Le club Time

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Jrtyoung
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:28 pm

by Jrtyoung

dialtone wrote:I don't understand why the fact that they're made from one piece is a problem, with the shape in the video I linked, the brake line can easily pass under or over the middle section, when you put the bottom bracket in you just need to get the brake line properly positioned. I did that for the Di2 cable I installed a few days ago, super easy, Hambini does it in the video as well while inserting the BB.
I’m assuming you don’t have a Disc frame?

Di2 is not the problem, but the brake hose is too fat and the rear stays that end at the bearing face won’t allow the bearing to slide through


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by Weenie


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dialtone
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2021 1:31 am

by dialtone

Jrtyoung wrote:
Sun Apr 24, 2022 4:07 am
dialtone wrote:I don't understand why the fact that they're made from one piece is a problem, with the shape in the video I linked, the brake line can easily pass under or over the middle section, when you put the bottom bracket in you just need to get the brake line properly positioned. I did that for the Di2 cable I installed a few days ago, super easy, Hambini does it in the video as well while inserting the BB.
I’m assuming you don’t have a Disc frame?

Di2 is not the problem, but the brake hose is too fat and the rear stays that end at the bearing face won’t allow the bearing to slide through
What I have doesn't matter.

Image

You are saying that the top bottom bracket in this picture is still not giving you enough space to pass the hydraulic cable? I say that's impossible unless you are using a garden hose for your brake lines. I have the lower bottom bracket in the picture and there's plenty of space under it to have the cable routing guide installed in the bike and then some, the extra space afforded by the top bottom bracket in the picture is enough for a very very fat brake hose.

EDIT: just to put further numbers... That top bottom bracket goes from the 46mm outer diameter to a bit more than 30mm, say it goes to 36mm internal diameter, if you add the space under the bottom bracket there's probably space for a minimum of 1cm which is actually about the size of a typical small garden hose.

velomane
Posts: 227
Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2004 1:44 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

by velomane

Just throwing this out here. For bottom brackets, have you looked at https://wheelsmfg.com

Kumppa
Posts: 476
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:05 am

by Kumppa


I don't have disc frame so really no clue whats the problem but maybe this video show it (+ fix)?

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Jrtyoung
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:28 pm

by Jrtyoung

Kumppa wrote:
I don't have disc frame so really no clue whats the problem but maybe this video show it (+ fix)?
The problem isn’t how deep the gap in the middle, it’s that the bearing face is fouling on the brake cable - the ADH frame isn’t designed for a single piece bearing that feeds “through” the frame, instead it’s made for a two piece where the bearing one in either side and meet in the middle.

I’ve solved the problem, but something folks might want to keep in mind when getting the disc brake version.

Photo shows the two stay arms that meet at the bearing port and the black brake cable that fouls on the bearing face as passes through Image


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Jrtyoung
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:28 pm

by Jrtyoung

Kumppa wrote:
I don't have disc frame so really no clue whats the problem but maybe this video show it (+ fix)?
Thanks Kumppa. Yes grinding back the non structural carbon is one of only two ways to get the line in. The other is a time consuming game of trying to run a guide line through to pull the hose past the fitted bearing - the ADH was designed as a rim brake frame first and retro fitted with disc later not surprised it’s tight in there, but buyer beware I guess, but I’d rather have the single piece bearing than a two piece and relying on loctite to stop bb creak


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CarlosTheJackal
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2018 4:56 pm

by CarlosTheJackal

I have an adh and I just filled away a little bit of the carbon. Fed the hambini bb through and no problem. That carbon isn't doing anything, they just didn't remove it because its time consuming and that costs money.

Another tip its to drop the bb in and angle it so it goes over the hose

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Jrtyoung
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:28 pm

by Jrtyoung

Yep, contacted Time and they sent me the dealer notice, which says must use bearings that come in either side and glue into place with Loctite 648, which means once they’re in very hard to get out without damaging the frame. Pretty rubbish solution in my opinion Image


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dialtone
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2021 1:31 am

by dialtone

Loctite 648 is a beast of a compound, I've used 641 for the hambini BB with Loctite 7649 primer (because it's bonding with carbon rather than metal) in my previous Cervelo R3 and it was great, I've not ridden the new Time bike yet but I'm expecting it will be equally great.

Catagory6
Posts: 578
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:36 am

by Catagory6

Looking at a Time frame set with the Aktiv fork.
i've seen the tech video, just wondering what the consensus is here.
i've read that its quite a bit heavier than a standard fork.
is it possible to get a Time-branded replacement fork for it?

Kumppa
Posts: 476
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:05 am

by Kumppa

Catagory6 wrote:
Thu Apr 28, 2022 4:31 am
Looking at a Time frame set with the Aktiv fork.
i've seen the tech video, just wondering what the consensus is here.
i've read that its quite a bit heavier than a standard fork.
is it possible to get a Time-branded replacement fork for it?
AdH rim brake aktiv fork is 250 g heavier than a standard fork.

A year ago the price for a new standard fork and custom paint match was 479 € + 50 €. Ended up to keep the original aktiv fork.

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Jrtyoung
Posts: 100
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:28 pm

by Jrtyoung

Kumppa wrote:
Catagory6 wrote:
Thu Apr 28, 2022 4:31 am
Looking at a Time frame set with the Aktiv fork.
i've seen the tech video, just wondering what the consensus is here.
i've read that its quite a bit heavier than a standard fork.
is it possible to get a Time-branded replacement fork for it?
AdH rim brake aktiv fork is 250 g heavier than a standard fork.

A year ago the price for a new standard fork and custom paint match was 479 € + 50 €. Ended up to keep the original aktiv fork.
Kummpa is right, activ is heavier and yes you can get replacement activ and non-activ forks (or you USED to under the old management).

I had a non activ frame and bought an activ fork for it a few years ago - have to contact Time and get it on special order.

I’ve noticed you can order replacement parts off their website now when you go to the “support tab”

I’ve got 2x Scylons one with Activ and one without, my personal opinion is the fork is only noticeable on really poor road surface and long distance (like corse bitumen) - not really necessary for 90% of the roads most people ride on


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m4k1
Posts: 193
Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:07 pm

by m4k1

Edit: shows no picture

Here is the link
https://www.rennrad-news.de/forum/attac ... g.1084157/

Nixster
Posts: 145
Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:30 pm

by Nixster

Great photos on here and as a result I’m now a bit ‘Time curious’ 😀

What’s the ride like on say an Alp d’Huez 01 rim frame? I’m on Ti currently and my priority is ride quality and comfort over speed or absolute lowest weight. Would be running Boras with 26mm measured tyres tubeless, eTap 11 groupset.

by Weenie


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MikeZ
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2022 12:53 pm

by MikeZ

for those of you that may be interested, Time bikes is having a sale :-)

https://timebicycles.us/collections/dem ... %3D.WaRjY3

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