The wheelbuilding thread

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
Marin
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Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

Looks as if they could be too long, but you won't find out until you tighten them

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

tension them spokes do that but straighten out when tensioned.

by Weenie


crbeardy
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:07 am

by crbeardy

thanks everyone for your responses. I've finished the build now so time to go riding and see if they hold up. They certainly look more normal now but i'm still not 100% convinced i've got them right.

crbeardy
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:07 am

by crbeardy

I've just built up some kinlin xr31's with cx rays and i'm having trouble with the final spoke tension. The wheels are true and spoke tensions pretty even in the 125kgf for the ds. Dish is pretty well perfect. This is my first build and the spoke tensions seem way too low by feel. I can move the spokes pretty drastically with my hands and in comparison to other wheels i have (all with different spokes) they just feel so much softer. When i mounted tyres the tension dropped by around 25kgf and the spokes seem allarmingly loose.
When building the wheel i had no trouble with spoke wind up. Is this an indication i'm not there yet with tension? Should i throw my park tm-1 in the garbage?

Thanks in advance

Marin
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

I'd go by feel and just use the TM to equalize the tension.

whosatthewheel
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by whosatthewheel

You will struggle to measure accurately CX-Ray with the Park Tool meter. You need a meter well calibrated for those... ideally the Sapim one.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

struggle the TM1 with CX-rays is useless. you wont even get a reading on the nds from what I remember. your going to be plucking spokes.

crbeardy
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:07 am

by crbeardy

Thanks everyone. Ive gone by feel and my 'gut' is much happier. Time will tell i guess. Thanks very much for the quick replies.

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F45
Posts: 873
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:08 am

by F45

Making a portable tension calibrator is super easy.

All you need is some 2x4 wood, some threaded hooks and other hardware, and a 300kg fish scale. I built one for about $80USD.

If you want to be fancy, weld up some tubular steel. But it's not necessary.

Multebear
Posts: 1065
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Quick question regarding asymmetrical rims. If you're building a discwheelset with asym. rims, as far as I understand from the below pic, on the rear wheel you need to have the fat side of the rim on the cassette side. How about front rim? Would you build it with a symmetrical rim? Or would you pic asymmetrical rim as well and place the fat side on the disc side?



Image

Marin
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Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

For disc front asym, wider side disc side, yes.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Except with dynamo disc hubs they are symmetrical.

Multebear
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by Multebear

Thanks guys.

SpartacusCZ
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:08 pm

by SpartacusCZ

Hi, i want to build carbon wheels for my Canyon endurace CF SL 9 disc. I choose a (tubeless) clinchers for a practical reasons. Hubs will be DT swiss 350 straightpull and spokes will be DT aerolite, 24/24h.
I decide between 35mm depth and 45mm depth.
actual wheels: 1810g/set, 460g/rim
a) 45mm wheels: 1585g/set, 470g/rim
b) 35mm wheels: 1530g/set, 435g/rim
How much is noticeable different weight of the rims during acceleration and "out of the saddle" ride? 45mm is moore aero for flats and 35mm is lighter for steep uphills. My training itinerary are lot of flats with steep uphills :-)

by Weenie


K4m1k4z3
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 1:33 pm

by K4m1k4z3

Same width? The weight difference is miniscule but the aero benefit will also be marginal. Honestly I doubt you could realistically perceive a difference between the two rims.

The 45s will look better though. So I'd go with those. =D

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