You have the rim thickness as 21mm. It's just asking for the thickness of the material not the depth of the whole rim. It will probably be more like 2mm. Hopefully this helpspachag wrote:bm0p700f wrote:those are the wrong lengths I get 295/297 with a ERD of 601mm assuming you will use there silly internal nipples. shorter lengths if you use other nipples.
ERD is 596mm using standard sapim nipples 292/294mm.
This is with 3x lacing. you have selected radial both sides which is a mistake and even then the length calculated are too long.
I've just done again the calculation with 3x lacing and the result is greater as you can see on the next picture. Could you help me to find my mistakes ?
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Frustration with "expert wheel builders" led to research into becoming my own expert; this thread convinced me to "do it myself!'
Rode wheels that came with bikes
Hit by car, elbow shattered, stayed away from bikes for twentyfive years, four months, some days...
Rode mountain, wheels that came with the bike
Bought factory wheels for first road build of current century, Easton EA90SL set, which rolled for ~50k miles - now hung up for backup duty
Spec WI T11 hubs, Hed C2 rims, butted spokes, request same buildup as Easton set, radial front, 3x DS, radial NDS rear
Rear won't stay tensioned or true
Rebuild rear (different mech, local), same as before, which stays true, however, rim cracks some months later
Re rim, rebuild again (different mech, same local shop) - fah builds with straight gauge spokes, won't stay tensioned or true
That's it, never again! I'll make the mistakes, in my own shop, from now on.
Thanks mostly to reading here, now believe that first build was under tensioned, second build over tensioned, third build under tensioned.
Furthermore, both sides should be 2x, NDS a more stretchy spoke.
Proper and even tension - baby bear, not too much, not too little - seems crucial.
Buy spokes, tools, nipples, build, ride, check tension and true a few times, more riding - so far, so good.
mostly smooth pavement, undulating terrain
WI T11 hubs, sapim race DS, sapim cxray NDS, brass nips, 2x
7.5 months, just under 6k miles, rollin' fine
pic to follow
But yeah, I completely dig the sentiment of personally being responsible for the wheels you ride. Besides, it's just plain fun building wheels
Rims: 38 mm carbon 25 mm outer width (clincher)
Nipples: Sapim Polyax (brass)
Hubs: Bitex RAF10/RAR9
Spokes: Sapim CX-ray
Spoke count: 20/24
For the rear wheel I'm not sure what spoke pattern to choose. Radial NDS+cross 2 DS or cross 2 all the way? Any thoughts?
for example: Sapim Race straight-pull
Which tool can help to prevent spoke winding ?
5.6g Sapim Race straight-pull non-aero
4.3g Pillar 1420 straight-pull aero
6.5g Pillar 1423 straight-pull aero
4.6g CN Aero424 straight-pull aero
6.5g CN Aero494 straight-pull aero
any other straight-pull aero spokes under $1.5 ?
Straight pull round spokes are a bit of a bitch... not much to build the first time, but to un-build once the thread gets seized in the nipple. For the first build, if the thread is well lubricated, you shouldn't need any tool to hold the spoke once it is in tension
Planning on building a track wheelset for light-ish ( 110 lbs) riders).
-Kinlin XR380 rims (20-24h)
- double butted spokes radial front
- 2 X rear ( straight gauge )
- Bitex hubs.
What's the recommended spoke tension on a track wheel ( narrow flange distance) ? Same as road ... ?
LouisN wrote:Well straight gauge are bigger, I would assume it will mâle a more robust rear wheel, mostly for starts.
Plain gauge... no, not really, unless it is a wheel for very heavy load
https://whosatthewheel.com/2017/11/12/t ... -dynamics/
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