...
In my case I could have bought the newer version of the easton handlebar but I thought it's a waste of money to get the same handlebar just with two holes made from the factory and so far it's working brilliant.

That's my Open:
Image

I'm also thinking about getting a lighter stem (dropping some weight) but so far I'm not sure what I should buy. Maybe extalight hyper stem? Or a carbon one?
My build is at 7,5 kgs with everything (cages, pedals, wahoo) ready to go.
Thanks for the good tips and info! Love the ridesofjapan videos, he was actually the one who got me inspired to do an Open U.P. Build as well. I might drill the bars since it looks quite easy - but i think i’ll have to decide on a bar shape i like before drilling. So far these are fine (4za Carbon bars) but a flat one might be preferable as i enjoy testing my forearms on the tops. Very nice build you have there, is it Dura ace with an ultegra RX di2 rear derraileur you’re running? The xtr rotors are super good looking! Think i’ll have to weigh mine, but around 7kgs will be my goal on the weight side of things, even though i’m sure the fit and comfort of the frame makes it faster than a lighter weight other bike with a worse fit(for me). Is yours a medium as well?
Best regards from Denmark


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sigurdstaehr
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:16 am

by sigurdstaehr

Whoops, forgot about the stem thing. I’ve tried the extralight one, for me its a bit too light weight. It was way too flexy for my taste, although i know i pull the bars quite hard. The zipp service course SL or the zipp speed SL are the ones i found to have the best weight/stiffness ratio. If i were to get a new stem i would pick the zipp service course SL. As far as i know it is 125g in 120 -7 configuration (not super light) but i’d much rather gain comfort from the tyres or frame than a lightweight stem. The extra ~50g gained by the stiffer stem can be found in a lighter seatclamp/cutting seatpost to length and using lighter tape for the bars (Deda is often super light)
Ciao!


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cnyn
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2014 12:33 pm

by cnyn

My setup is Dura Ace Calipers+Leavers, GRX Di2 rear derailleur and easton crank. XTR rotors because of the weight :D
Yes, mine is medium size.

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sigurdstaehr
Posts: 42
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2019 9:16 am

by sigurdstaehr

Very nice - i think mine might be a bit heavier than yours then, since i run ultegra levers, derraileur (RX) and ultegra calipers
Best regards


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