The wheelbuilding thread

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
ultreia
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:31 pm

by ultreia

Hello, I am thinking in building a wheelset with the same rim than you 411 non asym. Bitex hubs and now I am looking for the best spokes.

Sapim CX Ray was an option but maybe Super Spoke could be enough. I am usually weight from 68-70.

Another question is to put rear 12/12 or 16/8 hub. What could be the best?

Regards

by Weenie


bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

How is a fairly narrow shallow alloy rim then built with thin spokes or even thinner going to be s robust wheel?

Can I write a sticky about triplet lacing. I don't know how many time myself and ergott have said the same thing. Triplet require special hubs which currently are not on the market. That may change, I have a post about that but also I will get rims drilled for these hubs. Triplet the way people on here lash something together offers no real advantages. If you look at a fulcrum wheel you get an idea of how it should be done.

In short with this rim build 28 spoke rear then you can use CX rays.

The wheel you are be thinking of building would climb slugishly and decend poorly due to flex.

A general point, wheel building is a skill not just in the physical aspect of buildong but also in picking the right parts. Just because your 65kg does not mean you can get away with flexy wheels.

The Mavic open pro UST is another Tim that could be used used with 28 spoke rear. The kinlin xr22t again needs a 28 spoke rear. A deeper rim like the kinlin xr31t or the Easton R90SL can be built with 24spoke rear and CX rays.

This thread is full of good advise perhaps have s good read. Or perhaps we need a sticky with wheel building theory written by myself ergott and a few others.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

miko
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2018 1:30 pm

by miko

I'm interested in triplet lacing... :)

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I'll Write a general wheel building post. I hope it gets stickied but I will not answer questions in that thread. It should be locked. The wheel building thread is for questions but this thread is not much good for reference.

alcatraz
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

biwa wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:40 am
Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking these alloy rims: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/rim ... ce/rr-411/, are they going to be strong enough? And which (stronger) spokes do you recommend for going with alloy rims?
I haven't built with dtswiss rims. If they are as good as their spokes then you should be pretty ok. I don't recommend a 24h rear though. I'd do a 28h if these were the rims I had at hand.

At 65kg you don't really have to fear carbon. Unless you ride in the rain a lot (there are many brakepads you can try). You don't only get stiffness and reliability but also wider rims which will give you comfort.

Butted spokes would match the rim by looks and be cheaper but I like aero spokes simply because they are so nice to work with. I can do 1/16 turns to dial in tension/true. Try that with a butted spoke. :lol:
Maybe dt competition or aerolites would work well. First one is cheap, second bladed+lighter.

Do you have any hubs in mind?

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Actually dt Swiss rims peaked with the RR440. The latest generation of rims does not match them for roundness or stiffness.

Personally for light I would pick a deeper stiffer rim like the Velocity Quill, Eston R90SL, Kinlin XR31T or the ambrosio P20 and use CX-rays on light hubs in 20F/24R. You'll have a more aero stiffer wheelset that will be just better and allow you to ride a bit faster.

biwa
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 8:39 pm

by biwa

alcatraz wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:50 pm
biwa wrote:
Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:40 am
Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking these alloy rims: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/rim ... ce/rr-411/, are they going to be strong enough? And which (stronger) spokes do you recommend for going with alloy rims?
I haven't built with dtswiss rims. If they are as good as their spokes then you should be pretty ok. I don't recommend a 24h rear though. I'd do a 28h if these were the rims I had at hand.

At 65kg you don't really have to fear carbon. Unless you ride in the rain a lot (there are many brakepads you can try). You don't only get stiffness and reliability but also wider rims which will give you comfort.

Butted spokes would match the rim by looks and be cheaper but I like aero spokes simply because they are so nice to work with. I can do 1/16 turns to dial in tension/true. Try that with a butted spoke. :lol:
Maybe dt competition or aerolites would work well. First one is cheap, second bladed+lighter.

Do you have any hubs in mind?
The hub choice is between DT240, Industry Nine, and White Industries. Quality wise I think they're about the same, I wonder if there is significant difference in the ease of maintenance.

When you said I didn't have to fear carbon, do you mean even clinchers will be fine for going up and down the moutains?

Multebear
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by Multebear

biwa wrote:
Thu Oct 11, 2018 6:58 am
The hub choice is between DT240, Industry Nine, and White Industries. Quality wise I think they're about the same, I wonder if there is significant difference in the ease of maintenance.

When you said I didn't have to fear carbon, do you mean even clinchers will be fine for going up and down the moutains?
I would choose DT or WI. Both are very good hubs and have proven themselves over the years to be very durable and solid. It’s a question of taste which ones you like. DT’s are easy to service, use standard bearings and the design is well known everywhere. WI have a good design as well, use standard bearings and have the titanium freehub body, which prevents grooving/notching. Both are good.

Yes, carbon rims will be fine in the mountains. No problem at all. Only older carbon wheels had problems with overheating and delaminating due to overheating. I would be carefull with latex tubes though. Latex tubes don’t cope very well with heat.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

multebear consider a sertvice pulling the freehub of on the DT hub. try replacing the rear bearings it not so easy. WI are definatley easier to dismantle fully. In europe I expect WI hubs to go up in price. WI are applying a trump surcharge due to the increase in material costs because of the tarrifs.

Also be aware the the WI industries hub will give you a latterally stiffer wheel than the DT hub in the same drilling. That should tell you which is the better hub all by itself.

Multebear
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by Multebear

bm0p700f wrote:
Thu Oct 11, 2018 2:11 pm
multebear consider a sertvice pulling the freehub of on the DT hub. try replacing the rear bearings it not so easy.
How often does that bearing need replacing? And how long will it take you to disassemble the hub in order to replace that bearing?

My DT 240 rear has been running for more than two years, and it's on my winter wheelset. It sees a lot of rain and foul weather. I bought it 2nd hand, and I have no idea, how much use it has seen with it's other owner. It's not even the black version. It's the older silver version with "240 based" written on it. In other words, it's pretty old. And it still runs smooth.

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LeDuke
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by LeDuke

FWIW, when last I checked, I had 20,000+ all season miles on a set of 240s, with the same hubshell bearings. My dad is on them now.


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yinya
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:06 pm

by yinya

I had to replace the 240 bearings above after ~18,000 km. Not destroyed but no longer smooth. Took three shops to find one with the right tool, and a heat gun to get it off.


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bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

One customer returned a DT Swiss 240 wheelset after a year. bearings shot and it was a pig to remove the ring nut. So bearing life is dependent on alot of things. It either easy and doable at home or its not. With WI it is with DT Swiss its not unless you have the tools. If the customer gets faff it comes back to me and that seems to be a fault in there minds. If a wheelset has to back to the campagnolo for maintenance then most would see that as a problem. The hub should be simple enough to service that any LBS can do it or the customer can do it at home.

Billiano
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2018 10:42 pm

by Billiano

I would like your opinion.
Which tubular wheel is better
Zipp 303
Fulcrum XLR Speed 50 Dark
Corima 32 WS+

And a tyre to be bomb proof.

Or propose me one wheel to make 35 and links with the stuff

Thank you
Bill

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by Weenie


ultreia
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2011 3:31 pm

by ultreia

Another question, what about 2x/2x on a rear wheel vs 1x/1x. Talking about 24 spokes. It seems that it could be enough 1x but I feel better with 2x.

I saw many top line alloy wheels of Shimano or Dt Swiss with radial front wheel and 2x/2x rear wheel.
Regards

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